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Prakash Sherpa

Biography


Prakash Sherpa is the founder and CEO of Alpinist Climber Expeditions (ACE), and a certified IFMGA Mountain Guide, one of the most demanding qualifications a mountaineer can hold anywhere in the world. Since 2011, he has worked professionally as a mountain guide, building a career shaped by technical mastery, rigorous international training, and an unrelenting passion for high altitude climbing. Over more than a decade in the mountains, he has led climbers across some of the most extreme terrain on Earth, from Nepal's towering 8,000m giants to the technical faces of Europe and New Zealand, earning a reputation as one of the region's most accomplished and trusted guides. That same experience now shapes how he leads Alpinist Climber Expeditions today.

 

 

A family legacy in the mountains

 

Prakash didn't discover the mountains on his own. He was raised into them. His grandparents, father, and uncle were all respected mountain guides in their time, and it was under their guidance that Prakash took his first real steps into the profession that would define his life. At just 15 years old, he summited Mera Peak (6,476m) for the first time, a moment that set the direction for everything that followed. There was no turning back from there. Opportunities to work and climb in high mountains around the world began opening up, taking him from the Himalayas to the Alps of Europe and the Southern Alps of New Zealand.

 

 

8,000m summits, four without oxygen

 

Over the years, Prakash has built one of the most demanding climbing records among Nepal's mountain guides. He has successfully summited six of the world's fourteen 8,000m peaks: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu and K2. What sets his record apart is that four of these, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, and Manaslu, were climbed without supplementary oxygen, a feat that demands not just physical strength but an intimate understanding of how the body performs in the death zone. His technical range extends further still, with summits of Nuptse, Pumori, and Ama Dablam, peaks known as much for their difficulty as their beauty.

 

 

Certified at the highest level

 

Prakash holds the IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV Mountain Guide certification, the same internationally recognised qualification held by only a small number of guides across Nepal. His training goes well beyond climbing technique, covering Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Advanced and Basic Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Recco Rescue, and multiple levels of ski training completed across Nepal, Switzerland, Austria, and Chamonix. This layered training, built over more than a decade, is what allows him to lead expeditions with the calm, decisive judgment that high altitude mountaineering demands.

 

 

A career that spans continents

 

Between 2018 and 2025, Prakash summited Mount Everest five times and added a summit of K2 in 2025, cementing his place among guides with proven experience on the world's most extreme peaks. His expedition record below 8,000m is just as extensive, with dozens of climbs across Nepal's most technical mountains, Ama Dablam, Kyajo Ri, Lobuche East, Mera Peak, Island Peak, Baruntse, and Himlung Himal among them, including a notable 2022 speed ascent of Himlung Himal alongside German alpinist Benedikt Böhm.

 

His guiding work has also taken him abroad, leading climbs across New Zealand's Southern Alps, including Mount Cook and Mount Aspiring, and across the Alps of Europe, from the Matterhorn to Grossglockner. Alongside his expedition career, Prakash has guided trekkers through nearly every major trekking region in Nepal, from the Everest Base Camp and Three Passes treks to remote routes like Upper and Lower Dolpo and the Makalu Base Camp Trek.

 

 

Guiding Beyond The Summit

 

Today, Prakash leads Alpinist Climber Expeditions with the same discipline and care that shaped his own climbing career. As CEO, he ensures every expedition is built on thorough preparation, technical precision, and a genuine focus on each climber's safety and experience, standing on the summit is the goal, but for Prakash, the job isn't done until every climber is safely back down and carrying home a story worth telling.

 

He is a member of the IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV, the NNMGA, and Alpenverein Austria, and has been a sponsored athlete with Dynafit since 2021.

 

 

Mountaineering Training

  • IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV Mountain Guide Training
  • Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling
  • Ski Level 1 Training (Nepal)
  • Ski Level 2 Training (Switzerland)
  • Ski Training (Chamonix)
  • Advance Mountaineering Training
  • Basic Mountaineering Training
  • Basic Rescue Training
  • Wilderness First Aid Training
  • Rock Climbing Level One Training
  • Ski Training (Austria)
  • Recco Rescue Training
  • First Aid Training
  • Maps and Compass Reading
  • Trekking Guide Training

 

Above 8000m Expeditions

  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2018
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2019
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2021
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2024
  • Mount Everest 8,848m / 2025
  • Mount K2 8,611m / 2025
  • Mount Lhotse 8,516m / 2021
  • Mount Makalu 8,463m / 2016
  • Mount Cho Oyu 8,188m / 2023
  • Mount Dhaulagiri 8,167m / 2017
  • Mount Manaslu 8,163m / 2017

 

Above 6000m & 7000m Expeditions

  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2017)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2018)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2019)
  • Cholatse 6,440m (2022)
  • Kyajo Ri 6,186m (2022)
  • Chulu West 6,419m (2016)
  • Lobuche east 6,119m (2022)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2021)
  • Island Peak 6,189m (2012)
  • Lobuche East 6,119m (2018)
  • Lobuche East 6,119m (2019)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2012)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2013)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2015)
  • Amphu Peak 6120m (2020)
  • Himlung Himal 7126m (2022)
  • Lobuche East 6119m (2022)
  • Ama Dablam 6,812m (2022)
  • Mera Peak 6,476m (2022)
  • Baruntse 7,162m (2022)
  • Himlung Himal 7126m (2022 - Speed Ascent)
  • Island Peak 6,160m (2023)
  • Pumori 7,161m (2023)
  • Nuptse 7,861m (2023)
  • Nirekha 6,159m (2024)
  • Spantik 7027m (2024)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2024)
  • Cholatse 6440m (2024)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2025)
  • Kyajo Ri 6186m (2025)

 

Guiding & Climbing in New Zealand

  • Mount Cook 3724m (2019)
  • Mount Aspiring 3083m (2019 - 2 times)
  • Mount Dixon 3004m (2019)
  • Tasman Glacier, Hochstein 3000m (2019)
  • Remarkables 2319m (2019 - 2 times)

 

Europe Alps

  • Grossglocker 3798m
  • Matterhorn 4778m
  • Mount Olympus 2918m

 

Member

  • IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV
  • NNMGA
  • Alpenvereins Austria

 

Athlete

  • Since 2021 with Dynafit
  • Former Brand Ambassador of EBC-5364
Client Stories

From the Summit

DP
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

”
Verified Client Story
MS
Mr. Smargiasso Luca
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

”
Verified Client Story
AT
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

”
Verified Client Story
RK
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!

”
Verified Client Story
LB
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!

”
Verified Client Story
CJ
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.

”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry
Expedition Report

High Altitude Kit List: What our IFMGA Guides Actually Carry

Climbing at high altitude demands more than strength and determination — it requires the right equipment, careful preparation, and the ability to respond to changing mountain conditions. Our IFMGA-certified mountain guides carry specialized gear not only for their own safety but for the well-being of the entire team. Their packs are carefully organized with technical climbing equipment such as harnesses, helmets, crampons, ice axes, carabiners, ascenders, descenders, and safety slings, allowing them to manage steep snow, ice, and glacier terrain. Depending on the route, they may also carry snow pickets, ice screws, and extra rope for protection and rescue situations. Safety Safety is always the top priority, so guides include a comprehensive high-altitude first aid kit, emergency bivy sack, crevasse rescue gear, and reliable communication devices such as satellite phones or radios. Navigation tools like GPS units and altimeter watches help maintain route accuracy, especially in poor visibility. Proper clothing is equally critical in extreme environments, and guides rely on a layering system that includes moisture-wicking base layers, insulating mid-layers, expedition-weight down jackets, and waterproof outer shells. They also carry multiple gloves, glacier sunglasses, goggles, and face protection to guard against wind, cold, and intense UV exposure. Navigation & Planning Tools Even on established routes, visibility can drop suddenly due to storms or whiteouts. Guides carry: Detailed route knowledge and maps GPS waypoints Weather updates via communication devices Climbing plan with turnaround times Decision-making tools are just as important as physical gear. At high altitude, the smallest item can make a life-saving difference. Our IFMGA guides pack with purpose, balancing weight with safety and efficiency. Their experience ensures that nothing essential is left behind — because in the mountains, preparation is everything.

Sep 15, 2025 Read Article →
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