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MERA PEAK LUXURY EXPEDITION

6,476m | Hinku Valley, Nepal

Duration

16 Days

Max Altitude

6,476m

Group Size

Max 2 - 4

Coordinates

27°42′33″N, 86°52′06″E

Trip Summary

Mera Peak sits at the head of the Hinku Valley in the Mahalangur Himalayas — a remote and less-travelled corridor that runs south of Lukla and provides one of the quieter approaches to the Everest region. The peak has three distinct summits: Mera North (6,476m), Mera Central (6,461m), and Mera South (6,065m). Our expedition targets Mera North, the true high point reached via the standard Southeast Ridge.

The approach to Base Camp at Khare (4,900m) passes through Makalu Barun National Park, a protected area of extraordinary biodiversity that encompasses high-altitude glaciers, pristine rivers, dense rhododendron and bamboo forest, and some of the most remote terrain in eastern Nepal. The national park is home to snow leopards, red pandas, Himalayan black bears, and over 400 bird species. The approach is not just a means to reach the mountain, it is a journey through one of Nepal's most ecologically significant landscapes.

From Khare, the route ascends to High Camp at approximately 5,800m via a glaciated approach across the Mera La — the high col that marks the transition from trekking to climbing terrain. The summit push from High Camp is a long, steady ascent along the Southeast Ridge, with sections of glacier travel and some minor crevasse crossings that require basic rope and crampon technique. The slopes rarely exceed 40 degrees, and fixed ropes are in place on the steeper sections near the top.

The summit view is the primary reason Mera Peak has attracted climbers from around the world for over seven decades. On a clear day, the horizon fills with the complete eastern Himalayan arc — Everest (8,849m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Kanchenjunga (8,586m) — all visible simultaneously from a single vantage point. It is one of the most expansive and memorable summit panoramas in the world.

At A Glance

Trip Overview

Duration

16 Days

Including travel days

Max Altitude

6,476m

Summit of MERA PEAK LUXURY EXPEDITION

Best Season

Spring & Autumn

Ideal climbing window

Group Size

Max 2 - 4

Small team support

Region

Hinku Valley

Expedition location

Grade

Medium

High-altitude guided climb

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Trip Description

Mera Peak (6,476m) is Nepal's highest trekking peak and one of the most rewarding high-altitude climbs available in the Himalayas. From its summit, five of the world's highest mountains are visible at once — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga — a panorama that is difficult to match on any other 6,000-metre objective in the country.

Classified Alpine Grade PD — Peu Difficile — Mera Peak is considered a moderate climb by Himalayan standards. The route does not involve the sustained technical terrain of peaks like Ama Dablam or Cholatse, but it demands genuine physical fitness, sound acclimatization, and basic mountaineering skills including glacier travel, crampons, and ice axe use. The mountain was first climbed in 1953 by Colonel Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing — the same year that Everest itself was first summited. It has remained a much-loved objective for experienced trekkers and first-time high-altitude climbers ever since.

The Mera Peak Luxury Expedition is designed for those who want to experience this exceptional summit in the most comfortable, seamless, and memorable way possible. The package includes a helicopter flight from Lukla directly to Kothe — bypassing the long trek approach — and a return helicopter from Khare to Lukla after the summit, eliminating the return journey on foot entirely. The expedition also incorporates a two-night stay at a 5-star resort in Chitwan National Park, one of Nepal's finest wildlife reserves, with a private jeep safari and elephant safari included.

This is not a compromise on the climbing experience. Every technical and safety standard remains exactly the same — IFMGA-certified guides, a 1:3 minimum guide-to-member ratio, a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio on summit day, full medical kit, and satellite communication. What changes is everything around the climb — the accommodation, the travel, the comfort, and the pace. You summit Mera Peak. We take care of everything else at the highest level.

Expedition Highlights

Summit Nepal's highest trekking peak — one of the most rewarding 6,000m climbs in the Himalaya
Panoramic summit views of five 8,000-metre peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga
Helicopter flight from Lukla to Kothe — bypassing the standard trek approach entirely
Helicopter return from Khare to Lukla after the summit — no long return trek required
Two nights at a 5-star resort in Chitwan National Park with private jeep safari and elephant safari
5-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast, welcome dinner, and farewell dinner
Unlimited internet access throughout the expedition — a rare inclusion at this altitude
Special drone permit included — capture your summit from the air
Option for 1:1 private summit experience alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

What Makes This a Luxury Expedition

The Mera Peak Luxury Expedition is built around a simple idea: the climb should be the most demanding thing you do. Everything around it — the travel, the accommodation, the logistics should be seamless, comfortable, and genuinely exceptional.

Helicopter Flights

On Day 5, instead of trekking from Lukla into the Hinku Valley — a multi-day approach on foot — you fly by helicopter directly from Lukla to Kothe (3,600m). This saves several days of trekking, reduces fatigue before the technical climbing begins, and provides an extraordinary aerial view of the Himalayan landscape as you fly deep into the mountains.

On Day 14, after the summit and the descent to Khare, a helicopter takes you directly from Khare back to Lukla, bypassing the entire return trek. You step off the mountain and into a flight. No multi-day walk out. No compromised recovery. Just a clean, comfortable transfer that lets you arrive in Kathmandu rested and ready to enjoy the final days of the expedition.

5-Star Accommodation

Both in Kathmandu (3 nights) and in Chitwan (2 nights), accommodation is at 5-star properties. In Kathmandu, this means a premium hotel with comfortable rooms, quality dining, and all the amenities needed to prepare for and recover from a high-altitude expedition. In Chitwan, the resort sits within or at the edge of the national park, offering an immersive natural setting with full luxury service.

Chitwan National Park

Days 2 and 3 of the expedition are spent in Chitwan, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Asia's finest wildlife reserves. The package includes a private jeep safari through the park's grasslands and forest, and an elephant safari offering a unique perspective on the park's landscape and its wildlife which includes one-horned rhinoceroses, Bengal tigers, gharial crocodiles, sloth bears, and hundreds of bird species. This experience is entirely separate from the climbing programme and adds a rich wildlife dimension to what would otherwise be a mountain-only expedition.

Unlimited Internet

Unlimited internet access is included throughout the expedition — a genuinely premium inclusion in a region where connectivity is limited and often charged per use by guesthouses. For those who need to stay connected to work or family during the trip, this removes one of the practical frustrations of a long high-altitude expedition.

Drone Permit

A special drone permit is included in the package — allowing you to capture aerial footage of your expedition, the mountain, and the surrounding Himalayan landscape. This is a significant inclusion that most expedition operators do not provide as standard.

Day by Day

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 5-star hotel in Kathmandu. Once settled, you meet the expedition guide and fellow team members for the first time. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — a warm introduction to the team, the expedition ahead, and Nepali hospitality at its best.

An early morning domestic flight takes you south from Kathmandu to Chitwan, home to one of Nepal's finest wildlife reserves and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. After checking into your 5-star resort, the afternoon is spent on a private jeep safari through the park's grassland and sal forest — the ideal habitat for one-horned rhinoceroses, Bengal tigers, wild elephants, sloth bears, and the gharial crocodile. Your private guide provides expert wildlife interpretation throughout.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
25–30 min flight	Flight: ~90 km	−915 m (1,330 m → 415 m)

The morning begins with an elephant safari — a traditional and immersive way to move through the park's dense vegetation and riverine grassland. Riding at height above the ground allows access to areas and sightlines that are impossible on foot or by vehicle, and provides an extraordinary perspective on the park's landscape and wildlife. The afternoon is free to explore the resort or the surrounding area before a final evening in the lowlands before the mountain journey begins.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	5–10 km	Minimal

A short morning flight returns the team to Kathmandu. The day is dedicated to final expedition preparation — a full briefing covering the route, safety protocols, equipment checks, and Ministry of Tourism permit formalities. At this meeting, you receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag and cap, confirm your packing list, and make any last-minute arrangements before the mountain phase of the expedition begins tomorrow.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
25–30 min flight	Flight: ~90 km	+915 m (415 m → 1,330 m)

An early morning fixed-wing flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) gives sweeping aerial views of the Himalayan range. At Lukla, the team transfers to a helicopter for the flight into the Hinku Valley — a spectacular low-level journey through steep forested gorges and across high ridges that deposits the team at Kothe (3,600m) in a fraction of the time a standard trek approach would require. From the air, the remote character of the Hinku Valley is immediately apparent — this is a far less-travelled part of the Everest region, and the landscape reflects it.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
35 min flight + 20–25 min helicopter	Flight: ~138 km, Helicopter: ~25 km	+2,270 m (1,330 m → 3,600 m)

The trail from Kothe climbs steadily through the Hinku Valley, following the Hinku Khola river upstream through dwarf rhododendron and high alpine terrain. The Mera Peak massif begins to appear at the head of the valley as the trail gains elevation. Thangnak is a small, seasonal settlement used primarily as a rest point for expeditions heading to Mera Peak — a quiet and atmospheric place to spend the night with the mountain now clearly visible above.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~13 km	+758 m (3,600 m → 4,358 m)

A full rest and acclimatization day. The body is adjusting rapidly to the reduced oxygen levels at this altitude, and a day of relative rest — with a short exploratory hike in the surrounding terrain if the team feels well — makes a significant difference to acclimatization quality. Staying well hydrated, eating regularly, and monitoring any altitude symptoms are the priorities for the day.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–5 hrs (optional hike)	4–6 km	+300–500 m (optional hike, return to Thangnak)

The trail continues up the valley toward Khare — the last permanent settlement before the glacial terrain begins. The path crosses the lateral moraine of the Hinku Glacier and gains significant altitude over a relatively short distance. Khare at 4,900m is Base Camp for the Mera Peak expedition — a cluster of lodges offering surprisingly comfortable accommodation at this elevation, including a single private room with hot shower for each team member.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–4 hrs	~7 km	+542 m (4,358 m → 4,900 m)

A second structured acclimatization day before the technical training begins. The body continues adapting to altitude, and the guide monitors team condition carefully throughout the day. A short hike above Khare toward the glacier provides a first look at the terrain ahead. Rest, hydration, and a well-prepared meal in the evening are the priorities.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–5 hrs (optional hike)	4–6 km	+300–500 m (optional hike, return to Khare)

The team ascends to the Mera La (5,415m) — the high glaciated col between Khare and the upper mountain — for a structured technical training session in the actual terrain of the climb. The session covers crampon technique on glacier ice, ice axe use and arrest, rope management on fixed lines, jumar operation, and safe movement across crevassed glacier terrain. Training at altitude on real terrain is significantly more effective than any classroom preparation. The team descends back to Khare for the night, having both trained and gained important acclimatization at 5,415m.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~8 km	+515 m (4,900 m → 5,415 m, return to Khare)

Departure from Khare after an early breakfast. The route crosses the Mera La and ascends the glacier toward High Camp at approximately 5,800m — a well-positioned camp on a broad, rocky outcrop with one of the most celebrated viewpoints in the entire Everest region. From this perch, Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu, and Baruntse sweep across the eastern horizon, with Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse visible to the north. Tents are pitched, a hot meal is prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the pre-dawn summit start.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~6 km	+900 m (4,900 m → 5,800 m)

A dedicated reserve day built into every Mera Peak Luxury Expedition. High-altitude weather is unpredictable, and this buffer provides the flexibility to wait one day for improved conditions if the weather on Day 13 is not suitable for a safe summit attempt. If conditions are favorable on Day 12, the expedition leader may choose to summit a day early and use Day 13 as the descent day. All decisions above High Camp are made by the expedition leader based on current weather forecasts, route conditions, and team readiness.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	Varies	Varies

Summit day begins at approximately midnight. The team dresses carefully in layers, checks all equipment by headlamp, and moves out into the darkness. The route from High Camp ascends the Southeast Ridge of Mera Peak — initially across open glacier terrain before steepening onto the upper ridge. Minor crevasses must be crossed on the approach to the summit cone. The slopes increase in angle near the top, requiring confident crampon technique and ice axe use, with fixed ropes in place on the steepest sections.

The summit of Mera North at 6,476m delivers one of the most extraordinary panoramas in the Himalayan world. Five peaks above 8,000 metres fill the horizon simultaneously — Everest (8,849m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), and Kanchenjunga (8,586m) — along with Pumori, Chamlang, Baruntse, and countless other summits stretching to the horizon in every direction.

After time at the top, the team descends carefully back to Khare — a long but steady descent that arrives in time for a warm meal and a well-earned rest in the lodge before the helicopter flight the following morning.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
10–14 hrs	~12 km	+676 m (5,800 m → 6,476 m, then descend to 4,900 m)

A helicopter arrives at Khare to carry the team directly back to Lukla — bypassing the entire return trek through the Hinku Valley. The flight takes a fraction of the time a standard trek return would require and offers extraordinary aerial views of the mountain you have just summited, the glacier below, and the Hinku Valley receding behind you. At Lukla, a fixed-wing flight returns the team to Kathmandu, where 5-star accommodation and a proper rest await.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
20–25 min helicopter + 35 min flight	Helicopter: ~25 km, Flight: ~138 km	−3,570 m (4,900 m → 1,330 m)

A guided sightseeing tour of Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites — ancient temples, Buddhist stupas, Newari courtyards, and the historic streets of the old city. The tour is led by a knowledgeable local guide who brings the cultural context of what you are seeing to life. In the evening, a farewell dinner is hosted to mark the successful completion of the expedition — a celebration of the summit, the team, and the journey.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	5–10 km	Minimal

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Mera Peak Luxury Expedition concludes — with a summit, a wildlife experience, helicopter flights through the Himalaya, and the kind of well-organized, personally attended journey that very few expedition operators can provide at this standard.

Our Difference

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

What to Expect from Our Team

Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

Expedition Photography

Gallery

Essential Information

Trip Notes

Quick facts: 6,476m | Hinku Valley, Khumbu region | Best season: spring (Mar–May) & autumn (Oct–Dec) | Graded PD (Peu Difficile) – non-technical but physically demanding

Overview

As Nepal’s highest trekking peak, Mera Peak is often chosen as a first major Himalayan summit. The approach through the quiet Hinku Valley avoids the crowds of the main Everest trail, and the reward at the top is extraordinary: views of five of the world’s six highest mountains, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga.

Route & Character

Unlike Nepal’s technical peaks, Mera doesn’t demand advanced rope or ice skills — the climb is essentially a long, steady glacier walk from high camp (around 5,750m) to the summit. What makes it challenging is sustained high-altitude exposure: climbers typically spend four or more days at or above 5,000m, and the summit day itself is an 8–12 hour round trip on snow and ice in thin air.

Key Risks & Why They Matter

Prolonged high-altitude exposure: Because the itinerary keeps climbers above 5,000m for several days in a row, the cumulative strain on the body is significant even without technical difficulty — this is the single biggest reason climbers are advised to have prior experience above 4,000m before attempting Mera.

Altitude sickness: At nearly half the oxygen level of sea level, headaches, nausea, and fatigue are common; in more serious cases this can progress to HAPE or HACE, which is why the itinerary builds in acclimatisation days and why guides carry oxygen and medical kits as a precaution.

Long, tiring summit day: There’s no single difficult technical move on Mera, but the sheer length of the glacier slog to the summit and back means simple physical exhaustion — not technical failure — is the most common reason climbers turn back before the top.

Crevasses and minor glacier hazards: The final approach crosses glaciated terrain with marked but real crevasse risk, particularly later in the season as snow cover thins; climbers rope up and follow flagged routes to stay on safe ground.

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

What To Bring

Equipment List

Although Mera Peak is rated a moderate climb, the altitude and glacier terrain demand well-prepared, properly fitted gear. The list below covers personal equipment essentials. All personal clothing and climbing gear should be sourced, fitted, and tested before departure. Do not bring items you have not already used in the field.

Headwear

Sun hat or lightweight cap
Warm fleece or wool hat
UV-protective sunglasses (category 4 recommended at this altitude)
Buff or thin balaclava / face mask

Handwear

Lightweight fleece or wool inner gloves
Gore-Tex outer mitten gloves

Clothing

Gore-Tex waterproof jacket
Gore-Tex waterproof trousers
Hiking trousers
Fleece jacket or warm mid-layer — slim enough to layer under Gore-Tex shell
Moisture-wicking base layer top
Thermal base layer trousers
Down jacket with hood

Footwear

Well broken-in trekking boots
Double-insulated alpine climbing boots
Crampons compatible with alpine boots
Snow gaiters
Trekking socks (4–5 pairs)
Camp sandals or light slippers

Technical Climbing Equipment

Ice axe
Sit harness
Locking carabiners and belay device
Ascender (jumar)
Climbing helmet

Camping & Trekking Essentials

Sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C
45-litre rucksack with rain cover
Large duffel bag with padlock (for porter loads)
Headlamp with spare batteries
1-litre water bottles (x2)
Thermos flask
Trekking poles
Personal first aid kit

Hygiene & Sun Protection

Waterproof wash bag
Medium towel
Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
Sunscreen SPF 50+ including lip balm with sun protection
Hand sanitizer and handwash
Toilet paper and wet wipes

What's Covered

Includes & Excludes

Included

Mera Peak climbing permit fees
Makalu Barun National Park entry permit
TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
Special drone permit fees
Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonus, full insurance, and equipment
All staff accommodation, wages, insurance, equipment, and medical provisions
Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
5-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast, welcome dinner, and farewell dinner (3 nights)
5-star resort accommodation in Chitwan with daily breakfast (2 nights)
Full-board lodge accommodation during the trekking phase
Single private room at Khare lodge with hot shower
Single tents for members and guides at High Camp
Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla (both ways) — fixed wing
Helicopter flight: Lukla to Kothe — approach to Hinku Valley
Helicopter flight: Khare to Lukla — return after summit
Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Chitwan and return
Private vehicle airport pick-up and drop-off in Kathmandu
Private jeep safari in Chitwan National Park with local guide
Elephant safari in Chitwan National Park
Guided top attractions sightseeing tour of the Kathmandu Valley
Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
Daily breakfast at 5-star hotel in Kathmandu
Daily breakfast at 5-star resort in Chitwan
Full-board meals during the trekking and climbing phase
High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides
Farewell dinner on Day 15 in Kathmandu
Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
Satellite phone for emergency communication
Unlimited internet access during the expedition
EPI gas and cooking stoves at High Camp
Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member

Not Included

International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
Nepal entry visa fees
Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu outside of the included welcome and farewell dinners
Alcoholic and soft beverages
Personal clothing and climbing equipment
Personal first aid kit
Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

Personalised Guidance

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification

IFMGA / IVBV / UIAGM

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Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From

€6,600

per person

→ Group Expedition
→ 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
→ Well-Planned Itinerary
→ Fixed Group Schedule
→ Minimum 3 Participants
→ Professionally Guided
→ Excellent Value
→ Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers

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Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From

€9,900

per person

→ Private Expedition
→ 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
→ Fully Tailored Itinerary
→ Flexible Scheduling
→ Premium Value
→ Heli flights IN / OUT
→ Premium, Personalized Experience
→ Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience

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Common Questions

FAQs

Mera Peak (6,476m) is the highest trekking peak in Nepal, located in the Hinku Valley of the Mahalangur Himalayas. It is special for one primary reason above all others: from its summit, five of the world's ten highest mountains are visible simultaneously — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga. This panorama is among the most extraordinary available on any 6,000-metre peak in the world. The mountain was first climbed in 1953 by Colonel Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing and has been a highly sought-after objective for experienced trekkers and high-altitude climbers ever since.

GUIDING BEYOND THE SUMMIT

Expedition Report

Kyajo Ri Expedition Report 2022

This report follows the climb from Kathmandu to the summit of Kyajo Ri (6,186m), through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and the quiet Khumjung valley, up to a base camp shared with fresh snow leopard tracks, and finally to a 7:58 a.m. summit reached with no other team on the mountain. If you're researching Kyajo Ri expedition before booking your own climb, this report also covers what most climbers want to know: how technical it is, how it compares to other Khumbu trekking peaks, and what the summit push really involves. Expedition Overview • Peak: Kyajo Ri, 6,186 m (20,296 ft) • Region: Khumbu Region, between the Gokyo and Thame valleys, Everest Region, Nepal • Summit Date: 3 May 2022 • Starting Point: Kathmandu, via mountain flight to Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport) • Route: Lukla → Phakding → Namche Bazaar → Khumjung → Base Camp (4,550 m) → Camp 1 (acclimatization) → High Camp (5,300 m) → Summit, climbed in alpine style • Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff • Weather: Clear and stable on summit day, which made the demanding alpine-style push possible Kyajo Ri is classified as a Group A trekking peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, but don't let that label undersell it. It's widely considered more technical than neighboring peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche East, with sustained sections of ice, rock, and snow that call for real alpine climbing skills rather than a straightforward walk-up. Full Expedition Report Kathmandu to Phakding The expedition began with a 30-minute mountain flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. We had lunch there with a beautiful view over the airport before setting off on a short hike down to Phakding village to spend the first night on the trail. Phakding to Namche Bazaar The trail to Namche Bazaar crosses several bridges, including the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest in the region. The final kilometers climb steeply, but the views make you forget the effort. Arriving in Namche, we had a warm welcome from the local Sherpa community and settled into the Sherpa Barista Home lodge for the next two nights. Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar We spent two days in Namche to acclimatize, using the time to visit local cultural museums and get to know the Sherpa community a little better. We also hiked up to the Everest View Point, both for altitude adjustment and for a first look at the highest mountain in the world. Namche Bazaar to Khumjung From Namche, we continued to Khumjung village at 3,800 m, where we stayed overnight, rested, and made our final preparations before heading toward Kyajo Ri base camp. Khumjung to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4,550 m) Leaving Khumjung, the trail climbed over a steep hill before opening into a flat valley, where we set up base camp at 4,550 m. Acclimatization at Base Camp and Camp 1 We spent two nights at base camp to acclimatize, including a hike up to Camp 1 to adjust to the higher elevation. The route to Camp 1 crosses moraine terrain, with striking views the whole way. This remote valley is also home to more wildlife than you'd expect — on the way up, we spotted fresh snow leopard tracks in the snow, left just minutes before we arrived. It's a reminder of how wild and untouched this part of the Khumbu still is. Base Camp to High Camp (5,300 m) From base camp, we moved up to a high camp set between Camp 1 and Camp 2, at 5,300 m. We slept for only a few hours before the summit push. With no other teams climbing Kyajo Ri that season, the camps and the mountain itself were entirely ours. Summit Day (3 May 2022) We left high camp at 1:00 a.m. Climbing in true alpine style through the night was demanding — the route mixed ice, rock, and deep snow, and with no other team having climbed the mountain that period, there was no packed trail to follow. Every section had to be worked out as we went. The summit push was long and hard because of the snow conditions, but the weather stayed perfect throughout, which made it possible to keep pushing despite the difficulty. At 7:58 a.m., we reached the summit of Kyajo Ri. With the entire mountain to ourselves, we took time to enjoy the spectacular views before beginning the descent back to base camp. Return to Namche Bazaar Everyone made it back safely to Namche Bazaar to rest, tired but glad to be down. Safety remained the priority from the first step in Lukla to the last one back in Namche — and it's that same approach we carry into every expedition that follows. Challenges • Climbing alpine style through the night with no packed trail to follow, since no other team had climbed the mountain that season • Mixed technical terrain — ice, rock, and deep snow — on the summit push • Difficult snow conditions that made the summit push longer and more physically demanding than expected • A short rest window at high camp (5,300 m) before a 1:00 a.m. departure • Multiple staged acclimatization stops (Namche, Khumjung, base camp, Camp 1) needed to prepare the body for a technical push above 5,000 m Highlights • Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest bridge in the region • A first view of Everest from the Everest View Point above Namche Bazaar • Fresh snow leopard tracks spotted on the way to Camp 1 • Having the high camp — and the entire mountain — to ourselves for the whole climb • Reaching the summit at 7:58 a.m. under a perfectly clear sky • The warm welcome and cultural museums experienced in Namche Bazaar Safety Kyajo Ri doesn't forgive careless decisions, and this climb reinforced why. With no other team on the mountain and no trail already broken, every route-finding call during the night push mattered. We built the itinerary around layered acclimatization — two nights in Namche, an overnight in Khumjung, two nights at base camp with a hike to Camp 1 — before committing to a high camp at 5,300 m and the summit push. That staged approach, combined with careful pacing through the mixed ice, rock, and snow terrain, is what allowed the team to reach the summit and return safely despite the difficult conditions. Safety is our number one priority at Alpinist Climber Expeditions, and on a peak as technical and remote as Kyajo Ri, that meant leaning fully on the judgment of our IFMGA-certified guide and experienced Sherpa climbing staff at every stage of the climb. Conclusion Kyajo Ri gave us a mountain entirely to ourselves — no crowds, no packed trail, just our team working through ice, rock, and snow toward a 7:58 a.m. summit. It's a climb that demands more than most trekking peaks in the Khumbu, and it rewards that effort with a kind of solitude that's increasingly rare in this region. The snow leopard tracks near Camp 1 stay with us as a reminder of how wild this valley still is, and how much respect a mountain like Kyajo Ri deserves. We're grateful for the safe climb, the clear weather on summit day, and the team that made it happen. If a technical, less-crowded Himalayan summit is what you're after, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, guided Kyajo Ri expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming departures to see what's next.

May 03, 2022 Read Article →

MERA PEAK LUXURY EXPEDITION

Trip Summary

Trip Overview