Mera Peak Expedition Report 2021
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Mera Peak Expedition Report 2021

A team from Alpinist Climber Expeditions climbed Mera Peak (6,476m), the highest trekking peak in Nepal, in October 2021. The expedition was guided by IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa.

 

The trip followed a route through remote Sherpa villages, forest trails, and high alpine camps in the Hinku Valley, ending with a summit push across the Mera Glacier. This report covers the full itinerary, from the trek out of Sotang through acclimatization at Khare to the climb from High Camp to the summit.

 

Expedition Overview

     Peak: Mera Peak (6,476m), Mera North summit

     Region: Hinku Valley, Makalu Barun National Park, Solukhumbu District, Nepal

     Summit date: 26 October 2021

     Starting point: Kathmandu, with a jeep drive to Sotang to begin the trek

     Route: Sotang → Juke → Chholim-Kharka → Khote → Tangnag → Khare → High Camp → Mera Peak summit

     Guiding: Prakash Sherpa, IFMGA-certified Mountain Guide with Alpinist Climber Expeditions

     Weather: Clear skies through most of the trek; high winds in the hours before the summit push

 

Full Expedition Report

 

Day 1: Kathmandu to Sotang

The expedition began with a long jeep drive from Kathmandu to Sotang, a large village that served as the starting point for the trek toward Mera Peak.


Day 2: Sotang to Juke (2,200m)

From Sotang, the team hiked three hours to Juke, a small and remote Sherpa village at 2,200 metres. Juke is not on the usual trekking route, so few trekkers pass through. Along the trail the group saw a Himalayan squirrel, wild birds, and deer.


Day 3: Juke to Chholim-Kharka (3,600m)

The next stage climbed to Chholim-Kharka at 3,600 metres, a five-hour walk through forest thick with rhododendron and fir. The change in vegetation marked the team's steady gain in altitude.


Day 4: Chholim-Kharka to Khote

Day four was the longest so far: a seven-hour day that skipped the usual stop at Kholakharka camp and went straight through to Khote. The day started with a long, steady ascent to 4,500 metres across rocky ground. Not far past the high point, the group reached Panch Pokhari, five glacial lakes visible from the trail. Porters carrying heavy loads for the lodges were also on the trail.

Khote sits beside a wide river and has grown into a small hub with a cluster of lodges. It was here that the team had its first sight of Mera Peak, and clear night skies over the peak after dark.


Day 5: Khote to Tangnag (4,300m)

From Khote the trail eased into a gentler day, following the river toward Tangnag at 4,300 metres, with big mountains rising on either side the whole way. Partway along, the group stopped at a Buddhist monastery built into a rock cave which was one of the trip's quieter, more memorable moments.


Day 6: Tangnag to Khare (4,900m)

The walk to Khare continued in the same easy rhythm, past more striking mountain views, with a tea stop along the way at the Dig Kharka tea house to rest and rehydrate before altitude made that harder to do.


Days 7–9: Acclimatizing in Khare

Khare, at 4,900 metres, was where the team spent three full days preparing the body for what came next. The first day was dedicated to a straightforward acclimatization hike to 5,200 metres. On the second, the group walked up to Mera Base Camp and back down to Khare to sleep, gaining altitude exposure without staying high overnight. The third day was kept for rest and for sorting gear — boots, crampons, and everything else needed for the push above.


Day 10: Khare to High Camp (5,800m)

With the team acclimatized, they geared up in Khare and set out for High Camp at 5,800 metres. The five-hour walk crossed onto the Mera Glacier, with Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse visible behind them as they climbed. High Camp is located behind a large rock formation; because of the altitude, the last stretch took longer than it looked like it should. Only two groups were preparing to attempt the summit the next day, so High Camp was quiet. After dinner, the team wished each other luck and went to sleep early.


Day 11: Summit Day — Mera Peak (6,476m)

The team woke at 3 a.m. and had porridge and tea from the group's cook before setting out at 4 a.m. The other group at High Camp had already left, though the two parties crossed paths on the route up. The team climbed through the night, with high winds picking up in the final hours before dawn.

After three hours of climbing, they reached the summit of Mera Peak at 6,476 metres, with clear views of nearby peaks over 8,000 metres. They were alone on the summit. After thirty minutes taking photos, the team began the descent, continuing back down to Khare the same day.

 

Challenges

     The seven-hour push from Chholim-Kharka to Khote, including a steep ascent to 4,500m over rocky terrain with no stop at the usual Kholakharka camp

     Building a proper base of acclimatization at altitude — three full days at Khare, with graded hikes to 5,200m and to Mera Base Camp, before the team could safely move higher

     The final stretch into High Camp, where thin air made a visually “close” landmark feel much farther away

     High winds in the hours before the summit, adding a physically demanding edge to an already long push

     A demanding descent on summit day, covering the return from 6,476 metres all the way down to Khare in a single stretch

 

Highlights

     Wildlife sightings on the first day out of Sotang — a Himalayan squirrel, wild birds, and deer

     The remote, rarely visited village of Juke

     Rhododendron and fir forest on the climb to Chholim-Kharka

     The beautiful sight of Panch Pokhari's five glacial lakes

     First views of Mera Peak and clear night skies from Khote

     A Buddhist monastery built into a rock cave near Tangnag

     Panoramic views of Everest, Makalu, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, and Lhotse from the Mera Glacier

     A quiet, uncrowded High Camp shared with just one other group

     Reaching the summit alone, with thirty minutes to take in the view before heading back down

 

Safety

Every stage of this itinerary was shaped around the physical condition of the team, with IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa making the calls on pace and timing throughout. The three-day acclimatization block at Khare with a graded hike to 5,200 metres, a trip to Mera Base Camp and back, and a full rest day gave the group's bodies time to adjust before the push to High Camp and beyond.

On summit morning, the team's cook made sure everyone had porridge and tea before setting out into the cold, and the group climbed together through the night and the high winds that picked up before dawn. The entire team returned safely to Khare, without incident which was a result of following the guide's judgment at every stage, with the expedition operated by Alpinist Climber Expeditions.

 

Conclusion

This Mera Peak climb combined remote villages, forest trails, and a demanding but achievable summit day, with views of five of the world's 8,000-metre peaks from the top. The team's success came down to pacing the climb to match their condition and following an IFMGA-certified guide's judgment at each stage — a combination that develops the fitness, skills, and acclimatization habits needed for future high-altitude climbs.

For climbers planning their own ascent, our Mera Peak Expedition follows a carefully paced itinerary designed around acclimatization, mountain skills, and the demands of the summit day. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has been leading guided climbs to Mera Peak, with IFMGA-certified guides, since 2021.

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This report picks up right after our team's successful climb of Kyajo Ri, as we turned toward one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu.   This is the story of our Cholatse expedition (6,440m): a trek through Gokyo and across the Ngozumpa Glacier to reach Dragnak, a two-camp summit push through crevasses and steep snow, and a hard-earned summit that made every bit of the effort worth it.   If you're researching Cholatse before booking your own Cholatse expedition package, this report also covers what most climbers ask us: how technical the route really is, what the two-camp system looks like, and what kind of experience you need before attempting it.   Expedition Overview •     Peak: Cholatse, 6,440 m (21,128 ft) •     Region: Khumbu Region, near Gokyo and Dragnak, Everest Region, Nepal •     Summit Date: 15 May 2022 •     Starting Point: Namche Bazaar, via Gokyo and Dragnak •     Route: Namche Bazaar → Gokyo → Dragnak (via the Ngozumpa Glacier) → Base Camp (4,700 m) → Camp 1 (5,600 m) → Camp 2 (5,850 m) → Summit •     Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff •     Weather: Warm and sunny during the base camp rest days, with a long, demanding summit night through deep snow   Cholatse is widely regarded as one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu, with sustained mixed rock, ice, and snow climbing that's often compared to Ama Dablam in difficulty. 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Multiple crevasse crossings, a 250m headwall, and a long summit night through deep snow all demand careful, deliberate decision-making.   Having already acclimatized on Kyajo Ri gave the team a real advantage heading into Cholatse, reducing the extra rest needed at base camp and letting us focus on the technical demands of the route itself. 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We sorted gear, checked equipment one more time, and let our bodies adjust to the altitude. There's a particular kind of anticipation that builds during rest days like these, everyone quietly aware that the technical part of the climb is now close.   Lobuche to High Camp (5,270 m) The move up to high camp is short on paper but tough in practice. The trail follows a valley before turning into a steep, rocky, short climb right at the end. High camp itself sits in a rocky area above a small lake, which we used as our water source. We had dinner at camp and were in our tents by around 7 p.m. — an early night, but a necessary one, with a 1 a.m. wake-up call ahead of us.   Summit Day (21 May 2022) We were up at 1 a.m. Breakfast was simple as we had porridge and plenty of tea and by 2 a.m. we were moving. Everything outside the tent had frozen overnight, and the early sections of the route were rocky and largely free of snow, which made our journey technical before we'd even reached the crampon point. Past the crampon point, the climbing changed character completely: sustained 45-degree slopes that demand real stamina and upper-body strength to move through efficiently. The night was clear the entire time, and as we climbed we could pick out Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Makalu, Cholatse, and Ama Dablam standing sharp against the sky. At 6:02 a.m., we stood on the summit of Lobuche East. It's a small summit so there wasn't room for a large group up there and on this particular morning, we were the only team on the mountain. Standing on top with clear views in every direction, entirely alone, is not something every expedition gets to experience. After a safe summit, we began the descent back to high camp to rest, well aware that reaching the top is only half the job as we always have to think about a safe descent as well.   Challenges •     Rocky, snow-free terrain below the crampon point — technical and slow-going before the real climbing even started •     Sustained 45-degree slopes above the crampon point, demanding stamina and physical strength rather than pure technique •     Overnight freezing conditions, which affected gear, pace, and comfort during the alpine start •     Short acclimatization window between Lobuche village and the summit push, managed carefully through the two rest days •     Ongoing decision-making about pacing and timing, since a strong summit push means nothing without a controlled descent   Highlights •     A perfectly clear summit night with views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Pumori, Makalu, Cholatse, and Ama Dablam •     Reaching the summit of Lobuche East completely alone as a team, with no one else on the mountain that morning •     The 6:02 a.m. summit moment itself, arriving just as the light came up •     The first view of Nuptse from Lobuche village •     Cho Oyu dominating the skyline from Cho La Pass •     The quiet, uncrowded trail between Dzongla and Lobuche village   Safety Safety on Lobuche East comes down to a few things done consistently well: proper acclimatization, sound route decisions, and a team that communicates clearly under pressure. On this climb, that meant building in two rest days in Lobuche before pushing to high camp, reading the rocky, snow-free terrain carefully before the crampon point, and pacing the 45-degree summit slopes so the team still had strength in reserve for the descent. Reaching a summit is only ever half the climb as getting back down safely is what actually defines a successful expedition. This is the same safety-first approach that runs through every expedition we run at Alpinist Climber Expeditions: IFMGA-certified guides, experienced Sherpa climbing staff, and decisions that always prioritize the team's safety over summit ambition.   Conclusion Standing on the summit of Lobuche East at 6:02 a.m., alone on the mountain with Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam laid out in every direction, is the kind of moment that reminds you why this region draws climbers back again and again. It wasn't an easy climb with the rocky sections before the crampon point and the sustained slopes above it, but it was a controlled one. The biggest lesson from this expedition is one worth repeating: safety and success aren't competing priorities. Done right, they're the same thing. We're grateful to the mountain, to the route, and to the team that made the climb what it was. If Lobuche East is on your own list, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, well-guided climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming Lobuche East expeditions to see what's next.  

May 21, 2022 Read More →
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

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Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

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Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
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Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
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Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
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“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
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Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026
Expedition Report

Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026

  In July 2026, a team from Alpinist Climber Expeditions climbed Chhuama IV, a 6,179-metre peak in the Mustang region of Nepal that no one had ever summited before. On 16 July, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Dynafit athlete Prakash Sherpa reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time, after teammate Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres from the summit because of dangerous rockfall. Six earlier permit teams had tried and failed to climb Chhuama IV. This was the seventh attempt, and it succeeded — making it the first recorded ascent of the mountain. This is the story of that expedition: how the team got to the mountain, what the route was actually like, and what happened during the final push to the summit.   About Alpinist Climber Expeditions Alpinist Climber Expeditions is a Nepal-based expedition company that has been running alpine-style expeditions in the Himalayan ranges of Nepal since 2021. The Chhuama IV climb fits the kind of objective the company tends to take on: a lesser-known peak, a small team, and a route that hadn't been fully worked out by anyone before them. Alpine-style climbing generally means moving with a small team and minimal fixed infrastructure on the mountain, relying on judgment and route-finding rather than large-scale siege tactics — and that approach mattered on Chhuama IV, where conditions changed quickly and decisions had to be made on the spot.   The Peak and Why This Expedition  Was Different Chhuama IV sits in the Mustang region of Nepal and stands 6,179 metres high. Before this expedition, six other permit teams had attempted the mountain. None of them reached the top. That history says something about the peak — this wasn't a case of nobody having tried. Climbers had gone up before, assessed the conditions, and turned back. Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team was the seventh group to hold a permit for Chhuama IV. Reaching the summit meant succeeding where six previous attempts hadn't, on a mountain with no established route and no prior summit to reference for conditions, timing, or line of ascent.   Preparing for the Expedition and the Approach  to Base Camp The trip began on 9 July 2026 with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara, followed the next day by the long drive from Pokhara to Jomsom. On 11 July, the team continued by road from Jomsom to Lo Manthang, the historic walled town in Upper Mustang. The team spent 12 July acclimatizing in Lo Manthang before moving on. On 13 July they drove from Lo Manthang to Nymdo, and on 14 July they trekked from Nymdo to Base Camp. The following day, 15 July, they moved up from Base Camp to Lower High Camp — the last stop before the summit attempt. This slower, staged approach — drive, acclimatize, drive again, then trek up in stages to Base Camp and Lower High Camp — gave the team time to adjust to altitude before the technical climbing began.   Climbing Conditions on Chhuama IV Once the team got onto the mountain itself, the terrain turned out to be the main obstacle. The route up Chhuama IV involved long stretches of loose, unstable rock, slopes that could shift underfoot, and frequent rockfall. In the upper sections, there were only limited safe options for where to actually put a route, which meant the team had to keep reassessing the terrain as they climbed rather than following a fixed line. Weather added another layer of difficulty. Conditions changed often during the expedition, and on the day chosen for the summit push, the team had only a short window of favourable weather to work with. That combination — unstable ground below and a narrow weather window above — shaped almost every decision made on summit day.   The Summit Push : 16 July 2026 The team began its summit push from Lower High Camp on 16 July 2026. From early on, the upper mountain was hazardous. Rockfall was continuous, and the loose terrain meant every section had to be evaluated as they went, not assumed safe because it had been climbed before. Barnaby Francis climbed with the team through this section but made the decision to turn back approximately 250 metres below the summit. The reason was straightforward: the rockfall and the state of the terrain above made continuing unsafe. It was a judgment call made in the moment, based on what was actually happening on the mountain rather than on how close the summit looked. From that point, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued alone. He worked through the difficult, unstable upper section and kept going where the conditions had stopped his teammate. This wasn't a case of pushing through recklessly — it reflects the kind of terrain assessment that comes with IFMGA-level guiding experience, where the decision to continue or turn back is made section by section.   Reaching the Summit Prakash Sherpa reached the summit of Chhuama IV, at 6,179 metres, at 3:21 PM Nepal Local Time on 16 July 2026. With six previous permit teams having failed to summit the mountain, this made Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team the first to do so. The expedition is recorded by the team as the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV — a first ascent of a Nepal peak that had resisted six prior attempts before this one succeeded. After the summit, the team descended back toward Lower High Camp on the same day.     The Team's Experience  and the Way Down The climbing team for this expedition was small: Barnaby Francis from the United Kingdom, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa, and Ngima Tashi Sherpa as supporter. On a mountain with unstable rock and shifting weather, decisions had to be made quickly and by people who knew the terrain — which is part of why Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue, both mattered as much as the summit itself. The descent and return followed a similarly staged plan to the approach. On 17 July, the team trekked roughly 2.5 hours down from Lower High Camp before driving on to Pokhara. On 18 July, they completed the trip with the drive from Pokhara back to Kathmandu.   What Made This First Ascent  Significant Chhuama IV wasn't an easy objective, and it wasn't an obscure line that simply hadn't attracted attention. Six permit teams before Alpinist Climber Expeditions had tried to climb it and hadn't succeeded, which points to real difficulty rather than a lack of interest. The loose rock, the rockfall, and the narrow weather windows on summit day were the actual obstacles that had stopped previous attempts — and they were still present for this expedition. What changed the outcome wasn't a shortcut around those conditions. Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back 250 metres from the top, made because the risk was too high, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue where conditions allowed it, together produced the first known summit of the mountain. Both decisions came from reading the same terrain and weather correctly.   Conclusion The Chhuama IV expedition, carried out by Alpinist Climber Expeditions in July 2026, resulted in the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV 6,179-metre peak in Nepal's Mustang region — a mountain that had already turned back six permit teams before this one. On 16 July 2026, after Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres below the summit due to rockfall and unstable terrain, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued and reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time. It wasn't a straightforward climb, and the notes from the expedition don't describe it as one. Loose rock, frequent rockfall, and a narrow weather window shaped nearly every part of the summit day. Given that history, reaching the summit of Chhuama IV for the first time is a meaningful outcome — one built on careful, terrain-by-terrain decision-making rather than a single dramatic push to the top.     #GuidingBeyondTheSummit  #Dynafit 

Aug 12, 2026 Read Article →
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