Founder & Managing Director
Welcome to Alpinist Climber Expeditions.
At Alpinist Climber Expeditions we believe that extraordinary mountains deserve extraordinary leadership, and that belief is the reason ACE exists. When I founded the company in 2021, my vision was simple: to build a premium high-altitude expedition company rooted in professionalism, trust, and an uncompromising standard of safety, the one built on a genuine passion for high-altitude mountaineering, not just the pursuit of summits.
As a certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, I have spent years climbing and leading expeditions across the Himalaya and Karakoram, including on Everest, K2, Makalu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Every one of those mountains is different, but they've taught me the same lesson that a successful expedition is the result of teamwork, precise planning, sound judgment, and a strong commitment to the people who trust you with their journey.
That understanding shapes everything we do at ACE. We focus exclusively on quality over quantity, and we design each one with the same care, experienced leadership, personalized support, and logistics held to the highest international standard, from arrival to summit and safely home again. We keep our teams small so every guest receives the attention they deserve while ensuring sound decisions at every step.
Since our founding, we've had the privilege of guiding climbers, professional athletes, explorers, and adventurers from around the world - supporting first Himalayan summits, alpine-style ascents, 8,000-meter expeditions, and world-class speed and projects without supplemental oxygen. We've shared in personal milestones, national firsts, speed records, and historic ascents. Those achievements belong to the climbers who earned them, but they also speak to the strength, experience, and professionalism of the team standing behind them.
Our commitment doesn't end at the summit. It extends to responsible mountain practices, environmental respect, and a level of safety and service that defines every detail of the experience. Every climber who joins ACE becomes part of a team that values preparation, integrity, and relationships built to last well beyond a single expedition.
Whether your ambition is an iconic Himalayan peak or the challenge of an 8,000-meter giant, we are honored to be your trusted partner on that journey.
Thank you for considering Alpinist Climber Expeditions. I look forward to welcoming you to an exceptional mountain experience on your next great adventure.
Prakash Sherpa
Founder & Managing Director
Alpinist Climber Expeditions
Alpinist Climber Expeditions (ACE) was founded on a clear vision: to deliver premium, professionally led high-altitude expeditions built on uncompromising safety, world-class logistics, and expert mountain leadership. It was the first step on a journey that would soon reach the world's highest summits.
ACE welcomed its first international climbers, Christiane De Jong and Rogier van Keulen, on pioneering expeditions that laid the foundation for the company's growing international reputation.
Later that year, ACE organized the Himlung Himal Speed Project with Benedikt Böhm and Prakash Sherpa, setting a remarkable base-camp-to-summit record of 6 hours 35 minutes - a performance sponsored by DYNAFIT that showcased ACE's ability to manage elite high-altitude projects.
ACE successfully led an alpine-style expedition on Pumori and a summit of Nuptse with Christiane De Jong and Prakash Sherpa. In recognition of his achievement, Christiane De Jong received one of the Netherlands' highest alpine honors from the Dutch Alpine Club.
Later in the year, ACE managed the Cho Oyu Speed Project with Benedikt Böhm and Prakash Sherpa, completing base camp to summit in 12 hours 35 minutes, once again sponsored by DYNAFIT - another world-class high-altitude performance under ACE leadership.
ACE successfully led an Everest expedition without supplementary oxygen. During the climb, Lenka Poláčková became the 10th woman in history to summit Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen - a landmark moment for women's high-altitude mountaineering and a testament to ACE's expertise in supporting elite expedition goals.
In August, ACE organized the Spantik Speed Project, once again supporting Benedikt Böhm and Prakash Sherpa in another world-class alpine performance.
In spring 2025, ACE organized the Flash Everest Expedition, where Karel Abraham completed an extraordinary Czech-to-Czech Everest expedition in just 14 days - a feat made possible by exceptional planning and logistics led by Prakash Sherpa.
Later that season, ACE led a successful K2 expedition under the leadership of Prakash Sherpa, achieving two historic milestones: Kah Shin Leow became the first Singaporean to summit K2 without supplementary oxygen, and Lenka Poláčková became the first Slovak woman to summit K2 without supplementary oxygen.
After five years of growth, world-class expeditions, and historic achievements, Alpinist Climber Expeditions steps into a new chapter with a refreshed brand identity and logo.
This isn't just a visual change - it reflects who we've become. It carries the experience we've gained, the trust we've earned, and our ongoing commitment to raising the standard of premium high-altitude expeditions.
Our new identity is more than a new look. It's renewed ambition, continuous improvement, and an unwavering commitment to excellence.
2021-2025 was our foundation. 2026 marks the beginning of our next ascent. New Identity. Higher Standards. Greater Ambitions.
From our first alpine climbs in 2022 to world-class speed projects, summit records without supplemental oxygen, and historic ascents on Everest and K2, every milestone has shaped who we are today. ACE has grown into a standard high-altitude expedition company recognized for world-class logistics and expert mountain leadership.
Looking ahead, our vision stays clear: to combine international guiding standards with the unmatched expertise of a Nepal-based IFMGA Mountain Guide and an experienced local team - delivering professionally managed expeditions, personalized service, and exceptional mountain leadership to climbers from around the world.
Every summit tells a story. Let ACE help you write yours. Partner with our expert team for a premium, safety-first expedition experience - backed by a proven legacy of record-breaking ascents and world-class mountain leadership.
Begin Your Story →
Beyond these landmark achievements, Alpinist Climber Expeditions has quietly built a legacy across Nepal, Pakistan, Tibet, and the wider Himalayan ranges. From technical alpine ascents and 6,000-8,000-meter expeditions to bespoke private climbs and elite speed projects, ACE has guided mountaineers from around the globe toward their personal summits - safely, and with purpose.
Our portfolio spans iconic peaks including Everest, K2, Cho Oyu, Himlung Himal, Pumori, Nuptse, Cholatse and Kyajo Ri, among many others across the region. Each expedition carries the same signature: expert leadership, meticulous planning, uncompromising safety, and a genuinely personalized approach to every climber we guide.
Today, ACE is recognized as a trusted, premium high-altitude expedition company - delivering world-class logistics and mountain leadership while supporting record-setting climbs, first ascents, speed projects, and life-changing Himalayan experiences.
Many expeditions rely on seasonal guides with limited experience or prioritize speed over skill.
Our IFMGA-certified guides are seasoned alpinists with decades in high-altitude terrain. We lead with quiet confidence and deep technical know-how, not ego or hype.
Guiding often begins and ends with logistics. There’s little focus on your personal journey or progress.
We coach, train, and challenge our climbers to grow mentally, physically, and technically. Every summit with us builds your skills, strength, and confidence.
Crowded routes, poor acclimatization, and environmental shortcuts are too often the norm.
We are Nepal’s first guiding company focused exclusively on alpine-style expeditions. With small teams, tailored pacing, and a respect for the mountain, we maintain world-class safety standards and a high summit rate, without compromising the environment.
This report follows the climb from Kathmandu to the summit of Kyajo Ri (6,186m), through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and the quiet Khumjung valley, up to a base camp shared with fresh snow leopard tracks, and finally to a 7:58 a.m. summit reached with no other team on the mountain. If you're researching Kyajo Ri expedition before booking your own climb, this report also covers what most climbers want to know: how technical it is, how it compares to other Khumbu trekking peaks, and what the summit push really involves. Expedition Overview • Peak: Kyajo Ri, 6,186 m (20,296 ft) • Region: Khumbu Region, between the Gokyo and Thame valleys, Everest Region, Nepal • Summit Date: 3 May 2022 • Starting Point: Kathmandu, via mountain flight to Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport) • Route: Lukla → Phakding → Namche Bazaar → Khumjung → Base Camp (4,550 m) → Camp 1 (acclimatization) → High Camp (5,300 m) → Summit, climbed in alpine style • Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff • Weather: Clear and stable on summit day, which made the demanding alpine-style push possible Kyajo Ri is classified as a Group A trekking peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, but don't let that label undersell it. It's widely considered more technical than neighboring peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche East, with sustained sections of ice, rock, and snow that call for real alpine climbing skills rather than a straightforward walk-up. Full Expedition Report Kathmandu to Phakding The expedition began with a 30-minute mountain flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. We had lunch there with a beautiful view over the airport before setting off on a short hike down to Phakding village to spend the first night on the trail. Phakding to Namche Bazaar The trail to Namche Bazaar crosses several bridges, including the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest in the region. The final kilometers climb steeply, but the views make you forget the effort. Arriving in Namche, we had a warm welcome from the local Sherpa community and settled into the Sherpa Barista Home lodge for the next two nights. Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar We spent two days in Namche to acclimatize, using the time to visit local cultural museums and get to know the Sherpa community a little better. We also hiked up to the Everest View Point, both for altitude adjustment and for a first look at the highest mountain in the world. Namche Bazaar to Khumjung From Namche, we continued to Khumjung village at 3,800 m, where we stayed overnight, rested, and made our final preparations before heading toward Kyajo Ri base camp. Khumjung to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4,550 m) Leaving Khumjung, the trail climbed over a steep hill before opening into a flat valley, where we set up base camp at 4,550 m. Acclimatization at Base Camp and Camp 1 We spent two nights at base camp to acclimatize, including a hike up to Camp 1 to adjust to the higher elevation. The route to Camp 1 crosses moraine terrain, with striking views the whole way. This remote valley is also home to more wildlife than you'd expect — on the way up, we spotted fresh snow leopard tracks in the snow, left just minutes before we arrived. It's a reminder of how wild and untouched this part of the Khumbu still is. Base Camp to High Camp (5,300 m) From base camp, we moved up to a high camp set between Camp 1 and Camp 2, at 5,300 m. We slept for only a few hours before the summit push. With no other teams climbing Kyajo Ri that season, the camps and the mountain itself were entirely ours. Summit Day (3 May 2022) We left high camp at 1:00 a.m. Climbing in true alpine style through the night was demanding — the route mixed ice, rock, and deep snow, and with no other team having climbed the mountain that period, there was no packed trail to follow. Every section had to be worked out as we went. The summit push was long and hard because of the snow conditions, but the weather stayed perfect throughout, which made it possible to keep pushing despite the difficulty. At 7:58 a.m., we reached the summit of Kyajo Ri. With the entire mountain to ourselves, we took time to enjoy the spectacular views before beginning the descent back to base camp. Return to Namche Bazaar Everyone made it back safely to Namche Bazaar to rest, tired but glad to be down. Safety remained the priority from the first step in Lukla to the last one back in Namche — and it's that same approach we carry into every expedition that follows. Challenges • Climbing alpine style through the night with no packed trail to follow, since no other team had climbed the mountain that season • Mixed technical terrain — ice, rock, and deep snow — on the summit push • Difficult snow conditions that made the summit push longer and more physically demanding than expected • A short rest window at high camp (5,300 m) before a 1:00 a.m. departure • Multiple staged acclimatization stops (Namche, Khumjung, base camp, Camp 1) needed to prepare the body for a technical push above 5,000 m Highlights • Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest bridge in the region • A first view of Everest from the Everest View Point above Namche Bazaar • Fresh snow leopard tracks spotted on the way to Camp 1 • Having the high camp — and the entire mountain — to ourselves for the whole climb • Reaching the summit at 7:58 a.m. under a perfectly clear sky • The warm welcome and cultural museums experienced in Namche Bazaar Safety Kyajo Ri doesn't forgive careless decisions, and this climb reinforced why. With no other team on the mountain and no trail already broken, every route-finding call during the night push mattered. We built the itinerary around layered acclimatization — two nights in Namche, an overnight in Khumjung, two nights at base camp with a hike to Camp 1 — before committing to a high camp at 5,300 m and the summit push. That staged approach, combined with careful pacing through the mixed ice, rock, and snow terrain, is what allowed the team to reach the summit and return safely despite the difficult conditions. Safety is our number one priority at Alpinist Climber Expeditions, and on a peak as technical and remote as Kyajo Ri, that meant leaning fully on the judgment of our IFMGA-certified guide and experienced Sherpa climbing staff at every stage of the climb. Conclusion Kyajo Ri gave us a mountain entirely to ourselves — no crowds, no packed trail, just our team working through ice, rock, and snow toward a 7:58 a.m. summit. It's a climb that demands more than most trekking peaks in the Khumbu, and it rewards that effort with a kind of solitude that's increasingly rare in this region. The snow leopard tracks near Camp 1 stay with us as a reminder of how wild this valley still is, and how much respect a mountain like Kyajo Ri deserves. We're grateful for the safe climb, the clear weather on summit day, and the team that made it happen. If a technical, less-crowded Himalayan summit is what you're after, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, guided Kyajo Ri expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming departures to see what's next.
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