ISLAND PEAK & KYAJO RI COMBO EXPEDITION
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ISLAND PEAK & KYAJO RI COMBO EXPEDITION

duration icon
Duration
22 Days
altitude icon
Max Altitude
6,186m
group icon
Group Size
Max 1 - 4

Trip Summary

Island Peak — 6,160m

 

Island Peak also locally known as Imja Tse, sits above the Chhukung Valley at 6,160 metres, surrounded on three sides by the walls of Lhotse, Lhotse Shar, and Ama Dablam. Its name comes from the early Everest expeditions: viewed from Dingboche, the peak rises as an island of rock and snow above the surrounding glaciers. It was first climbed in 1953 by a British team using it as a training peak for Everest — which is precisely the role it plays in this expedition.

 

The standard route ascends from Base Camp at 5,100m via a glacier approach, fixed ropes on the headwall, and a final snow ridge to the summit. The terrain is genuine — crampons and harness are required, and the summit day is a proper mountain experience. But the route is well-managed and the gradient forgiving enough to allow a guide to focus as much on teaching and technique as on the ascent itself. In this expedition, that is exactly what happens: Island Peak is where your IFMGA guide builds the alpine skills — crampon movement, jumar technique, rope management, and confidence on steep snow that Kyajo Ri will demand.

 

Kyajo Ri — 6,186m

 

Kyajo Ri stands at 6,186 metres above Thame village on the northwest edge of the Khumbu, a peak that is considerably less visited than its height and position would suggest. The mountain is not a trekking peak — it is a technical alpine climb that requires genuine competence on mixed terrain, sound rope technique, and the ability to manage altitude on a sustained three-camp route that includes serious ground above 5,700m.

 

The climbing route rises from Base Camp at 4,550m through High Camp at 5,300m, Camp 1 at 5,700m, and then onto the technical upper ridge that leads to the summit. The terrain above Camp 1 is where Kyajo Ri earns its reputation — steep snow, mixed rock and ice sections, and an exposed ridge that rewards the technically prepared and punishes the underprepared. The summit view is exceptional: Everest, Cho Oyu, Rolwaling, and the full Khumbu arc spread out in every direction. Very few people stand on it each year, and the mountain retains a quiet seriousness that many of the more-visited Khumbu peaks have lost.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
22 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,186m
Summit of ISLAND PEAK & KYAJO RI COMBO EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 1 - 4
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
Trip overview background

Trip Description

The Island Peak and Kyajo Ri Combo Expedition is one of the most logically designed double-summit packages available in the Khumbu. It pairs two peaks of distinctly different character — one a well-established gateway summit at 6,160 metres, the other a serious alpine objective at 6,186 metres — in a single 22-day programme that lets each mountain play a deliberate role in the outcome of the other.

 

Island Peak comes first, and not by accident. At 6,160 metres in the upper Chhukung Valley, it is one of the most climbed peaks in Nepal and an accessible but genuine high-altitude summit that requires crampons, fixed rope, and the ability to move confidently on steep snow and ice. It is also the ideal training ground. With an IFMGA-certified guide alongside you on Island Peak, every section of the climb becomes preparation for what follows: the ascent of Kyajo Ri on the other side of the Namche ridge.

 

Kyajo Ri stands at 6,186 metres above Thame village — a peak that demands real alpine competence. The route passes through three camps on steep mixed terrain, including a technical ridge section above Camp 2 that requires genuine skill and confidence at altitude. Kyajo Ri is not an extension of Island Peak — it is the main event, and Island Peak is how you get ready for it. The physical conditioning built in the first two weeks, combined with specific technical preparation by your IFMGA guide on Island Peak's summit slopes, sets the team up properly for what the upper mountain on Kyajo Ri demands.

 

Together, these two peaks make a 22-day expedition that covers the full arc of what high-altitude climbing in the Khumbu can offer — from the dramatic valley approach through Namche and Chhukung to a summit on Island Peak, and then back through the valley to a true alpine challenge on Kyajo Ri above Thame. For climbers who want more than a single summit and are ready to step into genuine technical terrain, this is one of the most rewarding combinations available in Nepal.

 

Expedition Highlights

  • Two summits in 22 days — Island Peak (6,160m) as technical training, Kyajo Ri (6,186m) as the alpine objective

  • Island Peak used deliberately as technical preparation and acclimatization for Kyajo Ri — a purposeful progression

  • Kyajo Ri: a serious three-camp alpine route with technical mixed terrain above 5,700m — rarely crowded, highly rewarding

  • Full Khumbu approach through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and Chhukung

  • Acclimatization on Chhukung Ri (5,546m) before Island Peak summit — altitude exposure managed at every stage

  • IFMGA-certified lead guide and Climbing Sherpa support throughout both peaks

  • Option to climb as a fully private 1:1 expedition with IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

  • Available in both spring and autumn seasons

 

Led by IFMGA-Certified Professionals

The combination of Island Peak and Kyajo Ri is a thoughtfully designed progression but it only works as designed if the guiding on Island Peak is genuinely technical and instructional, not just summit-oriented. The IFMGA certification matters here precisely because it guarantees that the guide is both a qualified mountain guide and a qualified teacher of alpine skills. Our guides use Island Peak as a deliberate training environment, not simply as a warm-up.

 

Every Island Peak and Kyajo Ri Combo Expedition is led by an IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV-certified mountain guide — the highest internationally recognized certification in professional mountain guiding. Our lead guides carry additional training in Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue and Marshalling, Rock Climbing, and High-Altitude Rescue — qualifications that are applied in the field on every expedition, not just credentials on paper.

 

Mr. Prakash Sherpa, CEO and Lead IFMGA Mountain Guide of Alpinist Climber Expeditions, has been guiding at high altitude since the age of 18 — over 15 years of professional experience across the full spectrum of Himalayan terrain. His summit record includes Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Manaslu, K2, Pumori, and many more, several completed without supplemental oxygen. He is a member of the Nepal National Mountain Guide Association (NNMGA). For those selecting the premium 1:1 private option, Mr. Prakash Sherpa leads the full expedition personally — both peaks.

Detailed Itinerary

A representative from Alpinist Climber Expeditions meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your 4-star hotel. In the evening, the team gathers for a welcome dinner — the first chance to meet your guide and fellow members before the trek into the Khumbu begins the following morning.

Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

A full expedition briefing covers both peaks — the route, camp structures, technical approach, safety protocols, and permit formalities for Island Peak and Kyajo Ri. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt. The afternoon is spent visiting Kathmandu's UNESCO World Heritage Sites — Boudhanath Stupa, Pashupatinath Temple, and the medieval courtyards of Bhaktapur — before the flight to Lukla the following morning.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 5–10 km (city tour) Minimal
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

An early mountain flight from Kathmandu to Lukla (2,840m) takes approximately 35 minutes with clear views of the Himalayan arc in the morning light. In Lukla, the porter team is organized and loads distributed before the trek begins. The trail descends through pine forest along the Dudh Koshi River to Phakding — a steady introduction to the Khumbu on the first trekking day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km −250 m (2,860 m → 2,610 m)
Lodge
Location icon 2,610m

The trail crosses the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo before dropping to the confluence of the Dudh Koshi and Bhote Koshi rivers and climbing steeply for two hours to Namche Bazaar. The ascent gains roughly 600 metres and is the most physically demanding trekking day of the approach — but the first views of Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse that appear above the ridge as Namche is approached make the effort worthwhile.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~10 km +830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

A structured acclimatization day. A morning hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m provides altitude exposure above Namche while the body begins adapting. The route passes through Khumjung village, where a yeti skull preserved in the monastery is one of the valley's more unusual attractions. Ama Dablam, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse are all visible from the ridge above — including the first clear view of Island Peak's position in the upper Chhukung Valley.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 5–8 km +350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The trail leaves Namche and descends into the rhododendron forest before climbing through Tengboche — home to the most famous Buddhist monastery in the Khumbu — and continuing downhill to Diboche village. The monastery at Tengboche deserves a pause: the setting, with Ama Dablam rising directly behind, is one of the most photographed viewpoints in the Himalaya and one of the finest in person.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~10 km +420 m (includes descent and ascent to 3,860m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,860m

Above Diboche the valley opens up and the scale of the surrounding peaks becomes fully apparent. The trail crosses the Imja Khola and climbs steadily to Dingboche — a broad, open settlement at 4,410m where Lhotse's south face dominates the upper horizon. Island Peak is now visible in the upper left of the valley above Chhukung. The altitude makes itself felt here for the first time and the pace is deliberately steady.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~11 km +550 m (3,860 m → 4,410 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,410m

A short but meaningful walk from Dingboche to Chhukung — the last permanent settlement in the upper Imja Valley and the staging point for Island Peak Base Camp. The terrain around Chhukung is raw glacial landscape: moraine ridges, turquoise glacial lakes, and ice-draped walls of Lhotse and Lhotse Shar rising to over 8,000 metres directly above. Island Peak's summit ridge is clearly visible from the village.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~5 km +340 m (4,410 m → 4,750 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,750m

A serious acclimatization hike to the summit of Chhukung Ri at 5,546m — a rocky ridge above Chhukung that provides exceptional altitude exposure and one of the most panoramic views in the eastern Khumbu. The ascent takes three to four hours and the view from the top — Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, Everest, and Island Peak all visible simultaneously — gives the team its first real measure of what 5,500m feels like under exertion. The descent returns to Chhukung for the final night before Base Camp.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–7 hrs ~7 km +796 m (4,750 m → 5,546 m, return to Chhukung)
Camp
Location icon 5,546m

From Chhukung, the trail climbs steadily onto the moraine above the Imja Glacier to Island Peak Base Camp at 5,100m. The approach is a mix of rocky trail and glacial terrain, with the island-like form of the peak becoming more dramatic with every hundred metres gained. Tents are pitched at Base Camp, the team eats well and rests early — summit day begins before dawn.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~6 km +350 m (4,750 m → 5,100 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,100m

The summit day begins in the early hours by headlamp. The route from Base Camp climbs steeply through the glacier basin to the base of the headwall — a sustained section of 45–50 degree snow and ice that is protected by fixed ropes. Crampons and jumar are in use from the bottom of the headwall, and this is where your IFMGA guide works most actively on technique — demonstrating efficient movement on fixed rope, managing pace and rest, and building the specific skills that will be needed on Kyajo Ri's upper mountain. The final snow ridge to the summit at 6,160m is exposed and rewarding, with Lhotse, Makalu, and Baruntse filling the southern horizon.

 

After celebrating the first summit, the team descends carefully back to Base Camp and continues down to Chhukung for the night. Reaching Chhukung with Island Peak behind you — and Kyajo Ri ahead — is a specific and satisfying moment in this expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–14 hrs ~12 km +1,060 m (5,100 m → 6,160 m, then descend to 4,750 m)
Lodge
Location icon 6,160m

The team leaves the upper Chhukung Valley and begins the return west along the main Khumbu trail. The descent to Pangboche drops over 750m from Chhukung, and the lower altitude is immediately noticeable — warmer air, easier breathing, and the appetite returning properly. Pangboche's ancient monastery — one of the oldest in the Khumbu — is worth a brief visit before settling in for the evening.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~12 km −765 m (4,750 m → 3,985 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,985m

The trail continues west through familiar terrain — the descent from Pangboche through Tengboche and back toward Namche Bazaar. The views of Ama Dablam, Nuptse, and Everest are as good on the return as on the approach, though they carry a different quality now — Kyajo Ri is above Thame, just around the ridge from Namche, and tomorrow's rest day is the calm before the second chapter of the expedition begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~13 km −545 m (3,985 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

A full rest day in Namche Bazaar — the most well-equipped village in the Khumbu. The team rests, eats, and recovers between the two peaks. Namche has a bakery, a good selection of trekking shops, a local market on Saturdays, and Sherpa-owned restaurants with food far better than their altitude would suggest. The guide reviews the Kyajo Ri route and weather forecast, and the plan for Base Camp departure the following morning is confirmed.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 3–5 km Minimal
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The trail leaves Namche and heads northwest toward Thame — a quieter route than the main Everest corridor and noticeably less trafficked. Thame village sits above the valley floor below the great peaks of the Rolwaling range, and the trail to Kyajo Ri Base Camp climbs steeply above the village into the high ground. Base Camp at 4,550m is established with views back toward the Namche ridge and the Khumbu valley below. The Kyajo Ri summit ridge is visible above — steeper and more serious-looking than Island Peak's headwall.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~12 km +1,110 m (3,440 m → 4,550 m)
Camp
Location icon 4,550m

The route from Base Camp climbs steeply through mixed terrain — a combination of rocky ground, snow slopes, and the first sections of technical ridge that characterize Kyajo Ri's approach. Camp 1 at 5,200m is well-positioned on a broad ledge on the lower ridge. From here, the upper mountain comes fully into view, and the technical character of what lies above Camp 2 is visible for the first time. Tents are established, a hot meal prepared, and the team rests with Camp 2 and the summit push ahead.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~4 km +650 m (4,550 m → 5,200 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,200m

Above Camp 1, the terrain becomes distinctly more demanding. The route gains the main ridge through steep snow and some mixed ground — sections where the technical instruction from Island Peak's headwall pays direct dividends. Camp 2 at 5,700m sits on a narrow but sheltered position on the upper ridge, with the summit of Kyajo Ri visible a further 486 metres above. This is serious terrain at a serious altitude. The team rests carefully and eats well in preparation for the summit push.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~3 km +500 m (5,200 m → 5,700 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,700m

A reserve day at Camp 2, built into every Kyajo Ri expedition. Weather on the upper mountain is unpredictable and the summit push cannot be safely attempted in poor visibility or high wind. This buffer day allows the team to wait for a clean window without compromising the timeline. All decisions are made by the expedition leader based on current weather data and route conditions. If conditions allow on Day 18, the team may summit and use Day 19 as the descent day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Camp
Location icon 5,700m

The summit push from Camp 2 begins in the early hours. The upper ridge of Kyajo Ri involves the most demanding terrain of the expedition — sustained steep ground, exposed mixed sections, and the final push to the summit at 6,186m where the ridge opens onto a view that extends across the entire Khumbu, the Rolwaling, and deep into Tibet. Cho Oyu rises directly to the north. Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and the full eastern arc of the Himalaya fill the horizon to the south and east.

 

This summit is the centrepiece of the expedition. Island Peak built the skills that make it achievable — and standing here, with Kyajo Ri beneath your feet and two summits in two weeks behind you, is an experience that marks a genuine step forward in a climbing career. After time at the top, the team descends carefully to Base Camp with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa alongside each member throughout.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–14 hrs ~10 km +486 m (5,700 m → 6,186 m, then descend to 4,550 m)
Camp
Location icon 6,186m

From Kyajo Ri Base Camp, the trail descends back through Thame to Namche Bazaar. The altitude drop is substantial and immediate — the body responds to it gratefully after days above 5,000m. Namche feels like a city by comparison after the high camp, and the evening is a chance to decompress, eat a proper meal, and reflect on the second of the two summits.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~12 km −1,110 m (4,550 m → 3,440 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

An early start for the long descent to Lukla — the trail follows the Dudh Koshi Valley downstream through Phakding and the familiar forest of the lower Khumbu. The flight from Lukla to Kathmandu returns the team to the capital in the mid-morning, and the afternoon is free for rest, shopping in Thamel, or a final exploration of the city. The farewell dinner in the evening is a proper celebration of a 22-day expedition, two 6,000-metre summits, and everything it took to reach them.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs trek + 35 min flight Trek: ~18 km, Flight: ~138 km −2,110 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m → 1,330 m)
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Island Peak and Kyajo Ri Combo Expedition concludes — 22 days, two summits, and a technical progression through the Khumbu that very few climbers experience in a single trip.

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

Quick facts: Island Peak (Imja Tse): 6,189m | Kyajo Ri: 6,186m | Khumbu region | Total expedition: approx. 28–32 days | Best season: spring & autumn | Combined grade: moderate to technical

 

Why This Combination?

 

Island Peak and Kyajo Ri are a natural pairing for climbers who want to progress through two contrasting styles of 6,000m climbing in a single trip. Island Peak, with its glacier crossing and fixed-rope headwall, provides an excellent technical warm-up and builds the acclimatisation base needed to attempt Kyajo Ri — a peak that demands real mixed climbing confidence on steep snow, ice, and rock above 5,800m. Together, they form a progression that genuinely prepares climbers for bigger and more committing objectives in the future.

 

Overview

 

The expedition typically begins with the classic Everest Base Camp approach through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Dingboche, giving climbers time to acclimatise at progressively higher altitudes before either peak is attempted. Island Peak is usually climbed first, combining naturally with or immediately following the EBC trek, before the team repositions to the Gokyo Valley and the Thame-Gokyo corridor for Kyajo Ri. Spending time at both 5,400m (Island Peak high camp) and 5,600m (Kyajo Ri Camp 2) before each summit push means the body is well-prepared for the demands of each.

 

Route & Character

 

Island Peak's route crosses a crevassed glacier field before climbing a steep fixed-rope headwall (crux at around 45–50°) and a final summit ridge. Kyajo Ri then steps up the challenge considerably: beyond a grassy spur and boulder approach to Camp 1, the Southwest Ridge steepens into mixed snow, ice, and rock pitches reaching 55–60°, requiring confident movement on varied terrain rather than just fixed-line jumar technique. The combination of these two climbing styles — fixed-rope glacier peak followed by mixed technical ridge — makes this combo one of the most educational and well-rounded experiences ACE offers in the 6,000m range.

 

Key Risks & Why They Matter

 

Cumulative fatigue across a long expedition: With two peaks separated by repositioning days and trekking, climbers spend 28–32 days operating at altitude — and it is the fatigue that builds up over weeks, not any single moment of danger, that most often affects decision-making and physical performance late in the trip. Pacing rest days and managing sleep at altitude are as important as the climbing days themselves.

Glacier crevasse hazards on Island Peak: The approach to Island Peak's headwall crosses a broken glacier where hidden crevasses can open beneath snow bridges, particularly later in the season when warmer temperatures thin the surface cover — teams rope together and follow the guide's exact line to manage this risk.

Steep mixed terrain on Kyajo Ri: After the more systematic fixed-rope experience of Island Peak, Kyajo Ri's upper mixed ground (rock, snow, and ice up to 60°) demands a confident switch in technique — climbers who have not trained on mixed terrain before the trip can find this section far more demanding than anticipated, even if Island Peak felt manageable.

Altitude sickness across both peaks: Both summits exceed 6,100m, and climbers spend significant time between 5,000–6,200m throughout the expedition. Even with a well-structured itinerary, Acute Mountain Sickness can develop if a rest day is skipped or a climber pushes through symptoms — guides monitor for this carefully and are empowered to slow the team if needed.

Weather windows across multiple summit attempts: Needing two separate summit-ready weather windows — one per peak — increases the chance that at least one attempt will face marginal conditions. The expedition is structured with contingency days to absorb delays, but a prolonged unsettled spell can compress the schedule significantly, which is why travel insurance covering delays and rescheduling is strongly advised.

 

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

Equipment List

This is a 22-day expedition with sustained time above 5,000m and a summit push to 6,186m on technical alpine terrain. Every item on this list should be tested before departure — especially footwear and layering systems. Kyajo Ri's upper ridge demands gear that performs in cold, exposed conditions above 5,700m.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • Balaclava or thin face mask

  • UV-protective sunglasses — category 4 recommended

  • Ski goggles with UV protection and anti-fog system — essential for the upper ridge on Kyajo Ri

 

Handwear

  • Thin liner gloves

  • Fleece or wool mid-layer gloves

  • Gore-Tex or waterproof insulated outer gloves

  • Down mittens — recommended for Kyajo Ri summit push

 

Clothing

  • Expedition-quality down jacket with hood

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex jacket

  • Waterproof Gore-Tex over-trousers

  • Fleece jacket or softshell mid-layer

  • Fleece or insulated trousers

  • Thermal base layer — top and bottom

  • Moisture-wicking base layer tops (2–3)

  • Light hiking trousers for the trek

 

Footwear

  • High-altitude mountaineering boots — required for Island Peak and Kyajo Ri

  • Trekking boots for the approach and lodge stages

  • Camp shoes or light slippers

  • Warm mountaineering socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Snow gaiters

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • UIAA-approved climbing helmet

  • Sit harness

  • Ascender (jumar) — essential for Island Peak headwall and Kyajo Ri fixed sections

  • Descending device (ATC guide or similar)

  • Locking carabiners (4 minimum)

  • Non-locking carabiners (2)

  • Ice axe — classic alpine type

  • Crampons compatible with mountaineering boots

  • Trekking poles

 

Sleeping Equipment

  • Sleeping bag rated to -20°C

  • Sleeping mat or Thermarest

  • Sleeping bag liner — recommended

 

Trekking & Camp Essentials

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2)

  • 1-litre thermos flask

  • Personal first aid kit

  • Trekking poles

  • Personal snacks and energy bars

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag and medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ and lip balm with UV protection

  • Hand sanitizer

  • Wet wipes and toilet paper

Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Island Peak climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Kyajo Ri climbing royalty and expedition permit fees
  • Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • TIMS (Trekkers' Information Management System) card
  • Garbage disposal and environmental management fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and comprehensive insurance
  • Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonuses, equipment, and full insurance
  • Porters to carry trekking and expedition gear at a 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • 4-star hotel accommodation in Kathmandu with daily breakfast (3 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation during all trekking phases
  • Single tent per member at Island Peak Base Camp and Kyajo Ri Base Camp
  • Dining tent and toilet tent at both base camps
  • High camp tents at all overnight camping stages above base camp
  • Domestic flights: Kathmandu to Lukla and return (both ways)
  • Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu — pick-up and drop-off
  • Welcome dinner on Day 01 in Kathmandu
  • Farewell dinner on the last evening in Kathmandu
  • Daily breakfast at 4-star hotel in Kathmandu
  • Full-board meals during all trekking and lodge phases
  • High-altitude food and snacks for members and guides at all high camps
  • Medical kit carried throughout the expedition
  • Satellite phone for emergency communication
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Not Included
  • × International airfare (to and from Kathmandu)
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu — meals outside of included welcome and farewell dinners and daily breakfasts
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Special drone permit fees
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From
€ 9,900
per person
  • → Group Expedition
  • → 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
  • → Well-Planned Itinerary
  • → Fixed Group Schedule
  • → Minimum 3 Participants
  • → Professionally Guided
  • → Excellent Value
  • → Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers
Book Standard
Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From
€ 14,500
per person
  • → Private Expedition
  • → 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • → Fully Tailored Itinerary
  • → Flexible Scheduling
  • → Premium Value
  • → Heli flight IN / OUT
  • → Premium, Personalized Experience
  • → Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience
Book Premium

FAQs

Yes — without exception. Comprehensive personal travel insurance including high-altitude rescue and medical evacuation coverage is mandatory for all participants. Your policy must cover technical mountaineering at altitudes above 6,186m and must include helicopter rescue. Our team carries a satellite phone and a full medical kit throughout the expedition, but personal insurance for emergency helicopter evacuation is a separate, non-negotiable requirement. This must be confirmed and documented before your departure for Nepal.

Summit
Elevation
N
ACE
Guiding Beyond The Summit
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

Verified Client Story
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

Verified Client Story
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
Verified Client Story
Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
Verified Client Story
Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026
Expedition Report

Chhuama IV First Ascent Report 2026

  In July 2026, a team from Alpinist Climber Expeditions climbed Chhuama IV, a 6,179-metre peak in the Mustang region of Nepal that no one had ever summited before. On 16 July, IFMGA Mountain Guide and Dynafit athlete Prakash Sherpa reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time, after teammate Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres from the summit because of dangerous rockfall. Six earlier permit teams had tried and failed to climb Chhuama IV. This was the seventh attempt, and it succeeded — making it the first recorded ascent of the mountain. This is the story of that expedition: how the team got to the mountain, what the route was actually like, and what happened during the final push to the summit.   About Alpinist Climber Expeditions Alpinist Climber Expeditions is a Nepal-based expedition company that has been running alpine-style expeditions in the Himalayan ranges of Nepal since 2021. The Chhuama IV climb fits the kind of objective the company tends to take on: a lesser-known peak, a small team, and a route that hadn't been fully worked out by anyone before them. Alpine-style climbing generally means moving with a small team and minimal fixed infrastructure on the mountain, relying on judgment and route-finding rather than large-scale siege tactics — and that approach mattered on Chhuama IV, where conditions changed quickly and decisions had to be made on the spot.   The Peak and Why This Expedition  Was Different Chhuama IV sits in the Mustang region of Nepal and stands 6,179 metres high. Before this expedition, six other permit teams had attempted the mountain. None of them reached the top. That history says something about the peak — this wasn't a case of nobody having tried. Climbers had gone up before, assessed the conditions, and turned back. Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team was the seventh group to hold a permit for Chhuama IV. Reaching the summit meant succeeding where six previous attempts hadn't, on a mountain with no established route and no prior summit to reference for conditions, timing, or line of ascent.   Preparing for the Expedition and the Approach  to Base Camp The trip began on 9 July 2026 with a drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara, followed the next day by the long drive from Pokhara to Jomsom. On 11 July, the team continued by road from Jomsom to Lo Manthang, the historic walled town in Upper Mustang. The team spent 12 July acclimatizing in Lo Manthang before moving on. On 13 July they drove from Lo Manthang to Nymdo, and on 14 July they trekked from Nymdo to Base Camp. The following day, 15 July, they moved up from Base Camp to Lower High Camp — the last stop before the summit attempt. This slower, staged approach — drive, acclimatize, drive again, then trek up in stages to Base Camp and Lower High Camp — gave the team time to adjust to altitude before the technical climbing began.   Climbing Conditions on Chhuama IV Once the team got onto the mountain itself, the terrain turned out to be the main obstacle. The route up Chhuama IV involved long stretches of loose, unstable rock, slopes that could shift underfoot, and frequent rockfall. In the upper sections, there were only limited safe options for where to actually put a route, which meant the team had to keep reassessing the terrain as they climbed rather than following a fixed line. Weather added another layer of difficulty. Conditions changed often during the expedition, and on the day chosen for the summit push, the team had only a short window of favourable weather to work with. That combination — unstable ground below and a narrow weather window above — shaped almost every decision made on summit day.   The Summit Push : 16 July 2026 The team began its summit push from Lower High Camp on 16 July 2026. From early on, the upper mountain was hazardous. Rockfall was continuous, and the loose terrain meant every section had to be evaluated as they went, not assumed safe because it had been climbed before. Barnaby Francis climbed with the team through this section but made the decision to turn back approximately 250 metres below the summit. The reason was straightforward: the rockfall and the state of the terrain above made continuing unsafe. It was a judgment call made in the moment, based on what was actually happening on the mountain rather than on how close the summit looked. From that point, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued alone. He worked through the difficult, unstable upper section and kept going where the conditions had stopped his teammate. This wasn't a case of pushing through recklessly — it reflects the kind of terrain assessment that comes with IFMGA-level guiding experience, where the decision to continue or turn back is made section by section.   Reaching the Summit Prakash Sherpa reached the summit of Chhuama IV, at 6,179 metres, at 3:21 PM Nepal Local Time on 16 July 2026. With six previous permit teams having failed to summit the mountain, this made Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team the first to do so. The expedition is recorded by the team as the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV — a first ascent of a Nepal peak that had resisted six prior attempts before this one succeeded. After the summit, the team descended back toward Lower High Camp on the same day.     The Team's Experience  and the Way Down The climbing team for this expedition was small: Barnaby Francis from the United Kingdom, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa, and Ngima Tashi Sherpa as supporter. On a mountain with unstable rock and shifting weather, decisions had to be made quickly and by people who knew the terrain — which is part of why Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue, both mattered as much as the summit itself. The descent and return followed a similarly staged plan to the approach. On 17 July, the team trekked roughly 2.5 hours down from Lower High Camp before driving on to Pokhara. On 18 July, they completed the trip with the drive from Pokhara back to Kathmandu.   What Made This First Ascent  Significant Chhuama IV wasn't an easy objective, and it wasn't an obscure line that simply hadn't attracted attention. Six permit teams before Alpinist Climber Expeditions had tried to climb it and hadn't succeeded, which points to real difficulty rather than a lack of interest. The loose rock, the rockfall, and the narrow weather windows on summit day were the actual obstacles that had stopped previous attempts — and they were still present for this expedition. What changed the outcome wasn't a shortcut around those conditions. Barnaby Francis's decision to turn back 250 metres from the top, made because the risk was too high, and Prakash Sherpa's decision to continue where conditions allowed it, together produced the first known summit of the mountain. Both decisions came from reading the same terrain and weather correctly.   Conclusion The Chhuama IV expedition, carried out by Alpinist Climber Expeditions in July 2026, resulted in the first recorded ascent of Chhuama IV 6,179-metre peak in Nepal's Mustang region — a mountain that had already turned back six permit teams before this one. On 16 July 2026, after Barnaby Francis turned back roughly 250 metres below the summit due to rockfall and unstable terrain, IFMGA Mountain Guide Prakash Sherpa continued and reached the top at 3:21 PM Nepal time. It wasn't a straightforward climb, and the notes from the expedition don't describe it as one. Loose rock, frequent rockfall, and a narrow weather window shaped nearly every part of the summit day. Given that history, reaching the summit of Chhuama IV for the first time is a meaningful outcome — one built on careful, terrain-by-terrain decision-making rather than a single dramatic push to the top.     #GuidingBeyondTheSummit  #Dynafit 

Aug 12, 2026 Read Article →
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