Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)
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Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)

 

Our expedition team is moving up the mountain with expert guidance and safety. The team reached Camp 1 (5,700 m) for the first rotation yesterday, 12 October, at around 5 PM. Today, 13 October, they are pushing on to Camp 2 (6,100 m) to sleep at altitude.

 

Rope fixing team reaches the summit

 

There is more news from the mountain. The rope fixing team reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m) today, 13 October, at around 11 o’clock. The rope fixing team puts ropes on the route so that climbers can move more safely on the technical sections. Reaching the summit is an important step for everyone planning to climb Ama Dablam this season.

 

The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2

 

The way from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the technical heart of the Ama Dablam climb. The path follows a narrow rock ridge, graded fourth class, that runs sideways around a line of rock towers (climbers call them pinnacles and gendarmes). There is a big drop on both sides, so every step needs full focus. The granite here is very good: solid, with plenty of grip, and a joy to climb.

 

Just before Camp 2, the team reaches the Yellow Tower. This is about ten metres of almost vertical granite, graded French 4th class (British Severe, North American 5.5). Fixed ropes are in place, but the climb still needs real climbing skill and confident movement while carrying a pack. Above the Yellow Tower, the team reaches Camp 2 at 6,100 m.

 

Mount Ama Dablam Mount Ama Dablam Drone View
Drone View of Mt. Ama Dablam

 

Guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa

 

This expedition is guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa, founder of Alpinist Climber Expeditions. An IFMGA certificate is a high international standard for mountain guides. It means the team has a guide trained to make careful decisions about the route, the weather, and safety on a technical Himalayan peak.

 

Why the first rotation and Camp 2 matter for acclimatization

 

Ama Dablam stands in the Everest Region of Nepal, and the air gets thinner with every step up. A rotation is a trip up the mountain to sleep at a higher camp, so the body can slowly adjust. The first rotation took the team to Camp 1, and sleeping at Camp 2 is the next step. When the team is fully acclimatized, they are stronger and safer for the summit push. We never rush this step. Read more in our acclimatization guide for Himalayan peaks.

 

Ama Dablam Autumn 2026 Expedition: Trekking to Camp 1

 


 

What comes next

 

After the night at Camp 2, the team will get ready for the summit push. The plan depends on how everyone feels and on the weather. We will share more news soon.

 

Dreaming of a Himalayan peak?

 

Learn more about our Ama Dablam Expedition, or see our other peak climbing trips in Nepal. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has guided in the Himalayas since 2021, with a safety-first approach on every climb.

 

Follow us for more updates from Ama Dablam.


To plan your next expedition, message us on WhatsApp at +977 9843314253 or email info@alpinistclimberexpeditions.com.

 


 

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Nepal Visa Requirements 2026: Fees, Forms and Who Can Get a Visa on Arrival
Expedition Journal

Nepal Visa Requirements 2026: Fees, Forms and Who Can Get a Visa on Arrival

  Visa rules can change. Please open the official links in this guide before you travel.     Almost every visitor to Nepal needs a tourist visa. The main exception are citizens of India. Most travellers can get the visa when they arrive at Kathmandu airport or at an official land border, or they can apply online before they fly. A tourist visa costs US$30 for 15 days, US$50 for 30 days or US$125 for 90 days. In total, you can stay up to 150 days in one visa year (January to December).   This guide explains who needs a visa, what to bring, what it costs, where the official forms are, who gets a free visa and what to do if you need more time. It uses information from Nepal's Department of Immigration, the Nepal Tourism Board and the US State Department. Where these sources do not agree, we tell you.     Nepal visa quick facts   Question Short answer Do I need a visa? Yes, unless you are a citizen of India. Where can I get one? On arrival at listed airports and land borders, online before you travel, or from a Nepali embassy or consulate. What does it cost? US$30 (15 days), US$50 (30 days), US$125 (90 days). How long can I stay in total? Up to 150 days in one visa year (January to December), including extensions. Passport rules At least 6 months of validity after your arrival date, with a blank page for the visa stamp. How much is an extension? US$45 for the minimum 15 days, then US$3 for each extra day. Fine for staying late US$5 per day. Who gets a free visa? Children under 10 (not US citizens), first-time SAARC visitors for up to 30 days, Chinese nationals, and NRN card holders. Who cannot get a visa on arrival? Citizens of 13 countries, and people travelling on refugee travel documents. See the list below.     Who needs a visa to enter Nepal?   Every foreign visitor needs a tourist visa to enter Nepal, except citizens of India. This applies if you come to trek, climb, visit family, or just stay a few days.   If you come for another reason, such as study or work, you still enter on a tourist visa first. After you arrive, you ask the Department of Immigration to change your visa category. There is more on this in the section on other visa types.     Three ways to get a Nepal tourist visa   1. Visa on arrival Most visitors use this route. You can get a visa on arrival at Tribhuvan International Airport in Kathmandu, Pokhara International Airport, Gautam Buddha International Airport in Lumbini, and Nepal's land border entry points. Check which airport your flight lands at before you travel.   You fill in a form, pay the fee, and an immigration officer issues the visa. You can complete the form online before you travel and bring the printed receipt, or complete it at the airport. The steps are explained below.   2. Online visa (ETA or eVisa) In 2026, the Department of Immigration added an online option called the Electronic Travel Authorisation (ETA), also called an eVisa. You apply on the official website, upload your passport and photo, pay the fee online, and receive the approved visa by email. You then print it and carry it with you.   This system is new. A travel news site reported that a Department of Immigration spokesperson gave 17 August 2026 as the date for the full launch, and the Department's website now has a page for the ETA and eVisa. Reports differ on how long approval takes and on what you must show at the airport. We could not confirm one fixed approval time. Read the instructions on the official page, and apply early.   3. Visa from a Nepali embassy or consulate You can also get a tourist visa before you travel from a Nepali embassy or consulate. If you do, you must enter Nepal within six months of the day the visa was issued. Your stay is counted from the day you enter Nepal, not the day the visa was issued. Citizens of the countries in the restricted list below must use this route.     Nepal tourist visa fees in 2026   Visa length Fee 15 days US$30 30 days US$50 90 days US$125   These fees are set by the Department of Immigration. You can pay in US dollars or another convertible currency. The Nepal Tourism Board says international credit cards are accepted, and the US State Department says cards may be accepted at the airport. Card machines can fail, so bring enough US dollars in cash as a backup. If you arrive by land, see the border section below for the cash rules that apply to US citizens.   Children under 10 and some other groups get a free visa. See the section on free visas.   Is the Nepal tourist visa multiple-entry? The Nepal Tourism Board says tourist visas issued at entry points have a multiple re-entry facility, and it lists the 15, 30 and 90-day fees as multiple-entry. However, the Department of Immigration's fee table also has a separate line for an extra US$25 for multiple re-entry under tourist visas. If you plan to leave Nepal and come back during your trip, for example for a side trip to India or Bhutan, ask the officer to confirm that your visa is multiple-entry before you pay.   Which visa length should you choose? Plan for delays. The US State Department says bad weather often disrupts domestic flights in Nepal, and it advises leaving extra time before an international flight. A visa that ends close to your departure day leaves you no room.   Extending a visa costs more per day than buying a longer visa at the start, and it means a visit to an immigration office. This table compares total costs for some example stays, using the official fees. Planned stay Cheapest option Total cost 15 days or less 15-day visa US$30 30 days 30-day visa US$50 (15-day visa plus a 15-day extension would be US$75) 45 days 30-day visa plus a 15-day extension US$95 60 days 90-day visa US$125 (30-day visa plus a 30-day extension would be US$140) 90 days 90-day visa US$125   If your trip might run past 30 days, the 90-day visa is often the easier choice. You pay one fee and you do not need to go to the immigration office for an extension.     What to bring •       Passport. It must be valid for at least 6 months after your arrival date. Keep a blank page free for the visa stamp. •       Passport-size photo with a light background. The Nepal Tourism Board lists this as part of the visa requirements. The online form asks for a digital photo. •       Completed visa form. This is either your printed online receipt or the form you complete at the airport. •       Visa fee in US dollars or another convertible currency. Bring cash as well as a card. •       Travel details. The online form asks for your travel information and an address where you will stay in Nepal. •       Cash declaration, if needed. If you carry more than US$5,000 into or out of Nepal, you must declare it on a customs form.   Travel insurance is not listed as a visa document in the sources we checked. The US State Department strongly recommends it, with cover for medical evacuation, if you plan to trek or climb.     Application forms and official links   Apply only through official government websites. The Department of Immigration sets the visa fee, so you do not need to pay anyone else to submit a form for you. What Link Use it for NepaliPort (online visa services) nepaliport.immigration.gov.np The official online tourist visa form and other visa services. The Department says foreigners can apply for visas here. ETA / eVisa page immigration.gov.np/eta-visa-nepal The Department of Immigration page that explains the online ETA and eVisa. Department of Immigration immigration.gov.np Official notices, visa information and contact details. Visa fees and documents Department fee table Fees and required documents for tourist and other visa types. Countries without visa on arrival Department notice The official list of nationalities that cannot get a visa on arrival. Nepal Tourism Board Tourist visa page A plain summary of visa rules for tourists. Ministry of Foreign Affairs mofa.gov.np Find a Nepali embassy or consulate in your country. US State Department Nepal travel page Entry rules, advisories and tips for US travellers. Useful for other nationalities too.     How visa on arrival works at Kathmandu airport 1.      Fill in the form. Complete the online form before you fly and print the receipt, or complete the form at the airport. 2.      Pay the fee. Pay at the payment counter and keep the receipt. 3.      Go to the immigration desk. Give the officer your passport, your form receipt and your payment receipt. 4.      Collect your passport. The officer issues the visa and your passport is stamped.   The US State Department warns that getting a visa on arrival may take several hours. Travel guides report that queues are longest in the main trekking seasons, in spring and autumn. If you fill in the online form before you fly, several guides say the receipt is valid for only 15 days, so do not complete it too early.     Visa on arrival at land borders   You need a visa to enter Nepal by land too. The US State Department notes that officials at some crossings do not stop every foreign visitor. If you do not get an entry stamp from an immigration officer, you may not be allowed to leave Nepal later and may face other problems. Find the immigration office and complete the process, even if nobody asks you to.   The State Department lists these land border points where you can buy a tourist visa on arrival. Immigration offices at official land crossings are open 24 hours. •       Kakarvitta, Jhapa District (east) •       Biratnagar, Morang District (south-east) •       Birgunj, Parsa District (central) •       Belahiya, Bhairahawa, Rupandehi District (south) •       Gadda Chauki, Mahendranagar, Kanchanpur District (west) •       Timure, Rasuwa District (north border)   US citizens must pay land border visa fees in US cash. Cards and other currencies are not accepted. Bills must be dated 2003 or later and be in good condition, with no tears or heavy wear. Other travellers should also carry clean US dollars in cash.   Important: As of the US State Department advisory dated 4 September 2026, travellers are told not to go to the Rasuwagadhi-Timure-Syafrubesi area of Rasuwa District, including the Nepal-China border crossing, after a major flash flood and landslide on 26 August 2026. Check current conditions before planning a route through this area.     Who gets a free (gratis) visa?   Group What you get Children under 10 Free visa for all nationalities except US citizens. SAARC citizens (except Afghanistan) Free visa for up to 30 days on a first visit in a visa year. Travel guides list Bangladesh, Bhutan, the Maldives, Pakistan and Sri Lanka. A second visit in the same visa year is not covered. Chinese nationals Free tourist visa for up to 150 days in a visa year. Non-Resident Nepali (NRN) card holders Free visa. The card is issued by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs or Nepali missions abroad. Afghan citizens Free visa on arrival only if the Department of Immigration recommends it. Diplomatic and official passport holders The Department lists a free 30-day entry visa for diplomatic and official visits, with the right paperwork from the diplomatic mission.   A free visa still needs a form. You complete the same process, but the fee is zero. The "visa year" runs from January to December, so a first visit in December and another in January fall in different visa years.     Indian citizens   Citizens of India do not need a visa to enter Nepal. You must carry one of these as proof of identity when you enter and leave: •       A valid Indian passport •       An Election Commission of India voter card •       For travellers over 65: a PAN card, driving licence or ration card that shows a photo and age •       For travellers under 18: an identity card issued by the school principal   The Nepal Tourism Board says the Aadhaar (UID) card is not accepted as a travel document. A Certificate of Registration from the Embassy of India in Kathmandu is also not accepted.     Countries that cannot get a visa on arrival   The Nepal Tourism Board lists the nationalities below as having no visa on arrival. People from these countries must get a visa from a Nepali embassy or consulate before they travel. Iran was added on 13 March 2026, which raised the total to 13 countries. People travelling on refugee travel documents must also get a visa in advance. Africa Middle East Asia Cameroon Eswatini (Swaziland) Ethiopia Ghana Liberia Nigeria Somalia Zimbabwe Iran Iraq Palestine Syria Afghanistan   News reports on the Iran decision say holders of government and diplomatic passports are treated differently. If you hold an official or diplomatic passport, ask the nearest Nepali embassy what applies to you. Because this list has changed before, check the Department of Immigration notice before you book.     How to extend your Nepal tourist visa   You can extend a tourist visa inside Nepal. The Nepal Tourism Board names the Department of Immigration in Kathmandu (Kalikasthan) and the immigration office in Pokhara. The US State Department adds that offices in Kakarvitta, Birgunj and Belahiya can also extend tourist visas, but only the Kathmandu office can extend every visa type. •       Minimum extension: 15 days, for US$45. •       Each extra day after that: US$3. •       Maximum total stay: 150 days in one visa year (January to December), counting your first visa and all extensions. •       How to pay: at the Department of Immigration in cash, in Nepali rupees or US dollars, according to the US State Department.   Example: You have a 30-day visa and want 20 more days. You pay US$45 for the first 15 days, plus 5 extra days at US$3, which is US$15. The total is US$60.   Bring your passport and your current visa, and ask the office what other papers it needs. Some guides say the extension form is filled in on the NepaliPort website first, so check the portal before you go.   Extend before your visa ends. The immigration office at Tribhuvan International Airport cannot extend visas. The US State Department says travellers who reach the airport with an expired visa are sent to the Kathmandu office to pay, and this can take a couple of days. Government offices close on public holidays, so plan ahead.     What happens if you overstay?   If you stay after your visa ends, you pay a late fine of US$5 per day, on top of the extension fee. The US State Department says that staying after your visa expires can lead to large fines, arrest and a ban on returning, and that staying more than 150 days on a tourist visa can lead to deportation. A person who is deported must travel straight to their home country at their own cost.   One more rule: if you replace your passport in Kathmandu, go to the Department of Immigration to move your visa into the new passport. Do not transfer it yourself. The State Department says doing so is a crime in Nepal.   Other visa types   The tourist visa is the only entry visa. If you plan to work, study, invest or live in Nepal, you enter on a tourist visa and then apply to change the category. The US State Department advises starting at least two months before your tourist visa ends, and says non-tourist visas can take months.   Working or volunteering on a tourist visa is not allowed. The Department of Immigration treats volunteering as work. The US State Department says volunteering on a tourist visa can lead to detention, fines, expulsion and a long ban on returning. Visa type Who it is for Fee listed by the Department Transit visa Passengers changing flights in Nepal, up to 24 hours. Proof of transit, such as an air ticket, is needed. US$5 Work visa Foreign nationals with a job in Nepal. Needs a recommendation, a labour permit and a work agreement. US$30, US$50 or US$75 per month, depending on the employer Study visa Students and researchers. Needs a recommendation from the Ministry of Education. From US$30 per month (degree students). US$75 per month (non-degree) Business visa Investors and business owners. US$35 per month, US$400 per year or US$1,000 for five years for smaller investments. Lower fees apply to investments over NPR 100 million Marriage visa Foreigners married to Nepali citizens. US$15 per month Relation visa Foreigners with a direct relation, or a relation by marriage, to Nepali citizens. US$10 per month (direct relation). US$25 per month (relation by marriage) Press visa Journalists and press representatives. US$15 per month NRN visa Non-Resident Nepali card holders. Free Tourist reciprocity visa (US citizens) A 5-year visa with up to 180 days of stay per year. Needs a bank statement showing at least US$10,000, a health insurance certificate and a police report. US$160 Fees from the Department of Immigration fee table, last updated 2 January 2026. Single and multiple re-entry add-ons (US$20 and US$60) apply to most non-tourist visas. Check the Department before you apply.   A visa is not a trekking or climbing permit   Your visa lets you enter and stay in Nepal. It does not let you enter a national park or a restricted area. The US State Department says some remote areas and national parks need extra permits and fees, and that foreign trekkers must hire a licensed local guide in national parks and protected areas.   Climbing and expedition trips usually have their own permits too. Your trekking or climbing company can tell you which permits apply to your route and when to arrange them.     Common mistakes that cause trouble •       Passport with less than 6 months left. Check the expiry date before you book flights. •       A visa that is too short. Weather delays are common. Choose a few spare days. •       Relying only on a card. Card machines can fail. Carry US dollars in cash. •       Skipping the stamp at a land border. You may have trouble when you try to leave Nepal. •       Torn or old US notes at a land border. US citizens need bills dated 2003 or later in good condition. •       Waiting until the visa expires to extend. The airport cannot extend it for you. •       Filling in the online arrival form too early. Guides say the receipt is valid for 15 days. •       Working or volunteering on a tourist visa. This is not allowed.   Frequently asked questions   Do I need a visa to visit Nepal? Yes, unless you are a citizen of India. All other foreign visitors need a tourist visa. You can get it on arrival, online, or from a Nepali embassy or consulate.   How much does a Nepal visa cost in 2026? The tourist visa costs US$30 for 15 days, US$50 for 30 days and US$125 for 90 days. Children under 10 (except US citizens) and some other groups get a free visa.   Can I get a Nepal visa on arrival? Yes, at Kathmandu airport, the other airports named by the Nepal Tourism Board, and official land border points. Citizens of 13 countries and people with refugee travel documents cannot. They must get a visa from a Nepali embassy first.   Can I apply for a Nepal visa online? Yes. Use the official NepaliPort site or the Department of Immigration's ETA and eVisa page. You can also fill in the visa-on-arrival form online and bring the printed receipt.   How long can I stay in Nepal on a tourist visa? Up to 150 days in one visa year (January to December). This includes your first visa and any extensions.   How do I extend my Nepal visa? Go to the Department of Immigration in Kalikasthan, Kathmandu, or the Pokhara immigration office before your visa ends. The minimum extension is 15 days for US$45, then US$3 for each extra day.   What is the fine for overstaying? The late fine is US$5 per day on top of the extension fee. Long overstays can lead to arrest, deportation and a ban on returning, according to the US State Department.   Is the Nepal tourist visa multiple-entry? The Nepal Tourism Board lists the 15, 30 and 90-day tourist visas as multiple-entry. The Department of Immigration fee table also mentions an extra US$25 for multiple re-entry, so ask the officer to confirm before you pay if you plan to leave and return.   Does a tourist visa cover trekking or climbing? No. The visa covers entry and stay only. National parks, restricted areas and climbing routes can need separate permits. Ask your trekking or climbing company which ones you need.   Do I need a visa if I am only changing flights in Nepal? Nepal has a transit visa for up to 24 hours, listed at US$5. You need proof of transit, such as an air ticket. Check with your airline or the Department of Immigration whether your connection needs one.   Can I work or volunteer on a tourist visa? No. Nepal treats volunteering as work. You need the right non-tourist visa first.   Before you travel   Do three checks before you book. Make sure your passport has at least 6 months left after your arrival day. Choose a visa length with a few spare days. Use only the official government sites for forms and payments.   Alpinist Climber Expeditions is based in Nepal and has operated since 2021, running high-altitude mountaineering expeditions and trekking in the Nepal Himalaya. If you are planning a trek or a climb and want to talk through your dates or route, you can reach us through our website, alpinistclimberexpeditions.com.   This guide is general information, not legal or immigration advice. Always confirm current rules with the Department of Immigration or the nearest Nepali embassy or consulate.     Sources •       Nepal Tourism Board: Tourist Visa •       Department of Immigration, Nepal: Visa Fee and Documents •       Department of Immigration, Nepal: Online visa services (NepaliPort) •       Department of Immigration, Nepal: ETA / eVisa •       Department of Immigration, Nepal: Prohibition to Visa on Arrival •       US State Department: Nepal travel advisory and entry requirements •       The Himalayan Times: Nepal govt stops providing on-arrival visas to Iranian nationals, 13 March 2026 •       The Kathmandu Post: Nepal stops on-arrival visas for Iranians, 14 March 2026 •       VisasNews: Nepal to fully roll out its e-Visa system on August 17, 2026      

Oct 20, 2026 Read More →
Ama Dablam Base Camp Weather Update
Expedition Journal

Ama Dablam Base Camp Weather Update

  Good news from the Khumbu Region. The weather at Ama Dablam Base Camp has improved since this morning, and the mountain is now clearly visible.   Ama Dablam (6,812 m) is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalayas. After a few hours of changing weather, it was a great moment to see it clear and bright from camp. Weather can change fast in the Everest Region, so our team keeps checking the conditions through the day. Clear spells like this one help us plan with confidence and keep everyone safe.   Take a look at the photos below to see the view from Base Camp today.   Ama Dablam, clear and bright from Base Camp this morning.   Planning a climb in the Himalayas? Learn more about our Ama Dablam Expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions.    

Oct 11, 2026 Read More →
Manaslu 2026: A Season of Extremes — Our Full Expedition Coverage
Expedition Journal

Manaslu 2026: A Season of Extremes — Our Full Expedition Coverage

  Every climbing season on Manaslu is different. Record numbers of climbers arrived at Base Camp this autumn, hoping for a straightforward summit. What they found instead was a mountain that tested every team on it, ours included.   This article looks back at the full season: how it started, what went wrong, and why we believe the outcome, difficult as it was, was the right one.     A Record Season, and a Crowded Mountain   Manaslu is usually one of the more approachable 8,000-meter peaks, which is exactly why it drew so many climbers this year. Nepal's Department of Tourism listed close to 500 foreign climbers this season, with a similar number of local guides and support staff on the mountain, making it a record year for permits. Once the fixed ropes reached the top, that many people converging on one route created real congestion.   Climbers described long queues on the fixed ropes, especially through the crowded, icy section between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and on the narrow final ridge that leads to Manaslu's true summit, which can only hold one or two people at a time. A mountain built for small, careful teams was suddenly hosting a crowd. That combination, a narrow summit and hundreds of climbers all aiming for the same short weather window, set the stage for the difficulties that followed.   Traffic Jam in Manaslu 2026 Season     The Danger Builds: Avalanches on the Upper Slopes   Manaslu's upper mountain is known among guides for its avalanche-prone slopes, and this season made that reputation clear early. An avalanche swept down near Camp 4 and buried a freshly fixed section of rope, just hours before the rope-fixing team planned to use it. No one was hurt in that incident, but it was an early sign of how loaded and unstable the snowpack had become.   Persistent snowfall over the following days made conditions worse, not better. Layers of fresh, loose snow sat on top of older snow, creating the unstable slab conditions that guides watch for closely. Our own team, positioned on the mountain at the time, could see and feel how quickly things were changing.   Heavy Snowfall in Manaslu Base Camp     Tragedy on the Mountain: Two Lives Lost   During this period, a slab avalanche struck a tent at Camp 3, killing a foreign climber and his guide, who had pushed higher than the rest of their team in hopes of an early summit attempt. A rescue team later found them buried under roughly two meters of snow.   This loss affected the entire mountain, not just the team involved. Climbers, guides, and outfitters from every expedition, including ours, felt the weight of it. The ACE team holds the memory of these two lives in our thoughts, and we offer our condolences to their families and their expedition family.     A Narrow Escape for Our Own Team   During this stretch of unstable weather, one of our guide's tent was buried by snow. Luckily, he was not inside and had went outside just before the snow sturk the tent and buried it. There was no serious damage to any of our members or our climbing Sherpa guides. It was a close call, and a clear reminder of how quickly conditions on Manaslu can turn serious, even at camps that are normally considered safe.   We share this not to alarm anyone, but because it is part of an honest account of this season. Every member of our team, guides and clients alike, came home safe. We are deeply grateful for that.   One of our guide's tent buried by snow. (Luckily, the guide was outside the tent in that moment)     Racing the Cyclone   As if avalanche danger were not enough, the weather forecast added more pressure. A cyclone forming over the Bay of Bengal was tracked heading toward Nepal, expected to bring heavy new snow and force every team off the mountain before it arrived. That left teams still on Manaslu with a hard choice: wait it out for days or weeks, call off their climb and go home, or rush a summit attempt with less rest and more crowding on the ropes than anyone would prefer.   This kind of pressure is exactly when accidents tend to happen. Rushed decisions, tired climbers, and a shrinking safety margin are a difficult combination on any 8,000-meter peak.     Our Team's Highest Point: 7,100 Meters   Our team completed two full rotations to prepare for the summit push, and once the route was fixed, we climbed to 7,100 meters, the highest point reached by any team on Manaslu this season. Reaching that height took real skill, discipline, and teamwork from our Sherpa staff and our clients.   From there, the combination of unstable snow, the recent avalanche, and the approaching storm made it clear that going higher was not worth the risk. We turned back.   ACE Team's Acclimatization Rotation     Not Alone: How the Rest of the Mountain Responded   Our decision was not made in isolation. As conditions worsened, a large number of operators on Manaslu came to the same conclusion, ending their seasons and sending their climbers home. Almost all teams on the mountain have now left. A small number remain at Base Camp, hoping for one more weather window, but current forecasts make that increasingly unlikely, and it's likely most of them will also head home before the season is out.   Seeing so many experienced teams and guides reach the same decision, independently, said a lot about how serious this season's conditions really were. This was not one operator being overly cautious. It was a mountain-wide judgment call.     A Message: Respect the Mountain   Manaslu did not give us the summit this year. It gave us something else instead: a clear reminder of where we stand next to a mountain like this.   We are not greater than nature. No amount of preparation, experience, or determination changes that. The avalanche danger, the storm, the loss of life this season, none of it cared about summit dreams or expedition budgets. The mountain simply did what mountains do, and our job was to listen.   We believe real mountaineering is not only about reaching the top. It is about knowing the mountain deserves your respect more than your ambition does. This season asked a lot of every team on Manaslu, and we are proud that ours listened when it mattered most.   Manaslu will still be there next year. So will we, and we'll return when conditions, and the mountain, are ready to welcome us back.     About Alpinist Climber Expeditions   Alpinist Climber Expeditions has run Himalayan climbs and treks in Nepal since 2021, guided by IFMGA-certified mountain guides and experienced Sherpa climbing staff. Safety has always come first in every decision we make, on Manaslu and every mountain we climb.  

Sep 23, 2026 Read More →
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Raphael Lindenmann
Raphael Lindenmann
Kyajo Ri
In April 2025, we completed an unforgettable expedition to Kyajo Ri with ACE. We were four friends from Switzerland and enjoyed about two and a half weeks in the Khumbu region. From our arrival in Kathmandu to the summit and back, ACE's organization was impeccable.A well-coordinated team, superb support, excellent…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam + Kyajo Ri + Cholatse
I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Kyajo Ri & Cholatse
With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Manu Laireiter
Manu Laireiter
Kyajo Ri
I participated in a private expedition to Kiayo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and it was simply fantastic. From the initial consultation to the final summit push, everything was perfectly organized and tailored to my individual needs. The guides were not only highly professional and extremely experienced in high-altitude mountaineering,…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
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Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)
Expedition Report

Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)

  Our expedition team is moving up the mountain with expert guidance and safety. The team reached Camp 1 (5,700 m) for the first rotation yesterday, 12 October, at around 5 PM. Today, 13 October, they are pushing on to Camp 2 (6,100 m) to sleep at altitude.   Rope fixing team reaches the summit   There is more news from the mountain. The rope fixing team reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m) today, 13 October, at around 11 o’clock. The rope fixing team puts ropes on the route so that climbers can move more safely on the technical sections. Reaching the summit is an important step for everyone planning to climb Ama Dablam this season.   The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2   The way from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the technical heart of the Ama Dablam climb. The path follows a narrow rock ridge, graded fourth class, that runs sideways around a line of rock towers (climbers call them pinnacles and gendarmes). There is a big drop on both sides, so every step needs full focus. The granite here is very good: solid, with plenty of grip, and a joy to climb.   Just before Camp 2, the team reaches the Yellow Tower. This is about ten metres of almost vertical granite, graded French 4th class (British Severe, North American 5.5). Fixed ropes are in place, but the climb still needs real climbing skill and confident movement while carrying a pack. Above the Yellow Tower, the team reaches Camp 2 at 6,100 m.   Drone View of Mt. Ama Dablam   Guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa   This expedition is guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa, founder of Alpinist Climber Expeditions. An IFMGA certificate is a high international standard for mountain guides. It means the team has a guide trained to make careful decisions about the route, the weather, and safety on a technical Himalayan peak.   Why the first rotation and Camp 2 matter for acclimatization   Ama Dablam stands in the Everest Region of Nepal, and the air gets thinner with every step up. A rotation is a trip up the mountain to sleep at a higher camp, so the body can slowly adjust. The first rotation took the team to Camp 1, and sleeping at Camp 2 is the next step. When the team is fully acclimatized, they are stronger and safer for the summit push. We never rush this step. Read more in our acclimatization guide for Himalayan peaks.   Ama Dablam Autumn 2026 Expedition: Trekking to Camp 1     What comes next   After the night at Camp 2, the team will get ready for the summit push. The plan depends on how everyone feels and on the weather. We will share more news soon.   Dreaming of a Himalayan peak?   Learn more about our Ama Dablam Expedition, or see our other peak climbing trips in Nepal. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has guided in the Himalayas since 2021, with a safety-first approach on every climb.   Follow us for more updates from Ama Dablam. To plan your next expedition, message us on WhatsApp at +977 9843314253 or email info@alpinistclimberexpeditions.com.    

Oct 13, 2026 Read Article →
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