Prakash Sherpa

Biography


Prakash Sherpa is the founder and CEO of Alpinist Climber Expeditions (ACE), and a certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, one of the most demanding qualifications a mountaineer can hold anywhere in the world. Since 2011, he has worked professionally as a guide, building a career shaped by technical mastery, rigorous international training, and an unrelenting passion for high altitude climbing. Over more than a decade in the mountains, he has led climbers across some of the most extreme terrain on Earth, from Nepal's towering 8,000m giants to the technical faces of Europe and New Zealand, earning a reputation as one of the region's most accomplished and trusted guides. That same experience now shapes how he leads Alpinist Climber Expeditions today.

 

 

A family legacy in the mountains

 

Prakash didn't discover the mountains on his own. He was raised into them. His grandparents, father, and uncle were all respected alpine guides in their time, and it was under their guidance that Prakash took his first real steps into the profession that would define his life. At just 15 years old, he summited Mera Peak (6,476m) for the first time, a moment that set the direction for everything that followed. There was no turning back from there. Opportunities to work and climb in high mountains around the world began opening up, taking him from the Himalayas to the Alps of Europe and the Southern Alps of New Zealand.

 

 

8,000m summits, four without oxygen

 

Over the years, Prakash has built one of the most demanding climbing records among Nepal's mountain guides. He has successfully summited seven of the world's fourteen 8,000m peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and K2. What sets his record apart is that four of these, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu, were climbed without supplementary oxygen, a feat that demands not just physical strength but an intimate understanding of how the body performs in the death zone. His technical range extends further still, with summits of Nuptse, Pumori, and Ama Dablam, peaks known as much for their difficulty as their beauty.

 

 

Certified at the highest level

 

Prakash holds the IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV Mountain Guide certification, the same internationally recognised qualification held by only a small number of guides across Nepal. His training goes well beyond climbing technique, covering Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Advanced and Basic Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Recco Rescue, and multiple levels of ski training completed across Nepal, Switzerland, Austria, and Chamonix. This layered training, built over more than a decade, is what allows him to lead expeditions with the calm, decisive judgment that high altitude mountaineering demands.

 

 

A career that spans continents

 

Between 2018 and 2025, Prakash summited Mount Everest five times and added a summit of K2 in 2025, cementing his place among guides with proven experience on the world's most extreme peaks. His expedition record below 8,000m is just as extensive, with dozens of climbs across Nepal's most technical mountains, Pumori, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Kyajo Ri, Cholatse,  Lobuche East, Mera Peak, Island Peak and Himlung Himal among them, including a notable 2022 speed ascent of Himlung Himal alongside German ski mountaineer Benedikt Böhm.

 

His guiding work has also taken him abroad, leading climbs across New Zealand's Southern Alps, including Mount Cook and Mount Aspiring, and across the Alps of Europe, from the Matterhorn to Grossglockner. Alongside his expedition career, Prakash has guided trekkers through nearly every major trekking region in Nepal, from the Everest Base Camp and Three Passes treks to remote routes like Upper and Lower Dolpo and the Makalu Base Camp Trek.

 

 

Guiding Beyond The Summit

 

Today, Prakash leads Alpinist Climber Expeditions with the same discipline and care that shaped his own climbing career. As CEO, he ensures every expedition is built on thorough preparation, technical precision, and a genuine focus on each climber's safety and experience, standing on the summit is the goal, but for Prakash, the job isn't done until every climber is safely back down and carrying home a story worth telling.

 

He is a member of the IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV, and NNMGA, He has been a sponsored athlete with Dynafit since 2021.

 

 

Mountaineering Training

  • IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV Mountain Guide
  • Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling
  • Ski Level 1 Training (Nepal)
  • Ski Level 2 Training (Switzerland)
  • Ski Training (Chamonix)
  • Advance Mountaineering Training
  • Basic Mountaineering Training
  • Basic Rescue Training
  • Wilderness First Aid Training
  • Rock Climbing Level One Training
  • Ski Training (Austria)
  • Recco Rescue Training
  • First Aid Training
  • Maps and Compass Reading
  • Trekking Guide Training

 

Above 8000m Expeditions

  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2018
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2019
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2021
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2024
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2025
  • Mount K2 8,611m / 2025
  • Mount Lhotse 8,516m / 2021
  • Mount Makalu 8,463m / 2016
  • Mount Cho Oyu 8,188m / 2023
  • Mount Dhaulagiri 8,167m / 2017
  • Mount Manaslu 8,163m / 2017

 

Above 6000m & 7000m Expeditions

  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2017)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2018)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2019)
  • Cholatse 6,440m (2022)
  • Kyajo Ri 6,186m (2022)
  • Chulu West 6,419m (2016)
  • Lobuche east 6,119m (2022)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2021)
  • Island Peak 6,189m (2012)
  • Lobuche East 6,119m (2018)
  • Lobuche East 6,119m (2019)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2012)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2013)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2015)
  • Amphu Peak 6120m (2020)
  • Himlung Himal 7126m (2022)
  • Lobuche East 6119m (2022)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2022)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2022)
  • Baruntse 7,162m (2022)
  • Himlung Himal 7126m (2022 - Speed Ascent)
  • Island Peak 6,160m (2023)
  • Pumori 7,161m (2023)
  • Nuptse 7,861m (2023)
  • Nirekha 6,159m (2024)
  • Spantik 7027m (2024)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2024)
  • Cholatse 6440m (2024)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2025)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2025)
  • Mera Peak 6476m (2026) 
  • Chhuama IV 6179m (2026 - First Ascent) 

 

Guiding & Climbing in New Zealand

  • Mount Cook 3724m (2019)
  • Mount Aspiring 3083m (2019 - 2 times)
  • Mount Dixon 3004m (2019)
  • Tasman Glacier, Hochstein 3000m (2019)
  • Remarkables 2319m (2019 - 2 times)

 

Europe Alps

  • Grossglocker 3798m
  • Matterhorn 4778m
  • Mount Olympus 2918m

 

Member

  • IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV
  • NNMGA

 

Athlete

  • Since 2021 with Dynafit
  • Former Brand Ambassador of EBC-5364
Prakash Sherpa
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Raphael Lindenmann
Raphael Lindenmann
Kyajo Ri
In April 2025, we completed an unforgettable expedition to Kyajo Ri with ACE. We were four friends from Switzerland and enjoyed about two and a half weeks in the Khumbu region. From our arrival in Kathmandu to the summit and back, ACE's organization was impeccable.A well-coordinated team, superb support, excellent…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam + Kyajo Ri + Cholatse
I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Kyajo Ri & Cholatse
With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
GS
Giannis Soukoulis
Island Peak Expedition
I want to thank from the bottom of my heart Alpinist climber expedition and his team for this experience!! I’m glad to have been there on the Himalayas !! I was doing the Island peak expedition and was the most impressed experience of my life! See you guys on Ama…
★ ★ ★ ★ ★
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
Nirekha Summit Success 2026: ACE Team Reaches 6,159 m
Expedition Report

Nirekha Summit Success 2026: ACE Team Reaches 6,159 m

  Alpinist Climber Expeditions (ACE) is glad to report a successful summit of Nirekha. Brian Richardson reached the top of the 6,159 m peak at 9:50 am on 7 November 2026. He climbed with guides Sona Chhiri and Sonam Chhiring. The expedition was led by our founder and IFMGA mountain guide, Prakash Sherpa.   ACE Team Summits Nirekha Peak     Summit details Peak: Nirekha, 6,159 m, Khumbu region, Nepal Summit date and time: 7 November 2026, 9:50 am Climber: Brian Richardson Climber: Daniel Jeffery Puttkemery Climbing guides: Sona Chhiri and Sonam Chhiring Expedition leader: Prakash Sherpa Style: Hybrid climbing     How the team climbed   The team used a hybrid aproach on this expedition. Fixed ropes were set on some of the harder sections of the route, which made those parts safer to move through. The summit push was then done in alpine style, which means moving light and fast in a single push.   Daniel Jeffery Puttkemery went up to Nirekha Base Camp with the team and did not go for the summit. We thank him for being part of the expedition.     The team on the mountain   Brian was guided by Sona Chhiri and Sonam Chhiring, with Prakash Sherpa leading the expedition. ACE has been guiding in the Himalayas since 2021, and our expeditions run with small teams and IFMGA-certified leadership. We congratulate Brian on his summit and thank everyone on the team.     About Nirekha   Nirekha stands in the Khumbu region of Nepal, close to the Cho La Col and in the same ridge chain as the Lobuche peaks. For the route, grade, itinerary and permit details, see our Nirekha Peak Expedition page. If you prefer lighter, faster climbs, our alpine style expeditions page explains how we run them.       Spring 2027 Bookings Now Open   Learn more about our 2027 Spring Expedition, you can view the trip and book on our Nirekha Expedition page or see our other peak climbing trips in Nepal. Follow us for more updates from the Himalayas.   To plan your next expedition, message us on WhatsApp at +977 9843314253 or email info@alpinistclimberexpeditions.com.       

Nov 09, 2026 Read Article →
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