Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)
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Ama Dablam 2026: Team Reaches Camp 1 (5,700 m)

 

Our expedition team is moving up the mountain with expert guidance and safety. The team reached Camp 1 (5,700 m) for the first rotation yesterday, 12 October, at around 5 PM. Today, 13 October, they are pushing on to Camp 2 (6,100 m) to sleep at altitude.

 

Rope fixing team reaches the summit

 

There is more news from the mountain. The rope fixing team reached the summit of Ama Dablam (6,812 m) today, 13 October, at around 11 o’clock. The rope fixing team puts ropes on the route so that climbers can move more safely on the technical sections. Reaching the summit is an important step for everyone planning to climb Ama Dablam this season.

 

The route from Camp 1 to Camp 2

 

The way from Camp 1 to Camp 2 is the technical heart of the Ama Dablam climb. The path follows a narrow rock ridge, graded fourth class, that runs sideways around a line of rock towers (climbers call them pinnacles and gendarmes). There is a big drop on both sides, so every step needs full focus. The granite here is very good: solid, with plenty of grip, and a joy to climb.

 

Just before Camp 2, the team reaches the Yellow Tower. This is about ten metres of almost vertical granite, graded French 4th class (British Severe, North American 5.5). Fixed ropes are in place, but the climb still needs real climbing skill and confident movement while carrying a pack. Above the Yellow Tower, the team reaches Camp 2 at 6,100 m.

 

Guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa

 

This expedition is guided personally by IFMGA Guide Prakash Sherpa, founder of Alpinist Climber Expeditions. An IFMGA certificate is a high international standard for mountain guides. It means the team has a guide trained to make careful decisions about the route, the weather, and safety on a technical Himalayan peak.

 

Why the first rotation and Camp 2 matter for acclimatization

 

Ama Dablam stands in the Everest Region of Nepal, and the air gets thinner with every step up. A rotation is a trip up the mountain to sleep at a higher camp, so the body can slowly adjust. The first rotation took the team to Camp 1, and sleeping at Camp 2 is the next step. When the team is fully acclimatized, they are stronger and safer for the summit push. We never rush this step.

 

Ama Dablam Autumn 2026 Expedition: Trekking to Camp 1

 

 

What comes next

 

After the night at Camp 2, the team will get ready for the summit push. The plan depends on how everyone feels and on the weather. We will share more news soon.

 

Dreaming of a Himalayan peak?

 

Learn more about our Ama Dablam Expedition, or see our other peak climbing trips in Nepal. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has guided in the Himalayas since 2021, with a safety-first approach on every climb.

 

Follow us for more updates from Ama Dablam.


To plan your next expedition, message us on WhatsApp at +977 9843314253 or email info@alpinistclimberexpeditions.com.

 

 

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  Every climbing season on Manaslu is different. Record numbers of climbers arrived at Base Camp this autumn, hoping for a straightforward summit. What they found instead was a mountain that tested every team on it, ours included.   This article looks back at the full season: how it started, what went wrong, and why we believe the outcome, difficult as it was, was the right one.     A Record Season, and a Crowded Mountain   Manaslu is usually one of the more approachable 8,000-meter peaks, which is exactly why it drew so many climbers this year. Nepal's Department of Tourism listed close to 500 foreign climbers this season, with a similar number of local guides and support staff on the mountain, making it a record year for permits. 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A cyclone forming over the Bay of Bengal was tracked heading toward Nepal, expected to bring heavy new snow and force every team off the mountain before it arrived. That left teams still on Manaslu with a hard choice: wait it out for days or weeks, call off their climb and go home, or rush a summit attempt with less rest and more crowding on the ropes than anyone would prefer.   This kind of pressure is exactly when accidents tend to happen. Rushed decisions, tired climbers, and a shrinking safety margin are a difficult combination on any 8,000-meter peak.     Our Team's Highest Point: 7,100 Meters   Our team completed two full rotations to prepare for the summit push, and once the route was fixed, we climbed to 7,100 meters, the highest point reached by any team on Manaslu this season. 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This is what real mountain guiding looks like, on the easy days and the hard ones.   In the mountains, there is one thing every guide eventually learns to respect: nature decides, not us. Manaslu will still be there next year, and so will we.     About Our Guide and Team   This expedition was led by Prakash Sherpa, an IFMGA-certified mountain guide, working alongside our full team of experienced Sherpa climbers. IFMGA certification is the highest standard in mountain guiding worldwide. It means our lead guide has trained not only in climbing, but in weather judgment, rope systems, rescue skills, and expedition leadership. That training matters most in exactly this kind of moment, when the safe choice and the popular choice are not the same thing.     Alpinist Climber Expeditions Since 2021   We have run Himalayan climbs and treks in Nepal since 2021. Every expedition we lead is guided by experienced Sherpa climbing guides, with the same safety-first approach behind every decision, on Manaslu and on every mountain we climb.     What Comes Next   We are preparing a follow-up article that looks more closely at what happened on Manaslu this season, the conditions our team and others faced, and why every climbing team should respect the mountain's limits. Watch this space for that update.   If you are planning a future Himalayan expedition, our team would be glad to help you plan a climb built around the same safety-first approach you have read about here.     FAQs   Why was the Manaslu 2026 season called off? Heavy snow loaded the upper slopes with unstable slab, and several of Nepal's largest operators ended their seasons the same week. 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Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam + Kyajo Ri + Cholatse
I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Raphael Lindenmann
Raphael Lindenmann
Kyajo Ri
In April 2025, we completed an unforgettable expedition to Kyajo Ri with ACE. We were four friends from Switzerland and enjoyed about two and a half weeks in the Khumbu region. From our arrival in Kathmandu to the summit and back, ACE's organization was impeccable.A well-coordinated team, superb support, excellent…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Kyajo Ri & Cholatse
With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Manu Laireiter
Manu Laireiter
Kyajo Ri
I participated in a private expedition to Kiayo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and it was simply fantastic. From the initial consultation to the final summit push, everything was perfectly organized and tailored to my individual needs. The guides were not only highly professional and extremely experienced in high-altitude mountaineering,…
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Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

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Ama Dablam Base Camp Weather Update
Expedition Report

Ama Dablam Base Camp Weather Update

  Good news from the Khumbu Region. The weather at Ama Dablam Base Camp has improved since this morning, and the mountain is now clearly visible.   Ama Dablam (6,812 m) is one of the most beautiful peaks in the Himalayas. After a few hours of changing weather, it was a great moment to see it clear and bright from camp. Weather can change fast in the Everest Region, so our team keeps checking the conditions through the day. Clear spells like this one help us plan with confidence and keep everyone safe.   Take a look at the photos below to see the view from Base Camp today.   Ama Dablam, clear and bright from Base Camp this morning.   Planning a climb in the Himalayas? Learn more about our Ama Dablam Expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions.    

Oct 11, 2026 Read Article →
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