hard

LHOTSE EXPEDITION

8,516m | Khumbu, Nepal

Duration

35 Days

Max Altitude

8,516m

Group Size

Max 2 - 4

Coordinates

27°57′42″ N, 86°56′00″ E

Trip Summary

Lhotse — meaning 'South Peak' in Tibetan was first summited on 18 May 1956 by Ernst Reiss and Fritz Luchsinger of Switzerland via the South Col route, three years after Everest's first ascent. It occupies the same massif as Everest, connected by the South Col at 7,906m and sharing a common approach from the Nepal side. Its summit is the fourth highest point on Earth, below only Everest, K2, and Kangchenjunga — yet it receives a fraction of the expedition activity of any of the three above it.

The mountain has three distinct summits: the main summit at 8,516m, Lhotse Shar at 8,383m, and Lhotse Middle at 8,414m. The main summit via the South Col route is what this expedition targets. The route follows the Everest South Col line through the Khumbu Icefall and Western Cwm before ascending the Lhotse Face — a steep blue-ice slope that sits directly below Camp 3 at 7,200m. This section is shared with Everest climbers, but above Camp 3 the routes separate. Lhotse continues directly up the face toward the Couloir rather than traversing left toward the South Col.

The Lhotse Couloir is the mountain's defining feature. From approximately 7,800m, the route enters a compressed ice gully that rises at a sustained steep angle to the summit. The ice in this section is often hard and blue, requiring precise crampon technique and confident movement on fixed ropes in terrain that offers very little margin for error. Wind is channelled and concentrated through the Couloir, and the exposure increases sharply as altitude is gained. Above 8,000m in this terrain, the demands are unlike those of any other section of the South Col route — and significantly different from the open, ridge-following approach to Everest's summit above the South Col.

Lhotse holds a specific respect among high-altitude climbers that is not always reflected in its public profile. The Couloir has turned back more experienced 8,000-metre climbers than most other technical sections in the range. It is a mountain that rewards exactly the kind of preparation — technical competence at altitude, disciplined acclimatization, and the judgment to manage steep ground above 8,000m — that a serious expedition company and IFMGA guiding can provide.

At A Glance

Trip Overview

Duration

35 Days

Including travel days

Max Altitude

8,516m

Summit of LHOTSE EXPEDITION

Best Season

Spring

Ideal climbing window

Group Size

Max 2 - 4

Small team support

Region

Khumbu Region

Expedition location

Grade

Hard

High-altitude guided climb

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Trip Description

Lhotse stands at 8,516 metres — the fourth highest mountain in the world, immediately south of Everest and sharing its western flank with the most famous mountain on Earth. Despite that proximity, Lhotse draws a fraction of Everest's annual expedition traffic. That is partly because it sits in Everest's shadow, and partly because the upper mountain is genuinely harder. The Lhotse Couloir — the near-vertical ice gully that defines the final 600 metres to the summit — is one of the most demanding sections on any 8,000-metre peak. Climbers who have done both consistently describe Lhotse's technical difficulty above 8,000 metres as greater than Everest's.

The approach follows the same route as Everest: the Khumbu trek from Lukla through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pheriche to Base Camp at 5,364m. The two mountains share the same Base Camp. The Khumbu Icefall, Camp 1, Camp 2 in the Western Cwm, and the Lhotse Face are all identical to the Everest South Col route. The routes diverge at Camp 3 — Everest continues left toward the South Col, while Lhotse branches right and into the Couloir, a steep and sustained ice gully that narrows as it gains altitude and demands technical competence at 8,000m that has no equivalent on the standard Everest route.

This makes Lhotse an unusual 8,000-metre objective. The approach is well-known, the Icefall is familiar to many, and the infrastructure is established. But the summit itself is a different level of technical demand, a mountain that requires genuine alpine skill in the final section, not just altitude conditioning and physical endurance. Climbers who have already been on the South Col route have a real advantage on the approach. Those who want a true technical 8,000m challenge without the logistics and crowds of an Everest expedition have their answer in Lhotse.

Spring is the only recommended season. The Lhotse Couloir is significantly more dangerous and less climbable in autumn, and the post-monsoon window does not provide the consistent conditions the upper route requires. Spring's pre-monsoon weather pattern, the same window that governs Everest — delivers the most reliable summit days on Lhotse.

Expedition Highlights

Summit Lhotse (8,516m) — the world's fourth highest mountain and one of the most technically demanding 8,000m peaks
The Lhotse Couloir — a near-vertical ice gully above 8,000m that requires genuine technical alpine competence. The defining challenge of the mountain
Shared approach with Everest — the Khumbu trek, Base Camp, and Icefall are familiar ground, while the Lhotse route offers its own distinct summit challenge
Far less crowded than Everest — a serious expedition to a more serious mountain in a quieter environment
Unlimited supplemental oxygen for all members and guides throughout the high-altitude phase
1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day — every member personally accompanied
Government liaison officer included
IFMGA-certified lead guide with personal Lhotse summit experience
Option for a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

Lhotse's upper route demands more of a guide than the standard Everest South Col approach. Managing a rope team through the Lhotse Couloir on hard ice at 8,000m, in cold and often windy conditions, with the summit still several hundred metres above requires a guide who has been in that specific terrain before and whose technical and altitude experience is genuinely equal to the demands of that section.

Every Lhotse expedition organized by Alpinist Climber Expeditions is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized certification in professional mountain guiding. Our lead guides hold additional qualifications in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, and High-Altitude Rescue, all directly applicable to the terrain encountered above Camp 3 on Lhotse.

Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has personally summited Lhotse alongside Everest (five times), K2, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nuptse, Pumori, and many more — several without supplemental oxygen. He has been guiding professionally since the age of 15 with over 15 years of high-altitude experience. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the Lhotse expedition personally.

Day by Day

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — the full expedition team gathers, and your lead guide introduces the route, the team, and the 35 days ahead.

A comprehensive briefing covers the full route — the Khumbu trek, the Icefall, the Lhotse Face, and the specific demands of the Couloir above Camp 3. Safety protocols, oxygen system management, acclimatization plan, and permit formalities are all covered. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is a guided tour of Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	5–10 km (city tour)	Minimal

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) in approximately 35 minutes. The team assembles, loads are organized, and the trek begins along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding. The first day on the trail — familiar ground for many, and one of the finest valley treks in Nepal regardless.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek	Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km	−250 m

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar at 3,440m. The altitude gain is significant and the final two hours to Namche are demanding. The first views of Everest — and of Lhotse's south face rising immediately right of Everest's Southwest Face — appear above the ridge on the final approach. Lhotse's scale from this angle is striking.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~10 km	+830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at 3,800m follows the principle of climbing high and sleeping low. From this ridge, Lhotse's south face is fully visible — a massive wall of rock and ice that rises unbroken from the Khumbu Glacier to the summit at 8,516m. The objective for the next month is directly in view. The afternoon is free in Namche.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–5 hrs (optional hike)	5–8 km	+350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)

The trail descends through rhododendron forest before climbing to Tengboche and its famous monastery. Ama Dablam and Lhotse dominate the view from the monastery ridge. The monastery is one of the most significant Buddhist sites in the Khumbu and worth time before continuing to the overnight lodge.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~10 km	+420 m (includes descent and ascent)

The route passes through Pangboche before climbing to Pheriche at 4,371m. The upper Khumbu opens up here and the altitude is felt clearly. Lhotse's south wall is now very close — the mountain fills the upper valley ahead with a presence that sharpens focus on the weeks to come. Proper hydration and a steady pace are the priorities.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~12 km	+511 m (3,860 m → 4,371 m)

A mandatory acclimatization hike to the top of Nangkartshang at 5,083m above Pheriche. The two to three hour climb delivers the team's first sustained effort above 5,000m and a panoramic view of the Khumbu, Makalu, and the full south wall of Lhotse at close range. The descent returns to Pheriche for the night. This hike is one of the most important altitude adaptation steps in the approach.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–6 hrs	~6 km	+712 m (4,371 m → 5,083 m, return to Pheriche)

The trail climbs through Dughla past the memorial chortens at Thokla — a sobering and meaningful pause that marks the passing of many climbers and Sherpas who have been on these mountains. Above Thokla, the terrain opens onto the high plateau below Lobuche. Lhotse's northwest face is now visible above the Khumbu Glacier, and the Icefall — the first obstacle of the climb — can be seen at the foot of the mountain.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~8 km	+569 m (4,371 m → 4,940 m)

A shorter but demanding walk to Gorak Shep at 5,160m — the last lodge stop before Base Camp. The trail crosses the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and the effects of altitude are pronounced. Kala Patthar rises above the village. Base Camp is less than two hours ahead. The team rests early in preparation for the arrival at Base Camp the following morning.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–4 hrs	~4.5 km	+220 m (4,940 m → 5,160 m)

The final approach to Base Camp crosses glacial moraine on the Khumbu Glacier — rocky, undulating terrain with ice visible on both sides. The Khumbu Icefall rises directly above as Base Camp comes into view. Our Base Camp is equipped with private dome tents per member, hot showers on request, and a well-equipped dining area. The Lhotse Face rises in full scale to the east of the Icefall. The route above is visible from the tent door.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs (round trip via Gorak Shep)	~7 km	+204 m (5,160 m → 5,364 m)

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing led by a lama, attended by every member of the team and all support staff. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. At a Base Camp shared with Everest teams, the Lhotse expedition's Puja carries its own distinct focus — the Couloir above is a different objective, and the ceremony reflects that. The day is otherwise dedicated to rest and equipment organization.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
2–3 hrs	1–3 km	Minimal

This 17-day window is managed entirely in the field by the expedition leader. The daily sequence is determined by weather, route conditions on the Lhotse Face and in the Couloir, and team readiness — it cannot be pre-scripted.

The typical structure: technical training at Base Camp covering Icefall navigation, Couloir-specific ice technique, and oxygen system use → first rotation to Camp 1 (6,065m) at the top of the Icefall and return to Base Camp → second rotation to Camp 2 (6,400m) in the Western Cwm and return → rest at Base Camp and lower villages for recovery → third rotation reaching Camp 3 (7,200m) on the Lhotse Face → recovery at Base Camp → summit push: Camp 1 → Camp 2 → Camp 3 → Camp 4 (7,800m) at the base of the Couloir → summit day through the Lhotse Couloir to 8,516m → descent to Camp 2 and Base Camp.

Summit day from Camp 4 begins in the early hours — typically 10 PM to 1 AM. The Couloir is approached in darkness, with the team moving on fixed rope through increasingly steep and hard ice as altitude is gained. The summit of Lhotse at 8,516m is a narrow, exposed point on the ridge. The descent back through the Couloir requires the same technical attention as the ascent. Unlimited supplemental oxygen is in use above Camp 2 for all members and guides throughout this window.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Multi-day	Varies	+3,152 m (5,364 m → 8,516 m) plus multiple ascents and descents during acclimatization rotations

Base Camp is cleaned and broken down. All tents are struck, equipment packed, and the site left clean per Sagarmatha National Park standards. The team descends to Lobuche — the first lodge night since arriving at Base Camp 19 days earlier. The altitude drop from 5,364m to 4,940m provides immediate physical relief.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–4 hrs	~7 km	−424 m (5,364 m → 4,940 m)

The return trek moves south through the upper Khumbu. The descent through Dughla and past Thokla toward Pangboche is a well-worn trail seen from the other side of the summit. Lhotse's south wall recedes behind as the valley widens below. Pangboche's ancient monastery is a fitting final cultural pause before the lower valley.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~13 km	−955 m (4,940 m → 3,985 m)

The route continues through Tengboche and back to Namche. The descent through rhododendron forest is pleasant and the lower altitude immediately noticeable. Namche is a comfortable night before the last trekking day to Lukla.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~15 km	−545 m (3,985 m → 3,440 m)

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi downstream through Phakding to Lukla. A well-known trail, walked now with the weight of the expedition behind it. Porters are thanked and farewelled. The last night on the trail.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~18 km	−580 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m)

An early flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free. A farewell dinner in the evening is the formal celebration of one of the most serious and technically demanding expeditions in Nepal — the fourth highest mountain on Earth, the Lhotse Couloir, and everything it took to reach it.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
35 min flight	~138 km (air)	−1,530 m (2,860 m → 1,330 m)

Private airport transfer for your outbound flight. The Lhotse Expedition concludes — 35 days from Kathmandu to the world's fourth highest summit and back.

Our Difference

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

What to Expect from Our Team

Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

Expedition Photography

Gallery

Essential Information

Trip Notes

Quick facts: 8,516m | Khumbu region, immediately south of Everest | Best season: spring (Apr–May) & autumn | Graded intermediate-to-difficult – shares Everest's lower route

Overview

Lhotse is the fourth-highest mountain on Earth, connected to Everest by the South Col and sharing the same base camp and lower route. First climbed in 1956 by a Swiss team, it offers climbers the chance to stand on a true 8,000m summit via a route that, while still serious, is considered somewhat less technically demanding than Everest's final stretch — some expeditions even combine both summits in a single trip.

Route & Character

The route follows Everest's South Col line through the Khumbu Icefall, Western Cwm, and up the Lhotse Face to beyond Camp 3. Just past the Yellow Band, the routes diverge: Everest-bound climbers head left toward the Geneva Spur, while Lhotse climbers continue up the face into the narrow Reiss Couloir, an ice gully with sections reaching 50–80°, which leads directly to Lhotse's narrow summit — a point so tight it can only comfortably hold two or three climbers at once.

Key Risks & Why They Matter

The Khumbu Icefall and Lhotse Face: Lhotse shares Everest's two most hazardous lower sections: the unstable, shifting Khumbu Icefall and the steep 50–55° ice wall of the Lhotse Face, where crampons can struggle to bite into hard-packed ice — both demand careful, fixed-rope travel and good timing to avoid icefall and serac collapse.

The Reiss Couloir crux: This narrow, sustained ice gully above Camp 4 is the technical heart of the climb, with pitches reaching up to 80° in places — confident technical ice climbing at extreme altitude is essential, since the couloir offers little room to rest or pass other climbers safely.

A dangerously narrow summit: Lhotse's true summit point is famously cramped, fitting only two to three people at a time — this can create bottlenecks and exposed waiting right at the most extreme point of the climb, so expedition teams manage summit timing carefully to minimise crowding.

Extended altitude exposure: As with all 8,000m peaks, the multi-week rotation schedule between camps exists to manage the real risk of altitude sickness, with the final summit push taking climbers through the oxygen-starved zone above 8,000m where every movement costs significantly more energy.

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

What To Bring

Equipment List

Lhotse's upper route involves hard blue ice in the Couloir at altitudes above 8,000m. Every item of personal equipment must be rated for extreme cold and tested in the field before departure. The quality requirements are identical to Everest — the technical demands are, in some sections, greater.

Clothing

Expedition down suit — highest grade available (Rab, Mountain Hardwear, or equivalent)
Expedition down jacket — best available brand
Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket and over-trousers fitting over alpine boots
Balaclava fully covering nose and face — BUFF or equivalent
Long sleeve thermal shirt and trousers — moisture-wicking base layer
Fleece jacket and fleece trousers

Handwear & Footwear

Thin liner gloves — warm and close-fitting
Down mitts — required above Camp 3
Gore-Tex Primaloft insulated gloves
Mountain gloves — waterproof and windproof
Smartwool mountaineering socks (2 pairs — new)
Ultra-soft running or hiking socks (2 pairs — new)
High-altitude mountaineering boots — La Sportiva G2 Evo or equivalent
Alpine boots for lower camp and lodge use — La Sportiva or Scarpa equivalent

Technical Climbing Equipment

UIAA-tested climbing helmet — Petzl or BD
Sit harness — Petzl or BD
Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system
UV-protective sunglasses
Headlamp with spare Energizer Ultimate Lithium batteries
Ascender (jumar) — Petzl or BD
Abseiling device (ATC guide) — Petzl or BD
Screw gate carabiners — 2 large, 2 small
Bent gate carabiners — 2 medium
6mm cord — 2m and 5m (UIAA tested)
Dynamic 8mm rope — 2m (UIAA tested)
Ice axe — classic alpine type (Petzl, Grivel, or BD)
Crampons compatible with high-altitude boots (Grivel, Petzl, or BD)

General Equipment

Sleeping bag rated to -20°C or colder
45–75 litre rucksack
Large duffel bag with padlock
1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre stainless steel thermos
Personal first aid kit and trekking poles
Swiss army knife or Leatherman multi-tool

Upcoming Departure Dates

Scheduled Departure

Booking Open

April 15 – 28 May, 2027

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Price

€25,500

Available Seats

Package Type

Standard Package

What's Covered

Includes & Excludes

Included

Lhotse climbing royalty fees
Sagarmatha National Park entry permit and TIMS card
Summit route fixing and SPCC fees
Government liaison officer — wages, insurance, and transportation
Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and insurance
Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — 1:1 ratio on summit day. Wages, summit bonus, equipment, full insurance
Base Camp cook and kitchen support — wages, insurance, and equipment allowance
Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (4 nights)
Full-board lodge accommodation during the trek approach and return
Single dome tent per member at Base Camp with hot shower
High camp tents at Camp 1, Camp 2, Camp 3, and Camp 4
Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu
Unlimited supplemental oxygen for all members and guides
Oxygen mask and regulator per member and guide
Welcome dinner on Day 01 and farewell dinner on Day 34 in Kathmandu
Full-board meals during the trek approach, Base Camp, and high camps
High-altitude food and provisions for members and guides at all high camps
Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
Internet / WiFi access
Satellite phone for emergency communication
Soft drink beverages
Walkie-talkie radios for team coordination on the mountain
Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member

Not Included

International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
Nepal entry visa fees
Personal clothing and climbing equipment
Special drone permit fees
Climbing Sherpa summit bonus
Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
Tips for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and all staff

Personalised Guidance

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification

IFMGA / IVBV / UIAGM

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Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From

€25,500

per person

→ Group Expedition
→ 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
→ Well-Planned Itinerary
→ Fixed Group Schedule
→ Minimum 3 Participants
→ Professionally Guided
→ Excellent Value
→ Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers

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Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From

€39,900

per person

→ Private Expedition
→ 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
→ Fully Tailored Itinerary
→ Flexible Scheduling
→ Premium value
→ Heli flights IN / OUT
→ Premium, Personalized Experience
→ Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience

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Common Questions

FAQs

Lhotse and Everest share the same approach — the same Khumbu trek, the same Base Camp, the same Khumbu Icefall, the same Western Cwm, and the same Lhotse Face up to Camp 3. Above Camp 3, the routes separate. Everest climbers traverse left toward the South Col. Lhotse climbers continue directly up the face and into the Lhotse Couloir — a near-vertical ice gully that rises to the summit at 8,516m. The Couloir is technically more demanding than any section of the standard Everest South Col route above Camp 3. Climbers who have done both consistently describe Lhotse's upper mountain as the harder climb, despite being 333 metres lower than Everest.

GUIDING BEYOND THE SUMMIT

Expedition Report

Kyajo Ri Expedition Report 2022

This report follows the climb from Kathmandu to the summit of Kyajo Ri (6,186m), through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and the quiet Khumjung valley, up to a base camp shared with fresh snow leopard tracks, and finally to a 7:58 a.m. summit reached with no other team on the mountain. If you're researching Kyajo Ri expedition before booking your own climb, this report also covers what most climbers want to know: how technical it is, how it compares to other Khumbu trekking peaks, and what the summit push really involves. Expedition Overview • Peak: Kyajo Ri, 6,186 m (20,296 ft) • Region: Khumbu Region, between the Gokyo and Thame valleys, Everest Region, Nepal • Summit Date: 3 May 2022 • Starting Point: Kathmandu, via mountain flight to Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport) • Route: Lukla → Phakding → Namche Bazaar → Khumjung → Base Camp (4,550 m) → Camp 1 (acclimatization) → High Camp (5,300 m) → Summit, climbed in alpine style • Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff • Weather: Clear and stable on summit day, which made the demanding alpine-style push possible Kyajo Ri is classified as a Group A trekking peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, but don't let that label undersell it. It's widely considered more technical than neighboring peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche East, with sustained sections of ice, rock, and snow that call for real alpine climbing skills rather than a straightforward walk-up. Full Expedition Report Kathmandu to Phakding The expedition began with a 30-minute mountain flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. We had lunch there with a beautiful view over the airport before setting off on a short hike down to Phakding village to spend the first night on the trail. Phakding to Namche Bazaar The trail to Namche Bazaar crosses several bridges, including the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest in the region. The final kilometers climb steeply, but the views make you forget the effort. Arriving in Namche, we had a warm welcome from the local Sherpa community and settled into the Sherpa Barista Home lodge for the next two nights. Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar We spent two days in Namche to acclimatize, using the time to visit local cultural museums and get to know the Sherpa community a little better. We also hiked up to the Everest View Point, both for altitude adjustment and for a first look at the highest mountain in the world. Namche Bazaar to Khumjung From Namche, we continued to Khumjung village at 3,800 m, where we stayed overnight, rested, and made our final preparations before heading toward Kyajo Ri base camp. Khumjung to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4,550 m) Leaving Khumjung, the trail climbed over a steep hill before opening into a flat valley, where we set up base camp at 4,550 m. Acclimatization at Base Camp and Camp 1 We spent two nights at base camp to acclimatize, including a hike up to Camp 1 to adjust to the higher elevation. The route to Camp 1 crosses moraine terrain, with striking views the whole way. This remote valley is also home to more wildlife than you'd expect — on the way up, we spotted fresh snow leopard tracks in the snow, left just minutes before we arrived. It's a reminder of how wild and untouched this part of the Khumbu still is. Base Camp to High Camp (5,300 m) From base camp, we moved up to a high camp set between Camp 1 and Camp 2, at 5,300 m. We slept for only a few hours before the summit push. With no other teams climbing Kyajo Ri that season, the camps and the mountain itself were entirely ours. Summit Day (3 May 2022) We left high camp at 1:00 a.m. Climbing in true alpine style through the night was demanding — the route mixed ice, rock, and deep snow, and with no other team having climbed the mountain that period, there was no packed trail to follow. Every section had to be worked out as we went. The summit push was long and hard because of the snow conditions, but the weather stayed perfect throughout, which made it possible to keep pushing despite the difficulty. At 7:58 a.m., we reached the summit of Kyajo Ri. With the entire mountain to ourselves, we took time to enjoy the spectacular views before beginning the descent back to base camp. Return to Namche Bazaar Everyone made it back safely to Namche Bazaar to rest, tired but glad to be down. Safety remained the priority from the first step in Lukla to the last one back in Namche — and it's that same approach we carry into every expedition that follows. Challenges • Climbing alpine style through the night with no packed trail to follow, since no other team had climbed the mountain that season • Mixed technical terrain — ice, rock, and deep snow — on the summit push • Difficult snow conditions that made the summit push longer and more physically demanding than expected • A short rest window at high camp (5,300 m) before a 1:00 a.m. departure • Multiple staged acclimatization stops (Namche, Khumjung, base camp, Camp 1) needed to prepare the body for a technical push above 5,000 m Highlights • Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest bridge in the region • A first view of Everest from the Everest View Point above Namche Bazaar • Fresh snow leopard tracks spotted on the way to Camp 1 • Having the high camp — and the entire mountain — to ourselves for the whole climb • Reaching the summit at 7:58 a.m. under a perfectly clear sky • The warm welcome and cultural museums experienced in Namche Bazaar Safety Kyajo Ri doesn't forgive careless decisions, and this climb reinforced why. With no other team on the mountain and no trail already broken, every route-finding call during the night push mattered. We built the itinerary around layered acclimatization — two nights in Namche, an overnight in Khumjung, two nights at base camp with a hike to Camp 1 — before committing to a high camp at 5,300 m and the summit push. That staged approach, combined with careful pacing through the mixed ice, rock, and snow terrain, is what allowed the team to reach the summit and return safely despite the difficult conditions. Safety is our number one priority at Alpinist Climber Expeditions, and on a peak as technical and remote as Kyajo Ri, that meant leaning fully on the judgment of our IFMGA-certified guide and experienced Sherpa climbing staff at every stage of the climb. Conclusion Kyajo Ri gave us a mountain entirely to ourselves — no crowds, no packed trail, just our team working through ice, rock, and snow toward a 7:58 a.m. summit. It's a climb that demands more than most trekking peaks in the Khumbu, and it rewards that effort with a kind of solitude that's increasingly rare in this region. The snow leopard tracks near Camp 1 stay with us as a reminder of how wild this valley still is, and how much respect a mountain like Kyajo Ri deserves. We're grateful for the safe climb, the clear weather on summit day, and the team that made it happen. If a technical, less-crowded Himalayan summit is what you're after, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, guided Kyajo Ri expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming departures to see what's next.

May 03, 2022 Read Article →

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