KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION
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KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION

duration icon
Duration
25 Days
altitude icon
Max Altitude
6,440m
group icon
Group Size
Max 1 - 4

Trip Summary

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

Kyajo Ri sits above Thame village at 6,186 metres on the northwest rim of the Khumbu — a technical peak that sees far fewer ascents than its elevation and quality would suggest. The route rises through Base Camp at 4,550m, Camp 1 at 5,200m, and Camp 2 at 5,700m before the technical upper ridge leads to the summit. Above Camp 2, the terrain is serious: steep mixed ground, exposed ridge sections, and a demanding final approach that separates Kyajo Ri firmly from the trekking peaks category.

 

In this expedition, Kyajo Ri functions as the structured preparation stage. The mixed terrain on the upper ridge, the sustained effort above 5,500m, and the specific skills developed under IFMGA guide instruction during the summit push provide the direct technical foundation that Cholatse will demand at a higher level. Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up — it is a genuinely difficult 6,000m peak that happens to also be the best possible preparation for what comes next.

 

Cholatse — 6,440m

Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western boundary of the Khumbu, at the head of the Gokyo Valley. It was first summited in 1982 and remains one of the more serious technical peaks available to climbers at this altitude in Nepal. The route ascends from Base Camp at 4,700m through Camp 1 at 5,600m and Camp 2 at 5,840m, before the upper mountain presents the most demanding ground of the expedition — steep ice and mixed terrain on the final approach to the summit ridge.

 

The mountain sees relatively few expeditions each season, which contributes to its character: the route is not a heavily trafficked fixed-line highway, and the conditions on the upper mountain require genuine reading and management by the guide team. The summit at 6,440m looks directly across the Ngozumba Glacier toward Cho Oyu, with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu visible to the east and the Gokyo lakes glittering far below. It is a position that rewards the technical commitment required to reach it.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
25 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,440m
Summit of KYAJO RI & CHOLATSE COMBO EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 1 - 4
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
Trip overview background

Trip Description

The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is one of the most demanding two-peak packages available in the Khumbu. Both mountains are serious technical objectives above 6,000 metres and both require genuine alpine competence to attempt safely. This is not a programme for climbers who are new to technical terrain. It is designed for advanced mountaineers who want a significant challenge and are ready to pursue two difficult summits in a single 25-day expedition.

 

The expedition begins with Kyajo Ri (6,186m) — not because it is easy, but because it is less demanding than what follows. The three-camp route on Kyajo Ri's upper ridge develops the technical skills, high-altitude rhythm, and physical conditioning that Cholatse's more committing terrain will require. By the time the team crosses the Gokyo Valley toward Cholatse Base Camp, they have stood on a 6,186m technical summit and climbed through steep mixed ground that directly mirrors the lower sections of Cholatse's route.

 

Cholatse stands at 6,440 metres above the Cho La pass on the western edge of the Khumbu — a peak with a well-earned reputation for sustained difficulty. The route through three camps involves glacier travel, steep snow and ice, and technically demanding ground on the upper ridge that places this mountain firmly in the category of serious alpine objectives. It sees far fewer ascents than many comparable peaks, and the summit view — directly above the Gokyo lakes with Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu filling the northern and eastern horizon is one of the finest in the entire Khumbu.

 

Prior experience in technical climbing is essential for this expedition. Both peaks demand a certain level of skill, fitness, and mental commitment that cannot be substituted by enthusiasm alone. For those who meet that standard, the Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo is one of the most rewarding 25-day programmes available in Nepal.

 

Expedition Highlights

  • Two technical summits — Kyajo Ri (6,186m) as the alpine preparation stage, Cholatse (6,440m) as the primary objective

  • Cholatse: a serious and rarely crowded 6,440m peak above the Cho La, with a reputation for sustained technical difficulty and exceptional summit views

  • Kyajo Ri: three-camp technical route above Thame — the ideal preparation for Cholatse's more demanding upper terrain

  • The full Khumbu approach via Namche, with the Gokyo Valley traversal leading to Cholatse Base Camp

  • Available in spring, autumn, and winter — one of the few Khumbu combo expeditions with a winter option

  • IFMGA-certified lead guide and 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit days for both peaks

  • Option for a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

  • A total high-altitude challenge that rewards experience, preparation, and commitment in equal measure

 

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

Cholatse is a mountain that demands experienced, technically competent guiding at every stage of the route. The upper terrain above Camp 2 involves steep ice and mixed climbing that requires sound judgment, technical ability, and the presence of mind to manage a rope team on serious ground at 6,000 metres. An IFMGA-certified guide is not a recommendation for this expedition — it is a requirement.

 

Every Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized certification in professional mountain guiding. Our guides carry additional qualifications in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Rock Climbing Level One, and High-Altitude Rescue — all applied in the field on every expedition.

 

Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has been guiding on Himalayan terrain of this standard since the age of 18 — with over 15 years of professional experience and a summit record that includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, Nuptse, Pumori, and Ama Dablam. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the full expedition personally across both peaks.

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. The evening begins with a welcome dinner — the first chance to meet your guide and fellow team members before the Khumbu journey begins.

Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

A comprehensive briefing covers both peaks — the full route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, and permit logistics. Equipment is checked and confirmed. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is free for any final preparation before the flight to Lukla the following morning.

Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) with sweeping Himalayan views on the approach. The team assembles in Lukla and loads are organized before the first trekking day begins. The trail descends along the Dudh Koshi River through pine forest to Phakding — a steady, manageable introduction to the Khumbu trail.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km −250 m (2,860 m → 2,610 m)
Lodge
Location icon 2,610m

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo and climbs steeply to Namche Bazaar — the commercial hub and cultural centre of the Sherpa world at 3,440m. The steep ascent from the river crossing below gains approximately 600 metres and marks the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach. Kyajo Ri's summit is visible on the northwest ridge above Namche from the village itself.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~10 km +830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m builds altitude exposure above Namche before returning to sleep lower. The route above Namche passes through Khumjung village and delivers views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and — directly — Kyajo Ri above the Thame Valley to the northwest. A first clear look at the first summit ahead.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 5–8 km +350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The trail branches northwest from Namche through Khunde — a traditional Sherpa village below the Khunde Hospital, the oldest hospital in the Khumbu. From Khunde, the path climbs steeply toward Thame and then continues above the village to Kyajo Ri Base Camp at 4,550m. The summit ridge of Kyajo Ri dominates the view above — steeper and more serious in appearance than the trail below would suggest.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~13 km +1,110 m (3,440 m → 4,550 m)
Camp
Location icon 4,550m

A rest and preparation day at Kyajo Ri Base Camp. Equipment is organized, the route is reviewed in detail with the lead guide, and the team acclimatizes before the serious climbing begins the following morning. The terrain from Camp 1 through Camp 2 and the upper ridge is visible from Base Camp and discussed in full.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 2–4 km +100–200 m (training/acclimatization hike)
Camp
Location icon 4,550m

The route from Base Camp climbs through mixed terrain — rock, snow, and the first technical sections of the lower ridge — to Camp 1 at 5,200m. The upper mountain is now fully visible above: the steeper ground between Camp 1 and Camp 2, and the exposed final ridge to the summit are clearly apparent from this vantage. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the more demanding move to Camp 2.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~4 km +650 m (4,550 m → 5,200 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,200m

Above Camp 1 the terrain intensifies. Fixed lines protect the steeper sections as the route gains the main ridge through steep snow and mixed ground. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits in a sheltered position on the upper ridge with the Kyajo Ri summit clearly visible above. The Cholatse massif is now visible to the southeast — a first look at the second objective. The team rests carefully in preparation for the summit push.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~3 km +500 m (5,200 m → 5,700 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,700m

A reserve day at Camp 2. Weather on the Kyajo Ri upper ridge is unpredictable and the summit cannot safely be attempted in poor conditions. This buffer day protects the summit window without compressing the timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather and route data. If conditions allow on Day 10, the leader may summit and use Day 11 as descent.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Camp
Location icon 5,700m

The summit push from Camp 2 begins in the early hours. The upper ridge of Kyajo Ri is the most technically demanding ground on this peak — sustained steep terrain, mixed sections, and the final exposed approach to the summit at 6,186m. The view from the top encompasses Cho Oyu, Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Ama Dablam on one side, and the Cholatse massif clearly defined to the southeast — the next objective, now visible from the top of the first. The team descends to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–14 hrs ~10 km +486 m (5,700 m → 6,186 m, then descend to 4,550 m)
Camp
Location icon 6,186m

From Kyajo Ri Base Camp the team descends back through the Thame trail to Khunde. The altitude drop is significant and the lower valley's warmth is immediately welcome after the time above 5,000m. Khunde provides a proper lodge rest between the two phases of the expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~10 km −710 m (4,550 m → 3,840 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,840m

The trail moves east and south from Khunde, joining the Gokyo Valley approach through the Khumbu's less-trafficked western corridor. The route passes through Mong La and descends to the Dudh Koshi before climbing to Dole — a small settlement in the lower Gokyo Valley with fine views of Cho Oyu appearing to the north for the first time. The Gokyo route is quieter than the main Everest trail and the change in atmosphere is noticeable.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~11 km +198 m (3,840 m → 4,038 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,038m

The Gokyo Valley route continues north to Machhermo — a well-established lodge stop on the approach to the Gokyo lakes and Cholatse. The valley narrows and steepens above Dole, and the peaks ahead begin to grow in scale. Machhermo sits at a meaningful altitude and the overnight here serves as useful preparation before the further climb to Cholatse Base Camp the following day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~7 km +432 m (4,038 m → 4,470 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,470m

From Machhermo, the trail branches toward the Cho La and the approach to Cholatse Base Camp at 4,700m. The mountain reveals itself progressively on the approach — its southwest face, the route of ascent, and the sharp summit ridge becoming clearer with every hundred metres of altitude gained. Base Camp is established on solid ground below the lower glacier, with the route above beginning to take shape. The second phase of the expedition formally begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~8 km +230 m (4,470 m → 4,700 m)
Camp
Location icon 4,700m

The Puja ceremony is conducted at Cholatse Base Camp — a traditional Sherpa blessing ritual attended by every member of the team. All climbing equipment is blessed before use on the mountain. This ceremony carries the same genuine significance as at any other Base Camp, and on a less-visited peak like Cholatse it has a particularly intimate quality. The day's remainder is for rest, equipment organization, and settling into the altitude ahead of the climbing phase.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 2–3 km Minimal
Camp
Location icon 4,700m

The route above Base Camp enters serious terrain quickly. Cholatse's lower glacier approach involves crevassed glacier travel and increasingly steep snow before Camp 1 at 5,600m is reached. This is a significant altitude gain from Base Camp in a single day, and the physical demand of the day reflects the character of the mountain above. Camp 1 is a well-positioned camp with full exposure to the upper route and the conditions that will determine the summit window.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–7 hrs ~4 km +900 m (4,700 m → 5,600 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,600m

Above Camp 1 the terrain becomes more committed. Steep ice and mixed ground characterize the approach to Camp 2 at 5,840m — the final camp before the summit push. Fixed lines protect the most demanding sections, but the climbing requires the technical competence and altitude conditioning that the Kyajo Ri phase has developed. Camp 2 is an exposed but sheltered position with the upper summit ridge now directly above. The team rests carefully, eating well and managing hydration in preparation for an early summit departure.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~2 km +240 m (5,600 m → 5,840 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,840m

A reserve day at Camp 2. Cholatse's upper ridge at nearly 6,000m is exposed to weather systems that move quickly through the Gokyo Valley. This buffer day ensures the team can wait for a proper summit window without compressing the descent or the return timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and conditions on the upper route. If conditions allow, the leader may summit on Day 19 and use Day 20 as the descent day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Camp
Location icon 5,840m

Summit day begins before dawn from Camp 2. The upper mountain presents the most technical and committing terrain of the full 25-day expedition — steep ice, mixed sections, and the final push along the exposed summit ridge to 6,440m. A 1:1 Climbing Sherpa accompanies each member throughout. The summit of Cholatse delivers an extraordinary panorama: Cho Oyu fills the northwest horizon, the Ngozumba Glacier stretches below toward the Gokyo lakes, and Everest, Lhotse, and Makalu rise to the northeast and east. Two technical summits completed in 25 days.

 

After time at the top, the team descends methodically to Camp 1. The technical ground above Camp 2 demands the same careful attention on descent as on ascent — the guide team manages the return with the same focus as the climb.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
12–15 hrs ~8 km +600 m (5,840 m → 6,440 m, then descend to 5,600 m)
Camp
Location icon 6,440m

A full descent from Camp 1 to Cholatse Base Camp. The camp is broken down over the afternoon and the team prepares for the return trek beginning the following morning. The valley below Base Camp is now a very welcome sight after nearly two weeks above 5,000m on two technical mountains.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~4 km −900 m (5,600 m → 4,700 m)
Camp
Location icon 4,700m

The return trek retraces the Gokyo Valley approach in reverse — south through Machhermo and Dole, crossing back into the main Khumbu corridor and arriving in Namche Bazaar by the afternoon. The altitude drop from 4,700m to 3,440m is felt immediately and gratefully.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
8–9 hrs ~21 km −1,260 m (4,700 m → 4,038 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The final trekking day follows the Dudh Koshi River downstream from Namche through Phakding and the familiar lower Khumbu forest to Lukla. The trail is well-known by this point and the pace is easy. Porters are thanked and farewelled in Lukla before the final night on the expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~18 km −580 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m)
Lodge
Location icon 2,860m

An early morning flight from Lukla returns the team to Kathmandu. The afternoon is free for rest, a final exploration of Thamel, or souvenir shopping before the farewell dinner in the evening — a proper celebration of 25 days, two 6,000m technical summits, and the commitment it took to reach both of them.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
35 min flight ~138 km (air) −1,530 m (2,860 m → 1,330 m)
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse Combo Expedition concludes — 25 days from Kathmandu to two serious alpine summits and back.

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

Quick facts: Kyajo Ri: 6,186m | Cholatse: 6,440m | Khumbu region, Gokyo and Khumbu valleys | Total expedition: approx. 30–36 days | Best season: autumn (Sep–Nov) | Combined grade: technical to highly technical

 

Why This Combination?

 

Kyajo Ri and Cholatse sit on either side of the Gokyo-Khumbu divide, making this a true traverse of the Khumbu high peaks for experienced alpine climbers. The pairing is well-matched in character: both are serious technical climbs with mixed ground, exposed ridgelines, and minimal crowding, and both reward mountaineers who are looking to push well beyond the trekking-peak standard. Kyajo Ri serves as the first and slightly more accessible of the two, giving climbers strong acclimatisation and a technical warm-up before confronting the considerably steeper and more demanding ground on Cholatse.

 

Overview

 

The expedition begins in the Gokyo Valley, approaching Kyajo Ri base camp and moving through the Southwest Ridge route before the team crosses toward the Khumbu side for Cholatse. Cholatse base camp is typically reached via the Cho La Pass, naturally linking the two peaks through one of the Khumbu's most dramatic high passes. By the time climbers begin Cholatse, they will have already spent significant time above 5,500m and completed a summit above 6,100m — solid preparation for a peak that has turned back even accomplished alpinists.

 

Route & Character

 

Kyajo Ri's route crosses glaciated terrain and climbs mixed snow, ice, and rock pitches up to 60° on its Southwest Ridge. Cholatse raises the stakes further: the standard Southeast Ridge involves sustained ice and rock climbing, a razor-sharp summit ridge with steep drops on both sides, and limited opportunity to rest or shelter between the camps and the top. The combined route covers two of the most technically demanding peaks open to non-expedition climbers in the Khumbu, making this a standout package for those with prior mixed-climbing experience.

 

Key Risks & Why They Matter

 

Highly technical terrain on both peaks: Unlike combo packages that include one moderate peak for acclimatisation, both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse require real technical confidence on mixed ground — Kyajo Ri at up to 60° and Cholatse consistently steeper than that on its upper sections. Climbers without prior experience on this grade of terrain should complete one or both peaks separately before attempting them together.

Cholatse's extreme exposure and narrow ridge: The summit ridge of Cholatse is famously exposed, with sharp drop-offs on both sides leaving minimal margin for error — this is not a peak where fixed ropes compensate for limited technique, and a tired or uncertain climber on this ridge faces a very serious situation.

Icefall and rockfall on Cholatse: Cholatse's steep faces sit above the route in places, meaning ice and rock debris can fall with little warning. Guides time climbing days to move through exposed sections during the coldest, most stable hours of the morning, but this cannot eliminate the hazard entirely.

Cumulative fatigue before the harder peak: Because Cholatse comes second in the itinerary, climbers begin their harder objective already carrying the physical cost of Kyajo Ri — legs, lungs, and nerves have all been tested. This is a normal and manageable part of multi-peak expeditions, but it is why the itinerary builds mandatory rest days between the two summits rather than moving directly from one to the other.

Weather dependency for both summit windows: Two separate summit-quality weather windows are needed across the expedition. Cholatse in particular is intolerant of poor conditions on its exposed upper ridge — a storm that might only delay Island Peak can make Cholatse outright dangerous — and this is why summit decisions are made based on conditions on the day, not on the calendar.

 

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

Equipment List

This is a 25-day expedition with two serious technical peaks, sustained time above 5,000m, and a summit at 6,440m on committing alpine terrain. Every item on this list should be tested before departure. Equipment must perform in cold, exposed conditions above 5,800m on both Kyajo Ri and Cholatse.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • Balaclava or thin face mask

  • UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 strongly recommended

  • Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system

 

Handwear

  • Thin liner gloves

  • Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves

  • Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves

  • Down mittens — recommended for both summit pushes

 

Clothing

  • Expedition-quality down jacket with hood

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers

  • Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer

  • Fleece or insulated trousers

  • Thermal base layer — top and bottom

  • Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)

  • Light hiking trousers for the trek

 

Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for both peaks

  • Trekking boots for approach stages

  • Camp shoes or light slippers

  • Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Snow gaiters

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • UIAA-approved climbing helmet

  • Sit harness

  • Ascender (jumar)

  • Descending device (ATC guide or similar)

  • Locking carabiners (4 minimum)

  • Non-locking carabiners (2)

  • Ice axe — classic alpine type

  • Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots

  • Trekking poles

 

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping bag rated to -20°C

  • Sleeping mat or Thermarest

  • Sleeping bag liner — recommended

 

Trekking & Camp Essentials

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2) and 1-litre thermos

  • Personal first aid kit

  • Personal snacks and energy bars

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag and medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection

  • Hand sanitizer, wet wipes, and toilet paper

Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Kyajo Ri climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Cholatse climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • Pasang Lhamu Municipality entry fees
  • Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
  • Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses for both peaks, equipment, and full insurance
  • Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • 4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
  • Single tent per member at Kyajo Ri Base Camp and Cholatse Base Camp
  • Dining tent and toilet tent at both base camps
  • High camp tents at all overnight camping stages above both base camps
  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
  • Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
  • Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
  • Farewell dinner on the final evening in Kathmandu
  • Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
  • Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
  • High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps on both peaks
  • Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
  • Satellite phone for emergency communication
  • Walkie-talkie radios for team coordination on both peaks
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Not Included
  • × International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Special drone permit fees
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From
€ 9,900
per person
  • → Group Expedition
  • → Shared Guide
  • → Well-Planned Itinerary
  • → Fixed Group Schedule
  • → Minimum 3 Participants
  • → Professionally Guided
  • → Excellent Value
  • → Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers
Book Standard
Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From
€ 15,600
per person
  • → Private Expedition
  • → 1:1 Private Guide
  • → Fully Tailored Itinerary
  • → Flexible Scheduling
  • → Solo or Private Group
  • → Dedicated IFMGA Private Guide
  • → Premium, Personalized Investment
  • → Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience
Book Premium

FAQs

The order reflects the technical progression built into the expedition's design. Kyajo Ri (6,186m) is a demanding 6,000m peak in its own right, but its route — while serious — is less committing than Cholatse's upper terrain. Climbing Kyajo Ri first gives the team a controlled environment to consolidate technical skills, build high-altitude rhythm, and gain specific altitude conditioning above 6,000m before facing Cholatse's steeper ice and more sustained difficulty. Starting with Cholatse would remove that preparation advantage entirely. The progression is deliberate — Kyajo Ri is not a warm-up, but it is the right first step.

Summit
Elevation
N
ACE
Guiding Beyond The Summit
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

Verified Client Story
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

Verified Client Story
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
Verified Client Story
Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
Verified Client Story
Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026
Expedition Report

Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026

  In July 2026, a team from Alpinist Climber Expeditions climbed Chhuama IV, a 6,179-metre peak in the Mustang region of Nepal that no one had ever summited before. On 16 July, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Dynafit athlete Prakash Sherpa reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time, after teammate Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres from the summit because of dangerous rockfall. Six earlier permit teams had tried and failed to climb Chhuama IV. This was the seventh attempt, and it succeeded — making it the first recorded ascent of the mountain. This is the story of that expedition: how the team got to the mountain, what the route was actually like, and what happened during the final push to the summit.   About Alpinist Climber Expeditions Alpinist Climber Expeditions is a Nepal-based expedition company that has been running alpine-style expeditions in the Himalayan ranges of Nepal since 2021. The Chhuama IV climb fits the kind of objective the company tends to take on: a lesser-known peak, a small team, and a route that hadn't been fully worked out by anyone before them. Alpine-style climbing generally means moving with a small team and minimal fixed infrastructure on the mountain, relying on judgment and route-finding rather than large-scale siege tactics — and that approach mattered on Chhuama IV, where conditions changed quickly and decisions had to be made on the spot.   The Peak and Why This Expedition  Was Different Chhuama IV sits in the Mustang region of Nepal and stands 6,179 metres high. Before this expedition, six other permit teams had attempted the mountain. None of them reached the top. That history says something about the peak — this wasn't a case of nobody having tried. Climbers had gone up before, assessed the conditions, and turned back. Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team was the seventh group to hold a permit for Chhuama IV. Reaching the summit meant succeeding where six previous attempts hadn't, on a mountain with no established route and no prior summit to reference for conditions, timing, or line of ascent.   Preparing for the Expedition and the Approach  to Base Camp The trip began on 9 July 2026 with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara, followed the next day by the long drive from Pokhara to Jomsom. On 11 July, the team continued by road from Jomsom to Lo Manthang, the historic walled town in Upper Mustang. The team spent 12 July acclimatizing in Lo Manthang before moving on. On 13 July they drove from Lo Manthang to Nymdo, and on 14 July they trekked from Nymdo to Base Camp. The following day, 15 July, they moved up from Base Camp to Lower High Camp — the last stop before the summit attempt. This slower, staged approach — drive, acclimatize, drive again, then trek up in stages to Base Camp and Lower High Camp — gave the team time to adjust to altitude before the technical climbing began.   Climbing Conditions on Chhuama IV Once the team got onto the mountain itself, the terrain turned out to be the main obstacle. The route up Chhuama IV involved long stretches of loose, unstable rock, slopes that could shift underfoot, and frequent rockfall. In the upper sections, there were only limited safe options for where to actually put a route, which meant the team had to keep reassessing the terrain as they climbed rather than following a fixed line. Weather added another layer of difficulty. Conditions changed often during the expedition, and on the day chosen for the summit push, the team had only a short window of favourable weather to work with. That combination — unstable ground below and a narrow weather window above — shaped almost every decision made on summit day.   The Summit Push : 16 July 2026 The team began its summit push from Lower High Camp on 16 July 2026. From early on, the upper mountain was hazardous. Rockfall was continuous, and the loose terrain meant every section had to be evaluated as they went, not assumed safe because it had been climbed before. Barnaby Francis climbed with the team through this section but made the decision to turn back approximately 250 metres below the summit. The reason was straightforward: the rockfall and the state of the terrain above made continuing unsafe. It was a judgment call made in the moment, based on what was actually happening on the mountain rather than on how close the summit looked. From that point, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued alone. He worked through the difficult, unstable upper section and kept going where the conditions had stopped his teammate. This wasn't a case of pushing through recklessly — it reflects the kind of terrain assessment that comes with IFMGA-level guiding experience, where the decision to continue or turn back is made section by section.   Reaching the Summit Prakash Sherpa reached the summit of Chhuama IV, at 6,179 metres, at 3:21 PM Nepal Local Time on 16 July 2026. With six previous permit teams having failed to summit the mountain, this made Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team the first to do so. The expedition is recorded by the team as the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV — a first ascent of a Nepal peak that had resisted six prior attempts before this one succeeded. After the summit, the team descended back toward Lower High Camp on the same day.     The Team's Experience  and the Way Down The climbing team for this expedition was small: Barnaby Francis from the United Kingdom, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa, and Ngima Tashi Sherpa as supporter. On a mountain with unstable rock and shifting weather, decisions had to be made quickly and by people who knew the terrain — which is part of why Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue, both mattered as much as the summit itself. The descent and return followed a similarly staged plan to the approach. On 17 July, the team trekked roughly 2.5 hours down from Lower High Camp before driving on to Pokhara. On 18 July, they completed the trip with the drive from Pokhara back to Kathmandu.   What Made This First Ascent  Significant Chhuama IV wasn't an easy objective, and it wasn't an obscure line that simply hadn't attracted attention. Six permit teams before Alpinist Climber Expeditions had tried to climb it and hadn't succeeded, which points to real difficulty rather than a lack of interest. The loose rock, the rockfall, and the narrow weather windows on summit day were the actual obstacles that had stopped previous attempts — and they were still present for this expedition. What changed the outcome wasn't a shortcut around those conditions. Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back 250 metres from the top, made because the risk was too high, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue where conditions allowed it, together produced the first known summit of the mountain. Both decisions came from reading the same terrain and weather correctly.   Conclusion The Chhuama IV expedition, carried out by Alpinist Climber Expeditions in July 2026, resulted in the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV 6,179-metre peak in Nepal's Mustang region — a mountain that had already turned back six permit teams before this one. On 16 July 2026, after Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres below the summit due to rockfall and unstable terrain, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued and reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time. It wasn't a straightforward climb, and the notes from the expedition don't describe it as one. Loose rock, frequent rockfall, and a narrow weather window shaped nearly every part of the summit day. Given that history, reaching the summit of Chhuama IV for the first time is a meaningful outcome — one built on careful, terrain-by-terrain decision-making rather than a single dramatic push to the top.     #GuidingBeyondTheSummit  #Dynafit 

Aug 12, 2026 Read Article →
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