MERA PEAK EXPEDITION
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MERA PEAK EXPEDITION

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Duration
19 Days
altitude icon
Max Altitude
6,476m
group icon
Group Size
Max 2 - 4

Trip Summary

Mera Peak sits at the head of the Hinku Valley in the Solu-Khumbu district of eastern Nepal, within Makalu Barun National Park — one of the world's most biologically diverse protected areas. The park encompasses high-altitude glaciers, pristine river valleys, dense rhododendron and bamboo forest, and an extraordinary range of wildlife including snow leopards, red pandas, Himalayan black bears, musk deer, and over 400 bird species. The Mera Peak approach passes directly through this landscape — an experience that goes well beyond a standard mountain approach.

 

The peak has three summits: Mera North (6,476m), Mera Central (6,461m), and Mera South (6,065m). Our expedition targets Mera North, the true high point reached via the Southeast Ridge from High Camp at 5,800m. The route above Khare crosses the Mera La, a high glaciated col, before ascending through open glacier terrain to High Camp. The summit push from High Camp follows the Southeast Ridge in a long, steady ascent with some crevasse crossings and a steeper final push to the top.

 

The Hinku Valley approach begins south of Lukla, diverging from the main Everest trail and dropping into a quieter, wilder corridor that most trekkers never see. The route passes through Surke La, CholimKharka, and Kothe before reaching Khare — the last settlement before the glacier begins. This approach is longer and more varied than the helicopter option used in the Luxury package, and many climbers find the full trek-in experience a deeply satisfying and important part of the expedition.

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
19 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,476m
Summit of MERA PEAK EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 2 - 4
Small team support
Region
Region
Hinku Valley
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
Trip overview background

Trip Description

Mera Peak (6,476m) is Nepal's highest trekking peak and one of the most sought-after first Himalayan climbing objectives in the world. From its summit, five of the world's ten highest mountains are visible at once — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga, a panorama that stops people in their tracks and stays with them for the rest of their lives.

 

Classified Alpine Grade PD (Peu Difficile) Mera Peak is a moderate climb that does not demand the sustained technical expertise of peaks like Ama Dablam or Cholatse, but it is far from straightforward. The summit sits at 6,476m and the summit day is long, cold, and physically demanding. Proper acclimatization, good cardiovascular fitness, and basic mountaineering skills, crampons, ice axe, glacier travel are all required. The mountain was first summited in 1953 by Colonel Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing, and has remained one of Nepal's most celebrated climbing objectives ever since.

 

The standard Mera Peak Expedition follows the classic approach through the remote Hinku Valley, a route that takes you deep into the Solu-Khumbu region through Sherpa and Rai villages, ancient forest corridors, and the stunning biodiversity of the Makalu Barun National Park. This is not a heavily commercialized route. The Hinku Valley is quieter and less travelled than the Khumbu, and the journey through it is a genuine part of what makes the Mera Peak experience so complete.

 

At Alpinist Climber Expeditions, every Mera Peak expedition is guided by IFMGA-certified professionals with deep knowledge of this route and this mountain. Our 19-day itinerary includes two structured acclimatization stages, a dedicated technical training day at Khare, and a built-in contingency day in the summit window, giving the team the best possible platform for a safe and successful summit.

 

Expedition Highlights

 

  • Nepal's highest trekking peak — one of the finest first high-altitude objectives in the Himalaya

  • Five 8,000-metre peaks visible simultaneously from the summit: Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga

  • Remote Hinku Valley approach — far less crowded than the main Khumbu corridor

  • Diverse and ecologically rich terrain through Makalu Barun National Park

  • Dedicated technical training day at Khare before the summit push

  • Standard full-trek return — the complete Mera Peak experience from approach to descent

  • Option for 1:1 private summit experience alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

 

Detailed Itinerary

Your expedition representative meets you at Tribhuvan International Airport and transfers you to your hotel. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — an informal introduction to the team, the guide, and the journey that begins tomorrow.

Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

A full expedition briefing in the morning covers the route, safety protocols, equipment checks, and permit formalities. You receive your Alpinist Climber Expeditions duffel bag and cap at the team meeting. The afternoon is spent visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu — temples, stupas, and Newari courtyard architecture that provide a meaningful cultural start to the expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 5–10 km (city tour) Minimal
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

An early departure from Kathmandu by private jeep. The drive takes approximately seven to eight hours through the Nepali countryside, offering views of terraced farmland, river valleys, and distant peaks including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, and Mera Peak itself on a clear day. Overnight at a local lodge in Patale Danda.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
8–10 hrs ~210 km +1,670 m (1,330 m → 3,000 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,000m

Continuing by jeep through rugged mountain roads — the terrain becomes more remote and the road more demanding as the vehicle descends into the Solu-Khumbu foothills. Brief stops in local villages for tea and lunch provide a first real encounter with the traditional life of this part of Nepal. Overnight at a local lodge in Bung.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~70 km −1,200 m (3,000 m → 1,800 m)
Lodge
Location icon 1,800m

The trek begins early from Bung. The trail climbs through rhododendron and pine forest toward Surke La, passing through the Sherpa village of Khiraule for a lunch break. With luck, wildlife including red pandas, musk deer, and Himalayan black bears inhabit this forest corridor. A briefing for the following day's activities is held over dinner at the lodge.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~13 km +1,230 m (1,800 m → 3,030 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,030m

From Surke La, the trail descends and climbs through dense forest where the biodiversity of Makalu Barun National Park is most apparent. The environment transitions from subtropical forest to more alpine terrain as the altitude rises. CholimKharka is reached after a full day of forest trekking — one of the most ecologically vivid sections of the entire approach.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~10 km +570 m (3,030 m → 3,600 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,600m

The trail steepens considerably today as it climbs above the tree line into rocky, exposed alpine terrain. The highest point of the day reaches approximately 4,500m before the path descends to Kholakharka. En route, the Panch Pokhari — a series of sacred glacial lakes — are visible from the trail. A long but rewarding day with expanding high-altitude views throughout.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~9 km +600 m (3,600 m → 4,200 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,200m

The route descends steeply through forest and across a river valley to Kothe — a small settlement at the entrance to the upper Hinku Valley. The national park permit and climbing permit checkpoint is located here. Kothe sits in a dramatic river setting surrounded by dense vegetation. The first views of Mera Peak's outline begin to appear from the upper sections of this day's trail.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~10 km −600 m (4,200 m → 3,600 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,600m

Leaving Kothe, the trail follows the Hinku Khola upstream through open valley terrain with yak grazing grounds and a traditional Buddhist monastery visible from the path. The Mera Peak massif grows larger with every step and surrounding 6,000-metre peaks begin to appear in all directions. Thangnak provides a comfortable overnight stop with excellent mountain views.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~13 km +758 m (3,600 m → 4,358 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,358m

The final approach to Khare — Mera Peak's Base Camp settlement — follows the rocky valley floor through dramatic high-altitude scenery. Khare sits beneath the Mera La at 4,900m, with single private rooms and hot shower facilities available at the lodge. This is the team's home for the next three nights, and the gateway to the technical climbing phase of the expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~7 km +542 m (4,358 m → 4,900 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,900m

A structured rest and acclimatization day. The body is adapting rapidly to 4,900m and a day of relative rest — with a short hike above the lodge if conditions are good — significantly improves the quality of the acclimatization before training begins tomorrow. Hydration and nutrition are the priorities throughout the day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 4–6 km +300–500 m (optional hike, return to Khare)
Lodge
Location icon 4,900m

The team ascends to the Mera La (5,415m) for a structured technical training session in the actual terrain of the climb. The session covers crampon technique on glacier ice, ice axe use and self-arrest, fixed rope technique with jumar, and safe movement on crevassed glacier. Training at 5,415m in real terrain is the most effective preparation possible for the summit day. The team descends to Khare for the night, having gained critical acclimatization at altitude.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~8 km +515 m (4,900 m → 5,415 m, return to Khare)
Lodge
Location icon 5,415m

From Khare, the route crosses the Mera La and ascends the open glacier to High Camp at 5,800m — one of the most celebrated viewpoints in the Everest region. Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu, Baruntse, Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse all fill the horizon from this perch. Equipment is checked, a hot meal is prepared, and the team rests as early as possible in preparation for the pre-dawn summit start.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~6 km +900 m (4,900 m → 5,800 m)
Camp
Location icon 5,800m

Summit day begins at approximately 2:30am. Moving by headlamp, the team dresses carefully, takes a light breakfast, and begins the ascent of the Southeast Ridge. The route climbs through open glacier terrain with some crevasse crossings that require confident rope and crampon technique. A steeper section leads to the base of the summit cone, where the angle increases before easing onto the broad summit plateau of Mera North at 6,476 metres.

 

From the summit, five 8,000-metre peaks are visible simultaneously — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga — spread across the horizon alongside Pumori, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Chamlang, and dozens of other peaks. The descent returns to High Camp and then all the way down to Khare for the night.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–14 hrs ~12 km +676 m (5,800 m → 6,476 m, then descend to 4,900 m)
Lodge
Location icon 6,476m

A reserve day for weather flexibility. If conditions prevented a safe summit on Day 14, today provides a second opportunity. If the summit was reached, this becomes a well-earned rest day at Khare before the return trek begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Lodge
Location icon 4,900m

The return trek begins through the Hinku Valley. The trail back to Kothe is familiar — seen now through the perspective of a completed summit. The drop in altitude brings a welcome return of energy and appetite.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~20 km −1,300 m (4,900 m → 3,600 m)
Lodge
Location icon 3,600m

The trail ascends from Kothe through juniper and rhododendron forest toward Thulikharka — the high camp before the Zatrwa La Pass that leads back to Lukla on the final trekking day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~14 km +700 m (3,600 m → 4,300 m)
Lodge
Location icon 4,300m

An early start for the crossing of the Zatrwa La Pass (4,600m) before the trail descends to Lukla. From Lukla, an early flight returns the team to Kathmandu. The evening closes with a farewell dinner — a celebration of the summit and the journey through one of Nepal's finest and most remote valley approaches.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs trek + 35 min flight Trek: ~12 km, Flight: ~138 km −2,970 m (4,300 m → 2,860 m → 1,330 m)
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Private airport transfer is arranged for your outbound flight. The Mera Peak Expedition concludes — with the summit, the Hinku Valley, and the five 8,000-metre peaks clearly in memory.

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 



The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Trip Notes

Quick facts: 6,476m | Hinku Valley, Khumbu region | Best season: spring (Mar–May) & autumn (Oct–Dec) | Graded PD (Peu Difficile) – non-technical but physically demanding

 

Overview

 

As Nepal’s highest trekking peak, Mera Peak is often chosen as a first major Himalayan summit. The approach through the quiet Hinku Valley avoids the crowds of the main Everest trail, and the reward at the top is extraordinary: views of five of the world’s six highest mountains, including Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga.

 

Route & Character

 

Unlike Nepal’s technical peaks, Mera doesn’t demand advanced rope or ice skills — the climb is essentially a long, steady glacier walk from high camp (around 5,750m) to the summit. What makes it challenging is sustained high-altitude exposure: climbers typically spend four or more days at or above 5,000m, and the summit day itself is an 8–12 hour round trip on snow and ice in thin air.

 

Key Risks & Why They Matter

 

Prolonged high-altitude exposure: Because the itinerary keeps climbers above 5,000m for several days in a row, the cumulative strain on the body is significant even without technical difficulty — this is the single biggest reason climbers are advised to have prior experience above 4,000m before attempting Mera.

Altitude sickness: At nearly half the oxygen level of sea level, headaches, nausea, and fatigue are common; in more serious cases this can progress to HAPE or HACE, which is why the itinerary builds in acclimatisation days and why guides carry oxygen and medical kits as a precaution.

Long, tiring summit day: There’s no single difficult technical move on Mera, but the sheer length of the glacier slog to the summit and back means simple physical exhaustion — not technical failure — is the most common reason climbers turn back before the top.

Crevasses and minor glacier hazards: The final approach crosses glaciated terrain with marked but real crevasse risk, particularly later in the season as snow cover thins; climbers rope up and follow flagged routes to stay on safe ground.

 

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

Equipment List

All personal clothing and climbing gear should be sourced, fitted, and tested before departure. Do not bring equipment you have not already used in the field.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • UV-protective sunglasses (category 4 recommended)

  • Buff or thin balaclava / face mask

 

Handwear

  • Lightweight fleece or wool inner gloves

  • Gore-Tex outer mitten gloves

 

Clothing

  • Gore-Tex waterproof jacket

  • Gore-Tex waterproof trousers

  • Hiking trousers

  • Fleece jacket or warm mid-layer

  • Moisture-wicking base layer top

  • Thermal base layer trousers

  • Down jacket with hood

 

Footwear

  • Well broken-in trekking boots

  • Double-insulated alpine climbing boots

  • Crampons compatible with alpine boots

  • Snow gaiters

  • Trekking socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Camp sandals

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • Ice axe

  • Sit harness

  • Locking carabiners and belay device

  • Ascender (jumar)

  • Climbing helmet

 

Camping & Trekking Essentials

  • Sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2)

  • Thermos flask

  • Trekking poles

  • Personal first aid kit

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag

  • Medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ including lip balm

  • Hand sanitizer and handwash

  • Toilet paper and wet wipes

Includes background

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • Mera Peak climbing royalty fees
  • Makalu Barun National Park permit
  • TIMS card
  • Garbage disposal and environmental fees
  • All government taxes, VAT, and official tourism service charges
  • IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and insurance
  • Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonus, insurance, equipment
  • Porters at 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with daily breakfast, welcome dinner, and farewell dinner (2 nights)
  • Full-board lodge accommodation throughout the trekking approach and descent
  • Single private room at Khare lodge with hot shower
  • High-altitude camp food for members and guides during the climbing phase
  • Round-trip Kathmandu to Lukla mountain flight
  • Private jeep — Kathmandu to Patale Danda and return from Lukla
  • Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu
  • High Camp tents shared between members and guides
  • Medical kit and satellite phone throughout
  • Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Not Included
  • × International airfare
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu outside of the included welcome and farewell dinners
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Drone permit fees (if applicable)
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From
€ 4,500
per person
  • → Group Expedition
  • → 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
  • → Well-Planned Itinerary
  • → Fixed Group Schedule
  • → Minimum 3 Participants
  • → Professionally Guided
  • → Excellent Value
  • → Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers
Book Standard
Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From
€ 6,600
per person
  • → Private Expedition
  • → 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • → Fully Tailored Itinerary
  • → Flexible Scheduling
  • → Premium Value
  • → Heli flight IN / OUT
  • → Premium, Personalized Experience
  • → Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience
Book Premium

FAQs

Mera Peak (6,476m) is Nepal's highest trekking peak, located in the Hinku Valley of the Solu-Khumbu district within Makalu Barun National Park. It is one of Nepal's most popular climbing objectives, renowned for its summit panorama of five 8,000-metre peaks — Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, and Kanchenjunga. The peak was first summited in 1953 by Colonel Jimmy Roberts and Sen Tenzing and has been a celebrated Himalayan objective ever since.

Summit
Elevation
N
ACE
Guiding Beyond The Summit
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

Verified Client Story
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

Verified Client Story
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
Verified Client Story
Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
Verified Client Story
Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
Cholatse Expedition Report 2022
Expedition Report

Cholatse Expedition Report 2022

  Two high camps, a 250m headwall, and a midnight departure into deep snow and crevasses — Cholatse doesn't give up its summit easily. This report picks up right after our team's successful climb of Kyajo Ri, as we turned toward one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu.   This is the story of our Cholatse expedition (6,440m): a trek through Gokyo and across the Ngozumpa Glacier to reach Dragnak, a two-camp summit push through crevasses and steep snow, and a hard-earned summit that made every bit of the effort worth it.   If you're researching Cholatse before booking your own Cholatse expedition package, this report also covers what most climbers ask us: how technical the route really is, what the two-camp system looks like, and what kind of experience you need before attempting it.   Expedition Overview •     Peak: Cholatse, 6,440 m (21,128 ft) •     Region: Khumbu Region, near Gokyo and Dragnak, Everest Region, Nepal •     Summit Date: 15 May 2022 •     Starting Point: Namche Bazaar, via Gokyo and Dragnak •     Route: Namche Bazaar → Gokyo → Dragnak (via the Ngozumpa Glacier) → Base Camp (4,700 m) → Camp 1 (5,600 m) → Camp 2 (5,850 m) → Summit •     Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff •     Weather: Warm and sunny during the base camp rest days, with a long, demanding summit night through deep snow   Cholatse is widely regarded as one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu, with sustained mixed rock, ice, and snow climbing that's often compared to Ama Dablam in difficulty. It's a serious step up from trekking peaks like Kyajo Ri or Lobuche East, which is exactly why our team climbed it directly after Kyajo Ri, using the acclimatization already built up to take on a harder, more committing objective.   Full Expedition Report   Recovery in Namche Bazaar After the successful summit of Kyajo Ri, we headed back to Namche Bazaar for two days to recover and get ready for Cholatse. It was a chance to rest properly before turning toward a much more technical objective.   Gokyo and the Climb to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) From Namche, we ascended to Gokyo, where we spent two days. Gokyo sits beside a large glacial lake, ringed by 6,000m peaks in every direction. We climbed up to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) for a panoramic view over the lake and the surrounding mountains which is one of the best viewpoints in the entire region.   Gokyo to Dragnak via the Ngozumpa Glacier Leaving Gokyo, we hiked to Dragnak, the last village before Cholatse base camp. Getting there means crossing a long glacier flowing down from Mount Cho Oyu — the Ngozumpa Glacier. Along the way we passed several glacier lakes in a striking light-blue color, and at the far end of the glacier, Cho Oyu filled the skyline. We reached Dragnak and spent the rest of the day on final preparations for the climb.   Dragnak to Cholatse Base Camp (4,700 m) The walk to base camp took about an hour and a half from Dragnak. Base camp sits at 4,700 m in a flat valley that yaks wander through during the day to graze on the fresh grass. Our staff welcomed us with hot tea and a good meal as soon as we arrived.   Rest at Base Camp We took two rest days at base camp, though we didn't need much extra acclimatization since we were already adjusted from the Kyajo Ri climb. The days were warm and sunny providing the team with good conditions to relax and prepare gear before the summit push.   Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,600 m) After two days of rest, we left base camp and the summit push began. Because the route to the top is long, we planned it around two camps. On the way to Camp 1 we crossed several crevasses before climbing a 250m headwall. Camp 1 turned out to be a comfortable spot, set on a ridge col.   Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,850 m) The next day we reached Camp 2 — small, exposed, but with a beautiful view in every direction. We rested for a few hours before heading out at midnight for the summit.   Summit Day (15 May 2022) The route from Camp 2 was long, with deep snow and numerous crevasses to negotiate through the night. We reached the summit of Cholatse in the morning, and after taking in the views, descended back to Camp 2 to sleep as the summit day had been long and genuinely tiring.   Return to Base Camp The next day we made it back down to base camp, where we celebrated our Cholatse summit. It had been a hard climb, but the views along the way made us forget about the effort it took to get there.   Challenges •     Multiple crevasse crossings on the way to Camp 1, requiring careful rope work •     A 250m headwall between base camp and Camp 1 •     A small, exposed Camp 2 (5,850 m) with only a few hours of rest before the summit push •     A long midnight summit push through deep snow and numerous crevasses •     A genuinely tiring summit day, requiring a recovery stop at Camp 2 before continuing the descent •     Tackling one of the Khumbu's more technical 6,000m peaks directly after a separate expedition on Kyajo Ri   Highlights •     The panoramic view from Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) over Gokyo Lake and the surrounding 6,000m peaks •     Crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier, with light-blue glacier lakes and Cho Oyu filling the skyline •     Yaks grazing beside base camp during warm, sunny rest days •     A comfortable Camp 1 set on a scenic ridge col •     Reaching the summit of Cholatse after a long, technical night climb •     Celebrating the summit back at base camp with the whole team   Safety Cholatse is not a peak that allows for shortcuts. Multiple crevasse crossings, a 250m headwall, and a long summit night through deep snow all demand careful, deliberate decision-making.   Having already acclimatized on Kyajo Ri gave the team a real advantage heading into Cholatse, reducing the extra rest needed at base camp and letting us focus on the technical demands of the route itself. Splitting the summit push across two camps (5,600 m and 5,850 m) kept the climb manageable, and resting at Camp 2 on the way down after a long summit day was an important call rather than pushing straight through to base camp.   As with every expedition we run, our IFMGA-certified guide and Sherpa climbing staff led the technical sections: the crevasse crossings, the headwall, and the roped travel through deep snow on summit night with safety as the deciding factor at every stage.   Conclusion Climbing Cholatse directly after Kyajo Ri pushed the team in a different way as this wasn't a technical trekking peak, but one of the more serious technical objectives in the Khumbu, with a long two-camp summit push through crevasses and deep snow. It was a hard climb from start to finish.   But the views from Gokyo Ri, across the Ngozumpa Glacier, and finally from the summit itself made the effort worth it. We're grateful for a safe climb, a strong team, and a mountain that earned every bit of our respect.   If a serious technical objective like Cholatse is on your list, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, well-guided climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming expeditions to see what's next.  

May 15, 2022 Read Article →
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