hard

KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

6,186m · 6,440m | Khumbu Region, Nepal

Duration

25 Days

Max Altitude

6,440m

Group Size

Max 1 - 4

Coordinates

27°55′05″N, 86°46′00″E

Trip Summary

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

Kyajo Ri sits above Thame village at 6,186 metres on the northwest rim of the Khumbu — a technical peak that sees far fewer ascents than its elevation and quality would suggest. The route rises through Base Camp at 4,550m, Camp 1 at 5,200m, and Camp 2 at 5,700m before the technical upper ridge leads to the summit. Above Camp 2, the terrain is serious: steep mixed ground, exposed ridge sections, and a demanding final approach that separates Kyajo Ri firmly from the trekking peaks category.

In this expedition, Kyajo Ri functions as the structured preparation stage. The mixed terrain on the upper ridge, the sustained effort above 5,500m, and the specific skills developed under IFMGA guide instruction during the summit push provide the direct technical foundation that Cholatse will demand at a higher level. Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up — it is a genuinely difficult 6,000m peak that happens to also be the best possible preparation for what comes next.

Cholatse — 6,440m

Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western boundary of the Khumbu, at the head of the Gokyo Valley. It was first summited in 1982 and remains one of the more serious technical peaks available to climbers at this altitude in Nepal. The route ascends from Base Camp at 4,700m through Camp 1 at 5,600m and Camp 2 at 5,840m, before the upper mountain presents the most demanding ground of the expedition — steep ice and mixed terrain on the final approach to the summit ridge.

The mountain sees relatively few expeditions each season, which contributes to its character: the route is not a heavily trafficked fixed-line highway, and the conditions on the upper mountain require genuine reading and management by the guide team. The summit at 6,440m looks directly across the Ngozumba Glacier toward Cho Oyu, with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu visible to the east and the Gokyo lakes glittering far below. It is a position that rewards the technical commitment required to reach it.

At A Glance

Trip Overview

Duration

25 Days

Including travel days

Max Altitude

6,440m

Summit of KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

Best Season

Spring & Autumn

Ideal climbing window

Group Size

Max 1 - 4

Small team support

Region

Khumbu Region

Expedition location

Grade

Hard

High-altitude guided climb

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Trip Description

The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is one of the most demanding two-peak packages available in the Khumbu. Both mountains are serious technical objectives above 6,000 metres and both require genuine alpine competence to attempt safely. This is not a programme for climbers who are new to technical terrain. It is designed for advanced mountaineers who want a significant challenge and are ready to pursue two difficult summits in a single 25-day expedition.

The expedition begins with Kyajo Ri (6,186m) — not because it is easy, but because it is less demanding than what follows. The three-camp route on Kyajo Ri's upper ridge develops the technical skills, high-altitude rhythm, and physical conditioning that Cholatse's more committing terrain will require. By the time the team crosses the Gokyo Valley toward Cholatse Base Camp, they have stood on a 6,186m technical summit and climbed through steep mixed ground that directly mirrors the lower sections of Cholatse's route.

Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western edge of the Khumbu — a peak with a well-earned reputation for sustained difficulty. The route through three camps involves glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and technically demanding ground on the upper ridge that places this mountain firmly in the category of serious alpine objectives. It sees far fewer ascents than many comparable peaks, and the summit view — directly above the Gokyo lakes with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu filling the northern and eastern horizon is one of the finest in the entire Khumbu.

Prior experience in technical climbing is essential for this expedition. Both peaks demand a certain level of skill, fitness, and mental commitment that cannot be substituted by enthusiasm alone. For those who meet that standard, the Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo is one of the most rewarding 25-day programmes available in Nepal.

Expedition Highlights

Two technical summits — Kyajo Ri (6,186m) as the alpine preparation stage, Cholatse (6,440m) as the primary objective
Cholatse: a serious and rarely crowded 6,440m peak above the Cho La, with a reputation for sustained technical difficulty and exceptional summit views
Kyajo Ri: three-camp technical route above Thame — the ideal preparation for Cholatse's more demanding upper terrain
The full Khumbu approach via Namche, with the Gokyo Valley traversal leading to Cholatse Base Camp
Available in spring, autumn, and winter — one of the few Khumbu combo expeditions with a winter option
IFMGA-certified lead guide and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit days for both peaks
Option for a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa
A total high-altitude challenge that rewards experience, preparation, and commitment in equal measure

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

Cholatse is a mountain that demands experienced, technically competent guiding at every stage of the route. The upper terrain above Camp 2 involves steep ice and mixed climbing that requires sound judgment, technical ability, and the presence of mind to manage a rope team on serious ground at 6,000 metres. An IFMGA-certified guide is not a recommendation for this expedition — it is a requirement.

Every Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized certification in professional mountain guiding. Our guides carry additional qualifications in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Rock Climbing Level One, and High-Altitude Rescue — all applied in the field on every expedition.

Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has been guiding on Himalayan terrain of this standard since the age of 18 — with over 15 years of professional experience and a summit record that includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nuptse, Pumori, and Ama Dablam. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the full expedition personally across both peaks.

Day by Day

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening begins with a welcome dinner — the first chance to meet your guide and fellow team members before the Khumbu journey begins.

A comprehensive briefing covers both peaks — the full route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, and permit logistics. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is free for any final preparation before the flight to Lukla the following morning.

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) with sweeping Himalayan views on the approach. The team assembles in Lukla and loads are organized before the first trekking day begins. The trail descends along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding — a steady, manageable introduction to the Khumbu trail.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek	Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km	−250 m (2,860 m → 2,610 m)

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar — the commercial hub and cultural centre of the Sherpa world at 3,440m. The steep ascent from the river crossing below gains approximately 600 metres and marks the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach. Kyajo Ri's summit is visible on the northwest ridge above Namche from the village itself.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~10 km	+830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m builds altitude exposure above Namche before returning to sleep lower. The route above Namche passes through Khumjung village and delivers views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and — directly — Kyajo Ri above the Thame Valley to the northwest. A first clear look at the first summit ahead.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
3–5 hrs (optional hike)	5–8 km	+350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)

The trail branches northwest from Namche through Khunde — a traditional Sherpa village below the Khunde Hospital, the oldest hospital in the Khumbu. From Khunde, the path climbs steeply toward Thame and then continues above the village to Kyajo Ri Base Camp at 4,550m. The summit ridge of Kyajo Ri dominates the view above — steeper and more serious in appearance than the trail below would suggest.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~13 km	+1,110 m (3,440 m → 4,550 m)

A rest and preparation day at Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Equipment is organized, the route is reviewed in detail with the lead guide, and the team acclimatizes before the serious climbing begins the following morning. The terrain from Camp 1 through Camp 2 and the upper ridge is visible from Base Camp and discussed in full.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	2–4 km	+100–200 m (training/acclimatization hike)

The route from Base Camp climbs through mixed terrain — rock, snow, and the first technical sections of the lower ridge — to Camp 1 at 5,200m. The upper mountain is now fully visible above: the steeper ground between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and the exposed final ridge to the summit are clearly apparent from this vantage. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the more demanding move to Camp 2.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~4 km	+650 m (4,550 m → 5,200 m)

Above Camp 1 the terrain intensifies. Fixed lines protect the steeper sections as the route gains the main ridge through steep snow and mixed ground. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits in a sheltered position on the upper ridge with the Kyajo Ri summit clearly visible above. The Cholatse massif is now visible to the southeast — a first look at the second objective. The team rests carefully in preparation for the summit push.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~3 km	+500 m (5,200 m → 5,700 m)

A reserve day at Camp 2. Weather on the Kyajo Ri upper ridge is unpredictable and the summit cannot safely be attempted in poor conditions. This buffer day protects the summit window without compressing the timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather and route data. If conditions allow on Day 10, the leader may summit and use Day 11 as descent.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	Varies	Varies

The summit push from Camp 2 begins in the early hours. The upper ridge of Kyajo Ri is the most technically demanding ground on this peak — sustained steep terrain, mixed sections, and the final exposed approach to the summit at 6,186m. The view from the top encompasses Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on one side, and the Cholatse massif clearly defined to the southeast — the next objective, now visible from the top of the first. The team descends to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
10–14 hrs	~10 km	+486 m (5,700 m → 6,186 m, then descend to 4,550 m)

From Kyajo Ri Base Camp the team descends back through the Thame trail to Khunde. The altitude drop is significant and the lower valley's warmth is immediately welcome after the time above 5,000m. Khunde provides a proper lodge rest between the two phases of the expedition.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~10 km	−710 m (4,550 m → 3,840 m)

The trail moves east and south from Khunde, joining the Gokyo Valley approach through the Khumbu's less-trafficked western corridor. The route passes through Mong La and descends to the Dudh Koshi before climbing to Dole — a small settlement in the lower Gokyo Valley with fine views of Cho Oyu appearing to the north for the first time. The Gokyo route is quieter than the main Everest trail and the change in atmosphere is noticeable.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–6 hrs	~11 km	+198 m (3,840 m → 4,038 m)

The Gokyo Valley route continues north to Machhermo — a well-established lodge stop on the approach to the Gokyo lakes and Cholatse. The valley narrows and steepens above Dole, and the peaks ahead begin to grow in scale. Machhermo sits at a meaningful altitude and the overnight here serves as useful preparation before the further climb to Cholatse Base Camp the following day.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~7 km	+432 m (4,038 m → 4,470 m)

From Machhermo, the trail branches toward the Cho La and the approach to Cholatse Base Camp at 4,700m. The mountain reveals itself progressively on the approach — its southwest face, the route of ascent, and the sharp summit ridge becoming clearer with every hundred metres of altitude gained. Base Camp is established on solid ground below the lower glacier, with the route above beginning to take shape. The second phase of the expedition formally begins.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~8 km	+230 m (4,470 m → 4,700 m)

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Cholatse Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing ritual attended by every member of the team. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. This ceremony carries the same genuine significance as at any other Base Camp, and on a less-visited peak like Cholatse it has a particularly intimate quality. The day's remainder is for rest, equipment organization, and settling into the altitude ahead of the climbing phase.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	2–3 km	Minimal

The route above Base Camp enters serious terrain quickly. Cholatse's lower glacier approach involves crevassed glacier travel and increasingly steep snow before Camp 1 at 5,600m is reached. This is a significant altitude gain from Base Camp in a single day, and the physical demand of the day reflects the character of the mountain above. Camp 1 is a well-positioned camp with full exposure to the upper route and the conditions that will determine the summit window.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
5–7 hrs	~4 km	+900 m (4,700 m → 5,600 m)

Above Camp 1 the terrain becomes more committed. Steep ice and mixed ground characterize the approach to Camp 2 at 5,840m — the final camp before the summit push. Fixed lines protect the most demanding sections, but the climbing requires the technical competence and altitude conditioning that the Kyajo Ri phase has developed. Camp 2 is an exposed but sheltered position with the upper summit ridge now directly above. The team rests carefully, eating well and managing hydration in preparation for an early summit departure.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~2 km	+240 m (5,600 m → 5,840 m)

A reserve day at Camp 2. Cholatse's upper ridge at nearly 6,000m is exposed to weather systems that move quickly through the Gokyo Valley. This buffer day ensures the team can wait for a proper summit window without compressing the descent or the return timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and conditions on the upper route. If conditions allow, the leader may summit on Day 19 and use Day 20 as the descent day.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
Full Day	Varies	Varies

Summit day begins before dawn from Camp 2. The upper mountain presents the most technical and committing terrain of the full 25-day expedition — steep ice, mixed sections, and the final push along the exposed summit ridge to 6,440m. A 1:1 Climbing Sherpa accompanies each member throughout. The summit of Cholatse delivers an extraordinary panorama: Cho Oyu fills the northwest horizon, the Ngozumba Glacier stretches below toward the Gokyo lakes, and Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu rise to the northeast and east. Two technical summits completed in 25 days.

After time at the top, the team descends methodically to Camp 1. The technical ground above Camp 2 demands the same careful attention on descent as on ascent — the guide team manages the return with the same focus as the climb.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
12–15 hrs	~8 km	+600 m (5,840 m → 6,440 m, then descend to 5,600 m)

A full descent from Camp 1 to Cholatse Base Camp. The camp is broken down over the afternoon and the team prepares for the return trek beginning the following morning. The valley below Base Camp is now a very welcome sight after nearly two weeks above 5,000m on two technical mountains.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
4–5 hrs	~4 km	−900 m (5,600 m → 4,700 m)

The return trek retraces the Gokyo Valley approach in reverse — south through Machhermo and Dole, crossing back into the main Khumbu corridor and arriving in Namche Bazaar by the afternoon. The altitude drop from 4,700m to 3,440m is felt immediately and gratefully.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
8–9 hrs	~21 km	−1,260 m (4,700 m → 4,038 m → 3,440 m)

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River downstream from Namche through Phakding and the familiar lower Khumbu forest to Lukla. The trail is well-known by this point and the pace is easy. Porters are thanked and farewelled in Lukla before the final night on the expedition.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
6–7 hrs	~18 km	−580 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m)

An early morning flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest, a final exploration of Thamel, or souvenir shopping before the farewell dinner in the evening — a proper celebration of 25 days, two 6,000m technical summits, and the commitment it took to reach both of them.

Duration	Distance	Elevation
35 min flight	~138 km (air)	−1,530 m (2,860 m → 1,330 m)

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition concludes — 25 days from Kathmandu to two serious alpine summits and back.

Our Difference

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

What to Expect from Our Team

Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

Expedition Photography

Gallery

Essential Information

Trip Notes

Why This Combination?

Kyajo Ri and Cholatse sit on either side of the Gokyo-Khumbu divide, making this a true traverse of the Khumbu high peaks for experienced alpine climbers. The pairing is well-matched in character: both are serious technical climbs with mixed ground, exposed ridgelines, and minimal crowding, and both reward mountaineers who are looking to push well beyond the trekking-peak standard. Kyajo Ri serves as the first and slightly more accessible of the two, giving climbers strong acclimatisation and a technical warm-up before confronting the considerably steeper and more demanding ground on Cholatse.

Overview

The expedition begins in the Gokyo Valley, approaching Kyajo Ri base camp and moving through the Southwest Ridge route before the team crosses toward the Khumbu side for Cholatse. Cholatse base camp is typically reached via the Cho La Pass, naturally linking the two peaks through one of the Khumbu's most dramatic high passes. By the time climbers begin Cholatse, they will have already spent significant time above 5,500m and completed a summit above 6,100m — solid preparation for a peak that has turned back even accomplished alpinists.

Route & Character

Kyajo Ri's route crosses glaciated terrain and climbs mixed snow, ice, and rock pitches up to 60° on its Southwest Ridge. Cholatse raises the stakes further: the standard Southeast Ridge involves sustained ice and rock climbing, a razor-sharp summit ridge with steep drops on both sides, and limited opportunity to rest or shelter between the camps and the top. The combined route covers two of the most technically demanding peaks open to non-expedition climbers in the Khumbu, making this a standout package for those with prior mixed-climbing experience.

Key Risks & Why They Matter

Highly technical terrain on both peaks: Unlike combo packages that include one moderate peak for acclimatisation, both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse require real technical confidence on mixed ground — Kyajo Ri at up to 60° and Cholatse consistently steeper than that on its upper sections. Climbers without prior experience on this grade of terrain should complete one or both peaks separately before attempting them together.

Cholatse's extreme exposure and narrow ridge: The summit ridge of Cholatse is famously exposed, with sharp drop-offs on both sides leaving minimal margin for error — this is not a peak where fixed ropes compensate for limited technique, and a tired or uncertain climber on this ridge faces a very serious situation.

Icefall and rockfall on Cholatse: Cholatse's steep faces sit above the route in places, meaning ice and rock debris can fall with little warning. Guides time climbing days to move through exposed sections during the coldest, most stable hours of the morning, but this cannot eliminate the hazard entirely.

Cumulative fatigue before the harder peak: Because Cholatse comes second in the itinerary, climbers begin their harder objective already carrying the physical cost of Kyajo Ri — legs, lungs, and nerves have all been tested. This is a normal and manageable part of multi-peak expeditions, but it is why the itinerary builds mandatory rest days between the two summits rather than moving directly from one to the other.

Weather dependency for both summit windows: Two separate summit-quality weather windows are needed across the expedition. Cholatse in particular is intolerant of poor conditions on its exposed upper ridge — a storm that might only delay Island Peak can make Cholatse outright dangerous — and this is why summit decisions are made based on conditions on the day, not on the calendar.

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

What To Bring

Equipment List

This is a 25-day expedition with two serious technical peaks, sustained time above 5,000m, and a summit at 6,440m on committing alpine terrain. Every item on this list should be tested before departure. Equipment must perform in cold, exposed conditions above 5,800m on both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse.

Headwear

Sun hat or lightweight cap
Warm fleece or wool hat
Balaclava or thin face mask
UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 strongly recommended
Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system

Handwear

Thin liner gloves
Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves
Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves
Down mittens — recommended for both summit pushes

Clothing

Expedition-quality down jacket with hood
Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket
Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers
Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer
Fleece or insulated trousers
Thermal base layer — top and bottom
Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)
Light hiking trousers for the trek

Footwear

High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for both peaks
Trekking boots for approach stages
Camp shoes or light slippers
Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)
Snow gaiters

Technical Climbing Equipment

UIAA-approved climbing helmet
Sit harness
Ascender (jumar)
Descending device (ATC guide or similar)
Locking carabiners (4 minimum)
Non-locking carabiners (2)
Ice axe — classic alpine type
Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots
Trekking poles

Sleeping Equipment

Sleeping bag rated to -20°C
Sleeping mat or Thermarest
Sleeping bag liner — recommended

Trekking & Camp Essentials

45-litre rucksack with rain cover
Large duffel bag with padlock
Headlamp with spare batteries
1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre thermos
Personal first aid kit
Personal snacks and energy bars

Hygiene & Sun Protection

Waterproof wash bag and medium towel
Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste
Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection
Hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and toilet paper

What's Covered

Includes & Excludes

Included

Kyajo Ri climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
Cholatse climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
Pasang Lhamu Municipality entry fees
Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses for both peaks, equipment, and full insurance
Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
Single tent per member at Kyajo Ri Base Camp and Cholatse Base Camp
Dining tent and toilet tent at both base camps
High camp tents at all overnight camping stages above both base camps
Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
Farewell dinner on the final evening in Kathmandu
Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps on both peaks
Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
Satellite phone for emergency communication
Walkie-talkie radios for team coordination on both peaks
Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member

Not Included

International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
Nepal entry visa fees
Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
Alcoholic and soft beverages
Internet and WiFi access
Personal clothing and climbing equipment
Personal first aid kit
Special drone permit fees
Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

Personalised Guidance

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification

IFMGA / IVBV / UIAGM

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Choose Your Experience

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From

€9,900

per person

→ Group Expedition
→ Shared Guide
→ Well-Planned Itinerary
→ Fixed Group Schedule
→ Minimum 3 Participants
→ Professionally Guided
→ Excellent Value
→ Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers

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Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From

€15,600

per person

→ Private Expedition
→ 1:1 Private Guide
→ Fully Tailored Itinerary
→ Flexible Scheduling
→ Solo or Private Group
→ Dedicated IFMGA Private Guide
→ Premium, Personalized Investment
→ Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience

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Common Questions

FAQs

The order reflects the technical progression built into the expedition's design. Kyajo Ri (6,186m) is a demanding 6,000m peak in its own right, but its route — while serious — is less committing than Cholatse's upper terrain. Climbing Kyajo Ri first gives the team a controlled environment to consolidate technical skills, build high-altitude rhythm, and gain specific altitude conditioning above 6,000m before facing Cholatse's steeper ice and more sustained difficulty. Starting with Cholatse would remove that preparation advantage entirely. The progression is deliberate — Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up, but it is the right first step.

GUIDING BEYOND THE SUMMIT

Expedition Report

Kyajo Ri Expedition Report 2022

This report follows the climb from Kathmandu to the summit of Kyajo Ri (6,186m), through Lukla, Namche Bazaar, and the quiet Khumjung valley, up to a base camp shared with fresh snow leopard tracks, and finally to a 7:58 a.m. summit reached with no other team on the mountain. If you're researching Kyajo Ri expedition before booking your own climb, this report also covers what most climbers want to know: how technical it is, how it compares to other Khumbu trekking peaks, and what the summit push really involves. Expedition Overview • Peak: Kyajo Ri, 6,186 m (20,296 ft) • Region: Khumbu Region, between the Gokyo and Thame valleys, Everest Region, Nepal • Summit Date: 3 May 2022 • Starting Point: Kathmandu, via mountain flight to Lukla (Tenzing-Hillary Airport) • Route: Lukla → Phakding → Namche Bazaar → Khumjung → Base Camp (4,550 m) → Camp 1 (acclimatization) → High Camp (5,300 m) → Summit, climbed in alpine style • Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff • Weather: Clear and stable on summit day, which made the demanding alpine-style push possible Kyajo Ri is classified as a Group A trekking peak by the Nepal Mountaineering Association, but don't let that label undersell it. It's widely considered more technical than neighboring peaks like Island Peak or Lobuche East, with sustained sections of ice, rock, and snow that call for real alpine climbing skills rather than a straightforward walk-up. Full Expedition Report Kathmandu to Phakding The expedition began with a 30-minute mountain flight from Kathmandu to Tenzing-Hillary Airport in Lukla. We had lunch there with a beautiful view over the airport before setting off on a short hike down to Phakding village to spend the first night on the trail. Phakding to Namche Bazaar The trail to Namche Bazaar crosses several bridges, including the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest in the region. The final kilometers climb steeply, but the views make you forget the effort. Arriving in Namche, we had a warm welcome from the local Sherpa community and settled into the Sherpa Barista Home lodge for the next two nights. Acclimatization in Namche Bazaar We spent two days in Namche to acclimatize, using the time to visit local cultural museums and get to know the Sherpa community a little better. We also hiked up to the Everest View Point, both for altitude adjustment and for a first look at the highest mountain in the world. Namche Bazaar to Khumjung From Namche, we continued to Khumjung village at 3,800 m, where we stayed overnight, rested, and made our final preparations before heading toward Kyajo Ri base camp. Khumjung to Kyajo Ri Base Camp (4,550 m) Leaving Khumjung, the trail climbed over a steep hill before opening into a flat valley, where we set up base camp at 4,550 m. Acclimatization at Base Camp and Camp 1 We spent two nights at base camp to acclimatize, including a hike up to Camp 1 to adjust to the higher elevation. The route to Camp 1 crosses moraine terrain, with striking views the whole way. This remote valley is also home to more wildlife than you'd expect — on the way up, we spotted fresh snow leopard tracks in the snow, left just minutes before we arrived. It's a reminder of how wild and untouched this part of the Khumbu still is. Base Camp to High Camp (5,300 m) From base camp, we moved up to a high camp set between Camp 1 and Camp 2, at 5,300 m. We slept for only a few hours before the summit push. With no other teams climbing Kyajo Ri that season, the camps and the mountain itself were entirely ours. Summit Day (3 May 2022) We left high camp at 1:00 a.m. Climbing in true alpine style through the night was demanding — the route mixed ice, rock, and deep snow, and with no other team having climbed the mountain that period, there was no packed trail to follow. Every section had to be worked out as we went. The summit push was long and hard because of the snow conditions, but the weather stayed perfect throughout, which made it possible to keep pushing despite the difficulty. At 7:58 a.m., we reached the summit of Kyajo Ri. With the entire mountain to ourselves, we took time to enjoy the spectacular views before beginning the descent back to base camp. Return to Namche Bazaar Everyone made it back safely to Namche Bazaar to rest, tired but glad to be down. Safety remained the priority from the first step in Lukla to the last one back in Namche — and it's that same approach we carry into every expedition that follows. Challenges • Climbing alpine style through the night with no packed trail to follow, since no other team had climbed the mountain that season • Mixed technical terrain — ice, rock, and deep snow — on the summit push • Difficult snow conditions that made the summit push longer and more physically demanding than expected • A short rest window at high camp (5,300 m) before a 1:00 a.m. departure • Multiple staged acclimatization stops (Namche, Khumjung, base camp, Camp 1) needed to prepare the body for a technical push above 5,000 m Highlights • Crossing the Hillary suspension bridge, the highest bridge in the region • A first view of Everest from the Everest View Point above Namche Bazaar • Fresh snow leopard tracks spotted on the way to Camp 1 • Having the high camp — and the entire mountain — to ourselves for the whole climb • Reaching the summit at 7:58 a.m. under a perfectly clear sky • The warm welcome and cultural museums experienced in Namche Bazaar Safety Kyajo Ri doesn't forgive careless decisions, and this climb reinforced why. With no other team on the mountain and no trail already broken, every route-finding call during the night push mattered. We built the itinerary around layered acclimatization — two nights in Namche, an overnight in Khumjung, two nights at base camp with a hike to Camp 1 — before committing to a high camp at 5,300 m and the summit push. That staged approach, combined with careful pacing through the mixed ice, rock, and snow terrain, is what allowed the team to reach the summit and return safely despite the difficult conditions. Safety is our number one priority at Alpinist Climber Expeditions, and on a peak as technical and remote as Kyajo Ri, that meant leaning fully on the judgment of our IFMGA-certified guide and experienced Sherpa climbing staff at every stage of the climb. Conclusion Kyajo Ri gave us a mountain entirely to ourselves — no crowds, no packed trail, just our team working through ice, rock, and snow toward a 7:58 a.m. summit. It's a climb that demands more than most trekking peaks in the Khumbu, and it rewards that effort with a kind of solitude that's increasingly rare in this region. The snow leopard tracks near Camp 1 stay with us as a reminder of how wild this valley still is, and how much respect a mountain like Kyajo Ri deserves. We're grateful for the safe climb, the clear weather on summit day, and the team that made it happen. If a technical, less-crowded Himalayan summit is what you're after, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, guided Kyajo Ri expedition with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming departures to see what's next.

May 03, 2022 Read Article →

KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

Trip Summary

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

Cholatse — 6,440m

Trip Overview

Trip Description

Expedition Highlights

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

Detailed Itinerary

Why ACE?

The Team

Expedition Guides

Climbing Sherpa Support

What to Expect from Our Team

Gallery

Trip Notes

Why This Combination?

Overview

Route & Character

Key Risks & Why They Matter

Equipment List

Headwear

Handwear

Clothing

Footwear

Technical Climbing Equipment

Sleeping Equipment

Trekking & Camp Essentials

Hygiene & Sun Protection

Includes & Excludes

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Package Options

FAQs

From the Summit

Dispatches from the Mountains

Kyajo Ri Expedition Report 2022

Cholatse Expedition Report 2022

Lobuche East Expedition Report 2022

KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

Trip Summary

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

Cholatse — 6,440m

Trip Overview

Trip Description

Expedition Highlights

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

Detailed Itinerary

Why ACE?

The Team

Expedition Guides

Climbing Sherpa Support

What to Expect from Our Team

Gallery

Trip Notes

Why This Combination?

Overview

Route & Character

Key Risks & Why They Matter

Equipment List

Headwear

Handwear

Clothing

Footwear

Technical Climbing Equipment

Sleeping Equipment

Trekking & Camp Essentials

Hygiene & Sun Protection

Includes & Excludes

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Package Options

FAQs

From the Summit

Dispatches from the Mountains

Kyajo Ri Expedition Report 2022

Cholatse Expedition Report 2022

Lobuche East Expedition Report 2022

Never Miss a Summit Moment

Never Miss a
Summit Moment