NIREKHA EXPEDITION
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NIREKHA EXPEDITION

duration icon
Duration
17 Days
altitude icon
Max Altitude
6,159m
group icon
Group Size
Max 2 - 4

Trip Summary

Nirekha Peak sits at the eastern end of the Cho La Col — the high glaciated pass that connects the Khumbu and Gokyo valleys. The peak is part of the same ridge chain as the Lobuche summits and stands close to the Tibetan border, tucked between the well-known giants of Everest, Cho Oyu, and Cholatse. Despite this exceptional location, it sees a fraction of the climber traffic that its neighbours attract.

 

The first ascent of Nirekha was completed in April 2003 by Matt Florets and Greg Valentine. The second ascent followed in October 2003, completed by an all-women team. Since its official opening as a permitted climbing peak in 2006, the mountain has remained one of the least-visited objectives in the region — a distinction that makes it all the more appealing for climbers who value authenticity and solitude over well-trodden routes.

 

The summit has two pyramid tops. The North Summit at 6,159m is the true summit and the objective of our expedition. The North Summit requires crossing a crevasse section but is the more accessible of the two tops. The South Summit demands a single pitch of steep 50-degree ice. Both options sit above a long summit ridge with spectacular exposure in every direction.

 

The approach to Base Camp follows the Gokyo valley — one of the most beautiful trekking corridors in all of Nepal. The trail passes through the Gokyo Lakes, which are the world's highest freshwater lakes, and alongside the Ngozumpa Glacier, the longest glacier in Nepal. This approach is not just a means to an end. It is a journey worth making in its own right.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
17 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,159m
Summit of NIREKHA EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 2 - 4
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
Trip overview background

Trip Description

Nirekha Peak (6,159m) is one of Nepal's most recently opened climbing peaks and one of its best-kept secrets. Sitting within the Mahalangur Himal of the Everest region, just east of the Cho La Col, the peak shares its ridge with the Lobuche summits and stands in the company of some of the most iconic mountains on earth. Yet Nirekha itself remains almost entirely uncrowded. Very few expeditions have made it to the summit since its first ascent in April 2003.

 

The peak was added to Nepal's official list of permitted climbing peaks in 2006, making it one of the newer entries in the region. Its relative obscurity is not a reflection of its quality — from the summit, the panorama stretches across Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, Pumori, Cholatse, and Tawache.

 

The route to the summit approaches from north of the Cho La Col, following the Gokyo valley through Namche Bazaar and reaching Base Camp at 4,950m via the glacial terrain near Thangnak. Rated AD+/D- on the alpine scale, the climb involves steep snow and ice, some fixed rope sections, and a summit ridge with two pyramid tops — the North Summit at 6,159m being the true summit. The terrain is technical but manageable for climbers with solid prior experience at altitude.

 

At Alpinist Climber Expeditions, our 17-day Nirekha itinerary is built around a structured acclimatization schedule that takes full advantage of the Gokyo valley approach — including an ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,360m) for acclimatization before moving to the technical climbing phase. Every expedition is guided by IFMGA-certified professionals with deep knowledge of this terrain.

 

Expedition Highlights

 

  • One of Nepal's newest and least-climbed 6,000m peaks — a genuinely uncrowded objective

  • Approach through the spectacular Gokyo valley, home to the world's highest freshwater lakes

  • Acclimatization ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,360m) with views of four 8,000m peaks

  • Semi-technical summit route — suitable for climbers with prior 6,000m experience

  • 360-degree summit panorama: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Ama Dablam, and more

  • Two summit pyramids on the ridge — the North Summit is the true high point at 6,159m

  • Option for 1:1 private summit experience with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

 

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

 

Nirekha may be semi-technical in grade, but the conditions on the upper mountain — steep ice, crevasse crossings, and a committing summit ridge require guides who have the technical skill and high-altitude experience to manage the climb safely and confidently. Every Nirekha expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions is led by fully certified IFMGA professionals.

 

Our guiding team holds IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV certification — the highest internationally recognised standard in mountain guiding, supported by training in Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Advanced Mountaineering, Basic Rescue, and Rock Climbing. These are not qualifications for the CV. They are capabilities built over careers spent guiding on serious terrain.

 

Mr. Prakash Sherpa, our lead IFMGA Mountain Guide and CEO, has over 15 years of professional high-altitude experience, beginning his career at the age of 15. He has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nuptse, and Pumori — several without supplemental oxygen. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA).

 

For those seeking the most personal level of mountain guidance available, the premium 1:1 option places you on Nirekha alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly — an experience that is rare on any 6,000-metre peak.

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions will meet you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfer you to your accommodation in Kathmandu. Once settled, you will be introduced to your expedition guide for an informal welcome briefing. The evening is yours to rest, explore, and experience the city before the mountain journey begins.

Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

The morning begins with a full expedition briefing — route overview, safety protocols, equipment checks, permit documentation, and Ministry of Tourism formalities. The afternoon is spent visiting several of Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including ancient temples, Buddhist stupas, and historic Newari courtyards. This is also the day you receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag and cap at the team meeting, and confirm your packing for the days ahead.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 5–10 km (city tour) Minimal
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) takes approximately 35 minutes, with sweeping views of the Himalayan range as dawn light catches the peaks. After landing and a final equipment check, the trek begins through pine and rhododendron forest along the Dudh Koshi River valley. Phakding makes for a comfortable first night on the trail.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km −250 m
Lodge
Location icon 2,610m

Today's trail follows the Dudh Koshi River through the Sagarmatha National Park entrance checkpoint at Monjo before climbing steeply to Namche Bazaar — the main hub of the Khumbu valley. The final ascent rewards you with your first open views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam. Namche is a lively settlement with guesthouses, restaurants, and a well-stocked market for any last-minute supplies.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~10 km +830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

A full day in Namche to begin the acclimatization process. A hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m allows the body to gain altitude during the day while returning to sleep lower — a key principle in safe altitude adaptation. The views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Thamserku from this ridge are among the finest accessible on foot in the region.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 5–8 km +350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

Leaving Namche, the trail climbs northwest through Mong La and Phortse Thanga before ascending into the upper Gokyo valley. The route enters quieter, less-travelled terrain as the main Everest Base Camp trail falls away to the right. Dole sits at the edge of the rhododendron and juniper zone, with open views of the surrounding ridgelines.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~11 km +760 m (3,440 m → 4,200 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,200m

A steady climb through open alpine terrain leads to Machhermo, a small settlement above the Dudh Koshi River. The trail offers expanding views of the valley ahead and the first glimpses of the high peaks bordering the Gokyo basin. Machhermo is a useful stopping point for further acclimatization before the push to Gokyo.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~7 km +270 m (4,200 m → 4,470 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,470m

The trail today passes a series of sacred glacial lakes — the Gokyo Lakes — which are the world's highest freshwater lakes. The path runs alongside the western edge of the Ngozumpa Glacier, Nepal's longest glacier, before arriving at Gokyo village on the shore of the third lake, Dudh Pokhari. The setting is extraordinary — still water, moraine, and a ring of high peaks on every horizon.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~7 km +320 m (4,470 m → 4,790 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,790m

An early start for the ascent of Gokyo Ri (5,360m) — a straightforward but rewarding climb that provides one of the most famous viewpoints in the Everest region. From the top, four of the world's ten highest mountains are visible simultaneously: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Cho Oyu. This ascent also serves as a vital acclimatization step before moving to Base Camp.

 

After descending from Gokyo Ri and breakfast at the lodge, the team crosses the Ngozumpa Glacier to Thangnak — a small settlement at the foot of the Cho La Col, which will be crossed the following morning.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–8 hrs ~10 km +570 m (4,790 m → 5,360 m, then descend to Thangnak ~4,700m)
Lodge
Location icon 5,360m

From Thangnak, the trail climbs toward the Cho La Col (5,368m) — a glaciated high pass marked by prayer flags and stone cairns. Just before the col, a small trail branches north away from the main pass and descends toward the glacial moraine beneath Nirekha Peak. Base Camp at 4,950m is established here, tucked into a sheltered position with the mountain rising directly above.

 

The views from Base Camp are immediate and impressive — Nirekha's summit ridge is clearly visible, as are the surrounding massifs of Cholatse, Ama Dablam, and the distant silhouette of Everest to the east.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
7–9 hrs ~10 km +620 m / −670 m (cross Cho La Pass ~5,420m, arrive at Base Camp 4,950m)
Camp
Location icon 4,950m

A full rest and preparation day at Base Camp. Your IFMGA guide leads a structured training session covering the technical skills required for the climb ahead: crampon technique, ice axe use, rope management, jumar operation, and safe movement on fixed lines. Crevasse awareness and self-arrest procedure are also covered. This session is not a formality — it is hands-on preparation that directly contributes to a safe and successful summit.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs 2–4 km +100–200 m (training around Base Camp)
Camp
Location icon 4,950m

Leaving Base Camp, the route begins across snow-covered glacier terrain before steepening onto the lower flanks of the Southwest-facing slope. High Camp at approximately 5,300m is reached after several hours of climbing. Tents are pitched, a warm meal is prepared, and the team rests carefully in preparation for the pre-dawn summit push the following morning.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–6 hrs ~4 km +350 m (4,950 m → 5,300 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,300m

Summit day begins before midnight. Moving by headlamp, the team climbs from High Camp onto the summit ridge. The lower section involves a gradual snow ascent before the angle increases significantly on the approach to the ridge. The route navigates crevasse sections, steep ice, and the exposed ridgeline between the two summit pyramids before reaching the North Summit — the true high point of Nirekha at 6,159m.

 

From the top, the view is one of the finest on any 6,000-metre peak in Nepal — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Nuptse, Cho Oyu, Gyachung Kang, Pumori, Ama Dablam, Tawache, and Cholatse filling the horizon in every direction. After time at the summit, the team descends carefully — using fixed ropes on the steeper sections — back to Base Camp for the night.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–14 hrs ~8 km +859 m (5,300 m → 6,159 m, then descend to Base Camp)
Camp
Location icon 6,159m

A built-in reserve day for weather flexibility. High-altitude conditions in the Khumbu can change quickly, and this buffer ensures that the team has the option to attempt the summit on this day if conditions prevent a safe ascent on Day 13. If the summit has already been reached, this day becomes a comfortable rest and recovery day at Base Camp before the descent begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Camp
Location icon 4,950m

With the climbing phase complete, the team returns via the Cho La Col trail to the Gokyo valley. The familiar path back to Gokyo feels different on the return — lighter, with the mountain already behind you and the valley opening up ahead. The Gokyo Lakes catch the afternoon light as the team arrives for a final night in this exceptional setting.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~8 km −160 m (4,950 m → 4,790 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,790m

The descent follows the Gokyo valley southward through Machhermo and Dole, dropping steadily through the rhododendron forest and back down to Namche Bazaar. The return trail is pleasant and well-paced — a comfortable day's walk after the effort of the upper mountain.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
7–8 hrs ~24 km −1,350 m (4,790 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

An early start for the final trek to Lukla, following the Dudh Koshi River valley through Phakding and past familiar Sherpa villages. The flight back to Kathmandu marks the official end of the expedition. Depending on your departure time, the afternoon is free for a final walk through the city, a last meal, and the journey home. A private transfer to the airport is arranged.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs trek + 35 min flight Trek: ~18 km, Flight: ~138 km −2,110 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m → 1,330 m)
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

Quick facts: ~6,159m | Khumbu region, near the Cho La Pass between Gokyo and Lobuche | Best season: spring & autumn | Technical, rarely climbed peak

 

Overview

 

Nirekha is a hidden gem of the Khumbu, tucked between giants like Everest, Cholatse, and Cho Oyu, yet climbed by very few parties each year. Because it was only opened relatively recently, the mountain still feels genuinely remote, and climbers are rewarded with sweeping panoramas without the crowds found on more famous peaks nearby.

 

Route & Character

 

The trek follows the classic Gokyo Lakes route before branching off near the Cho La Pass towards Nirekha’s base camp, typically set between 4,900–5,000m. A high camp at roughly 5,700m sets up the summit push, which is mostly snow and ice climbing on a twin-pyramid summit structure. While not as steep as Cholatse or Kyajo Ri, the bulk of the technical climbing happens above 5,800m, where thinner air makes every movement more demanding.

 

Key Risks & Why They Matter

 

Extended time at extreme altitude: Because the technical climbing is concentrated above 5,800m, climbers must operate carefully in the section of the mountain where oxygen is scarcest — this is why guides build in acclimatisation days lower down before committing to the high camp.

Crevassed glacier terrain: The approach and summit routes cross glaciated ground where crevasses can be hidden under fresh snow, especially after recent storms; roped travel and careful route-finding by the guide team are essential to avoid a fall into a hidden crevasse.

Limited route information: As one of the less-frequented peaks, Nirekha doesn’t have the well-worn, clearly marked trail of busier mountains, so route-finding relies heavily on guide experience — conditions can vary noticeably from one season to the next.

Weather exposure on summit day: The twin-summit ridge offers little shelter, so a sudden change in wind or visibility on summit day can quickly turn a manageable climb into a dangerous one, which is why summit timing is decided on the day based on conditions.

 

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

Equipment List

The list below covers the essential personal gear for a Nirekha Peak expedition. Personal clothing and technical climbing equipment are not included in the package price. All items should be sourced, well-fitted, and tested before departure. Do not bring gear you have not used before.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • UV-protective sunglasses (category 4 recommended)

  • Buff or thin balaclava / face mask

 

Handwear

  • Lightweight fleece or wool inner gloves

  • Gore-Tex outer mitten gloves

 

Clothing

  • Gore-Tex waterproof jacket

  • Gore-Tex waterproof trousers

  • Hiking trousers

  • Fleece jacket or warm mid-layer — slim enough to layer under your Gore-Tex shell

  • Moisture-wicking base layer top

  • Thermal base layer trousers

  • Down jacket with hood

 

Footwear

  • Well broken-in trekking boots

  • Double-insulated alpine climbing boots

  • Crampons (compatible with alpine boots)

  • Snow gaiters

  • Trekking socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Camp sandals or light slippers

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • Ice axe

  • Sit harness

  • Locking carabiners and belay device

  • Ascender (jumar)

  • Climbing helmet

 

Camping & Trekking Essentials

  • Sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock (for porter loads)

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2)

  • Thermos flask

  • Trekking poles

  • Personal first aid kit

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag

  • Medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ including lip balm with sun protection

  • Hand sanitizer and handwash

  • Toilet paper and wet wipes

Upcoming Departure Dates

Background
October 23 - 11 November, 2026
Premium Package
Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Nirekha Peak climbing permit (royalty fee)
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
  • Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
  • Experienced Sherpa high-altitude support — carry bonus, transport, wages, and equipment
  • Base Camp kitchen crew — wages, insurance, and equipment allowance
  • Porters and yaks to carry expedition gear, food, and supplies
  • All staff accommodation, wages, insurance, and equipment provisions
  • 4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation during the trekking approach and descent
  • Unlimited meals, drinks, and fruits at Base Camp during the expedition
  • High-altitude camp food, EPI gas, and cooking stoves for all members and guides
  • Round-trip Kathmandu to Lukla mountain flight
  • Private vehicle airport pick-up and drop-off in Kathmandu
  • Single private tent at Base Camp per member
  • Comfortable dining tent and toilet tent at Base Camp
  • High camp tents for members and guides
  • Group climbing equipment — rope, ice screws, snow bars, walkie-talkies
  • Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
  • Satellite phone for emergency communication
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag per member
Not Included
  • × International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Meals in Kathmandu (lunch and dinner)
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Drone permit fees (if applicable)
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, climbing Sherpa, Base Camp staff, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From
€ 6,500
per person
  • → Group Expedition
  • → 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
  • → Well-Planned Itinerary
  • → Fixed Group Schedule
  • → Minimum 3 Participants
  • → Professionally Guided
  • → Excellent Value
  • → Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers
Book Standard
Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From
€ 9,900
per person
  • → Private Expedition
  • → 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • → Fully Tailored Itinerary
  • → Flexible Scheduling
  • → Premium Value
  • → Heli flights IN / OUT
  • → Premium, Personalized Experience
  • → Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience
Book Premium

FAQs

Nirekha Peak (6,159m) is a semi-technical climbing peak in the Mahalangur Himal of Nepal's Khumbu region. It sits just east of the Cho La Col, on the same ridge chain as the Lobuche summits, and is surrounded by some of the highest mountains in the world — including Everest, Cho Oyu, and Cholatse. The peak was first climbed in April 2003 and officially opened as a permitted climbing peak in 2006. It remains one of the least-visited 6,000-metre objectives in the Everest region.

Summit
Elevation
N
ACE
Guiding Beyond The Summit
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

Verified Client Story
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

Verified Client Story
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
Verified Client Story
Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
Verified Client Story
Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

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Cholatse Expedition Report 2022
Expedition Report

Cholatse Expedition Report 2022

  Two high camps, a 250m headwall, and a midnight departure into deep snow and crevasses — Cholatse doesn't give up its summit easily. This report picks up right after our team's successful climb of Kyajo Ri, as we turned toward one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu.   This is the story of our Cholatse expedition (6,440m): a trek through Gokyo and across the Ngozumpa Glacier to reach Dragnak, a two-camp summit push through crevasses and steep snow, and a hard-earned summit that made every bit of the effort worth it.   If you're researching Cholatse before booking your own Cholatse expedition package, this report also covers what most climbers ask us: how technical the route really is, what the two-camp system looks like, and what kind of experience you need before attempting it.   Expedition Overview •     Peak: Cholatse, 6,440 m (21,128 ft) •     Region: Khumbu Region, near Gokyo and Dragnak, Everest Region, Nepal •     Summit Date: 15 May 2022 •     Starting Point: Namche Bazaar, via Gokyo and Dragnak •     Route: Namche Bazaar → Gokyo → Dragnak (via the Ngozumpa Glacier) → Base Camp (4,700 m) → Camp 1 (5,600 m) → Camp 2 (5,850 m) → Summit •     Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff •     Weather: Warm and sunny during the base camp rest days, with a long, demanding summit night through deep snow   Cholatse is widely regarded as one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu, with sustained mixed rock, ice, and snow climbing that's often compared to Ama Dablam in difficulty. It's a serious step up from trekking peaks like Kyajo Ri or Lobuche East, which is exactly why our team climbed it directly after Kyajo Ri, using the acclimatization already built up to take on a harder, more committing objective.   Full Expedition Report   Recovery in Namche Bazaar After the successful summit of Kyajo Ri, we headed back to Namche Bazaar for two days to recover and get ready for Cholatse. It was a chance to rest properly before turning toward a much more technical objective.   Gokyo and the Climb to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) From Namche, we ascended to Gokyo, where we spent two days. Gokyo sits beside a large glacial lake, ringed by 6,000m peaks in every direction. We climbed up to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) for a panoramic view over the lake and the surrounding mountains which is one of the best viewpoints in the entire region.   Gokyo to Dragnak via the Ngozumpa Glacier Leaving Gokyo, we hiked to Dragnak, the last village before Cholatse base camp. Getting there means crossing a long glacier flowing down from Mount Cho Oyu — the Ngozumpa Glacier. Along the way we passed several glacier lakes in a striking light-blue color, and at the far end of the glacier, Cho Oyu filled the skyline. We reached Dragnak and spent the rest of the day on final preparations for the climb.   Dragnak to Cholatse Base Camp (4,700 m) The walk to base camp took about an hour and a half from Dragnak. Base camp sits at 4,700 m in a flat valley that yaks wander through during the day to graze on the fresh grass. Our staff welcomed us with hot tea and a good meal as soon as we arrived.   Rest at Base Camp We took two rest days at base camp, though we didn't need much extra acclimatization since we were already adjusted from the Kyajo Ri climb. The days were warm and sunny providing the team with good conditions to relax and prepare gear before the summit push.   Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,600 m) After two days of rest, we left base camp and the summit push began. Because the route to the top is long, we planned it around two camps. On the way to Camp 1 we crossed several crevasses before climbing a 250m headwall. Camp 1 turned out to be a comfortable spot, set on a ridge col.   Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,850 m) The next day we reached Camp 2 — small, exposed, but with a beautiful view in every direction. We rested for a few hours before heading out at midnight for the summit.   Summit Day (15 May 2022) The route from Camp 2 was long, with deep snow and numerous crevasses to negotiate through the night. We reached the summit of Cholatse in the morning, and after taking in the views, descended back to Camp 2 to sleep as the summit day had been long and genuinely tiring.   Return to Base Camp The next day we made it back down to base camp, where we celebrated our Cholatse summit. It had been a hard climb, but the views along the way made us forget about the effort it took to get there.   Challenges •     Multiple crevasse crossings on the way to Camp 1, requiring careful rope work •     A 250m headwall between base camp and Camp 1 •     A small, exposed Camp 2 (5,850 m) with only a few hours of rest before the summit push •     A long midnight summit push through deep snow and numerous crevasses •     A genuinely tiring summit day, requiring a recovery stop at Camp 2 before continuing the descent •     Tackling one of the Khumbu's more technical 6,000m peaks directly after a separate expedition on Kyajo Ri   Highlights •     The panoramic view from Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) over Gokyo Lake and the surrounding 6,000m peaks •     Crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier, with light-blue glacier lakes and Cho Oyu filling the skyline •     Yaks grazing beside base camp during warm, sunny rest days •     A comfortable Camp 1 set on a scenic ridge col •     Reaching the summit of Cholatse after a long, technical night climb •     Celebrating the summit back at base camp with the whole team   Safety Cholatse is not a peak that allows for shortcuts. Multiple crevasse crossings, a 250m headwall, and a long summit night through deep snow all demand careful, deliberate decision-making.   Having already acclimatized on Kyajo Ri gave the team a real advantage heading into Cholatse, reducing the extra rest needed at base camp and letting us focus on the technical demands of the route itself. Splitting the summit push across two camps (5,600 m and 5,850 m) kept the climb manageable, and resting at Camp 2 on the way down after a long summit day was an important call rather than pushing straight through to base camp.   As with every expedition we run, our IFMGA-certified guide and Sherpa climbing staff led the technical sections: the crevasse crossings, the headwall, and the roped travel through deep snow on summit night with safety as the deciding factor at every stage.   Conclusion Climbing Cholatse directly after Kyajo Ri pushed the team in a different way as this wasn't a technical trekking peak, but one of the more serious technical objectives in the Khumbu, with a long two-camp summit push through crevasses and deep snow. It was a hard climb from start to finish.   But the views from Gokyo Ri, across the Ngozumpa Glacier, and finally from the summit itself made the effort worth it. We're grateful for a safe climb, a strong team, and a mountain that earned every bit of our respect.   If a serious technical objective like Cholatse is on your list, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, well-guided climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming expeditions to see what's next.  

May 15, 2022 Read Article →
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