LOBUCHE EAST EXPEDITION
Home / LOBUCHE EAST EXPEDITION
medium

LOBUCHE EAST EXPEDITION

duration icon
Duration
19 Days
altitude icon
Max Altitude
6,119m
group icon
Group Size
Max 2 - 4
Trip Summary Trip Overview Trip Description Itinerary Equipment Gallery Pricing FAQs

Trip Summary

Lobuche East rises from the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier in the upper Khumbu Valley — a position that places it at the heart of the most celebrated trekking and climbing landscape in Nepal. At 6,119m, it is the higher of the two Lobuche summits: Lobuche West stands at 6,145m but is a significantly more technical and rarely-attempted objective. Lobuche East is the peak that the climbing world knows, respects, and returns to.

 

The standard approach to Lobuche East follows the South Ridge from a Base Camp near the village of Lobuche (4,940m). From the base, the route climbs through rocky moraine terrain before transitioning to snow and ice on the upper ridge. A 45-degree slope section near the summit is the technical crux — steep enough to demand real crampon and ice axe technique and to challenge the fitness of even well-prepared climbers. Fixed ropes are in place on this section. The summit is a narrow, exposed point with no room to spare.

 

The approach through the Khumbu valley is one of the world's great trekking journeys. The trail passes through Namche Bazaar, the Tengboche Monastery, Pangboche, and Pheriche, a sequence of landmarks that every climber who has ever dreamed of the Himalaya will recognize. Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, and Lobuche itself are in view throughout the approach, growing larger and more imposing with each day's progress.

 

Lobuche East is often used as a preparatory peak for more serious objectives. It is a natural progression from Mera Peak and Island Peak, and it is also frequently combined with an Everest Base Camp visit given their proximity on the same route. For climbers building toward Ama Dablam, Cholatse, or higher peaks, Lobuche East provides an excellent technical foundation.

At A Glance

Trip Overview

Duration
Duration
19 Days
Including travel days
Max altitude
Max Altitude
6,119m
Summit of LOBUCHE EAST EXPEDITION
Difficulty
Best Season
Spring & Autumn
Ideal climbing window
Group size
Group Size
Max 2 - 4
Small team support
Region
Region
Khumbu Region
Expedition location
Overview
Overview
Expedition
High-altitude guided climb
Book Now
Phone
Speak to an Expert
9843314253
Enquire Now
Trip overview background

Trip Description

Lobuche East (6,119m) is one of the most technically rewarding 6,000-metre climbs in Nepal's Khumbu region — a peak that sits close to the Everest Base Camp trail, yet demands a level of mountaineering commitment that goes well beyond the standard trekking experience. Positioned in the heart of the Mahalangur Himalayan Range, Lobuche East stands above the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier and commands views of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and Pumori — one of the most comprehensive panoramas available on any 6,000-metre summit in Nepal.

 

Rated Alpine Grade PD+ (just above moderate), Lobuche East is a step up in technical demand from peaks like Mera Peak and Island Peak. The South Ridge route involves sustained steep terrain with a defining 45-degree slope section near the summit that requires confident crampon technique, ice axe use, and fixed rope ascending. The summit day is long — typically ten to thirteen hours — and the final section is genuinely challenging even for fit, well-prepared climbers. This is a peak that rewards those who take their preparation seriously.

 

The approach follows the classic Khumbu trekking route from Lukla through Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, and Pheriche before reaching the Lobuche area — one of the most celebrated trekking corridors in the world, with expanding views of Everest and the surrounding Himalayan giants at every stage. An acclimatization hike to Nangkartshang (5,083m) from Pheriche and a dedicated technical training day at Lobuche Base Camp are both built into the itinerary before the summit push begins.

 

At Alpinist Climber Expeditions, every Lobuche East expedition is guided by IFMGA-certified professionals with real knowledge of this technical route. Our 1:3 guide-to-member ratio, combined with a 1:1 Climbing Sherpa ratio on summit day, reflects our belief that this kind of serious technical climbing deserves the highest level of personal support available.

 

Expedition Highlights

  • A serious technical 6,000m objective — more demanding than Island Peak or Mera Peak

  • The 45-degree final slope — the defining technical challenge of the South Ridge route

  • Positioned directly on the Everest Base Camp corridor — option to combine with an EBC visit

  • Summit panorama of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho Oyu, Nuptse, Ama Dablam, Cholatse, and Pumori

  • Acclimatization hike to Nangkartshang (5,083m) with some of the finest high-altitude views in the region

  • Technical training session at Lobuche Base Camp before the summit push

  • Option for 1:1 private summit experience alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa

Day by Day

Detailed Itinerary

Airport transfer and hotel check-in on arrival. The evening opens with a welcome dinner — a warm introduction to the team and the guide before the Khumbu journey begins.

Accommodation
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Full expedition briefing in the morning covering the route, safety protocols, equipment checks, and permit formalities. Duffel bag and cap distributed at the team meeting. The afternoon is spent visiting UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Kathmandu — temples, stupas, and Newari architectural landmarks.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day 5–10 km (city tour) Minimal
Accommodation
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Early mountain flight to Lukla with sweeping aerial views of the Himalayan range. On landing, the trek begins along the Dudh Koshi River valley through pine and rhododendron forest to Phakding — a gentle and beautiful opening day in the Khumbu.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
35 min flight + 3–4 hrs trek Flight: ~138 km, Trek: ~8 km −250 m (2,860 m → 2,610 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 2,610m

The trail crosses suspension bridges over the Dudh Koshi before entering the Sagarmatha National Park checkpoint at Monjo. A long, steep ascent through forest leads to Namche Bazaar — the first clear views of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam appearing on the final ridge. Namche is the Sherpa capital of the Khumbu — well supplied, lively, and the last significant settlement before the upper valley.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs ~10 km +830 m (2,610 m → 3,440 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

A structured acclimatization hike to the Everest View Hotel ridge at approximately 3,800m. The views of Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam from this ridge are exceptional. Climbing high and sleeping low at this stage significantly improves the body's adaptation to altitude before the higher terrain ahead.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 5–8 km +350–450 m (optional hike, return to Namche)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The trail descends through rhododendron forest before climbing to the ridge at the Tengboche Monastery — one of the most significant Buddhist monasteries in Nepal — with panoramic views of Ama Dablam, Everest, and the surrounding massif. After visiting the monastery, the trail descends to Diboche for the night.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~10 km +420 m (includes descent and ascent to 3,860m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 3,860m

The trail climbs above the valley floor through Pangboche — a traditional Sherpa village with one of the oldest monasteries in the Khumbu. From Pangboche, Ama Dablam and Lobuche East appear clearly ahead. The trail continues through open terrain to Pheriche, one of the last settled areas before the upper glacial valley begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~12 km +511 m (3,860 m → 4,371 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 4,371m

An acclimatization hike to the top of Nangkartshang (5,083m) — a two to three hour ascent providing a broad Himalayan panorama and an important physiological step at altitude. The team descends to Pheriche for the night, having gained critical acclimatization at 5,083m.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–6 hrs ~6 km +712 m (4,371 m → 5,083 m, return to Pheriche)
Accommodation
Hotel
Location icon 5,083m

The trail climbs past Duglha and its memorial stupa — erected in memory of those who have lost their lives on Everest and the surrounding peaks — before continuing to Lobuche village at 4,940m. The view of the Khumbu Glacier's lateral moraine and the peaks above is dramatic and imposing. Lobuche is the last settlement before the route to Everest Base Camp continues, and the staging point for the Lobuche Peak climb.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~8 km +569 m (4,371 m → 4,940 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 4,940m

A rest and acclimatization day at 4,940m. The body is making significant physiological adjustments at this altitude — rest, hydration, and regular eating are the priorities. A short exploratory walk above the village helps the body adapt without placing excessive demand on it.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–5 hrs (optional hike) 3–5 km +300–500 m (optional acclimatization hike)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 4,940m

A hands-on technical training session at Lobuche Base Camp covering all skills required for the South Ridge and the 45-degree summit slope: crampon technique on snow and ice, ice axe use and self-arrest, fixed rope technique with jumar, rappelling, and movement on exposed terrain. The 45-degree final section of this route is steeper than most other peaks at this grade — this training session directly addresses that specific challenge.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–6 hrs 2–4 km +100–200 m (training around Base Camp)
Accommodation
Camp
Location icon 4,940m

From Lobuche village, the team moves up to High Camp at 5,300m — approximately two to three hours of climbing through rocky moraine and the lower South Ridge. The camp is positioned with clear views of the summit route above and the Khumbu Valley below. Equipment is checked, a hot meal is prepared, and the team rests in preparation for the long summit day.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–6 hrs ~4 km +360 m (4,940 m → 5,300 m)
Accommodation
Camp
Location icon 5,300m

Summit day begins at 3:00am. Moving by headlamp through the darkness, the team ascends the South Ridge in progressively steeper terrain. The fixed rope sections begin on the upper ridge as the angle increases significantly. The crux — a steep 45-degree slope — demands confident crampon and ice axe technique and is the point at which proper training and fitness make the most difference.

 

The summit of Lobuche East is a narrow, exposed point with immediate views in every direction: Everest (8,849m), Lhotse (8,516m), Makalu (8,485m), Cho Oyu (8,188m), Nuptse (7,855m), Ama Dablam (6,812m), Cholatse (6,440m), and Pumori (7,161m) all visible from the top. The descent uses fixed ropes on the technical sections and returns to High Camp for a rest before the lower mountain descent.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
10–12 hrs ~8 km +819 m (5,300 m → 6,119 m, followed by descent to High Camp or Base Camp)
Accommodation
Camp
Location icon 6,119m

A reserve day built into every Lobuche East expedition. If poor weather prevented a safe summit on Day 13, the team attempts again today. If the summit was reached, this is a rest and recovery day before the full descent begins.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
Full Day Varies Varies
Accommodation
Camp
Location icon 5,300m

Full descent from High Camp to Pheriche — dropping over 900m from the high point. The Khumbu Valley opens up below as the team descends, and the views of the surrounding peaks feel different now — seen from below, with the summit already behind you.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
5–6 hrs ~10 km −929 m (5,300 m → 4,371 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 4,371m

The return trek through Pangboche and Diboche. Familiar terrain revisited with the different perspective of a completed expedition. The rhododendron forest below Pangboche is welcome after days of glaciated high terrain.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
3–4 hrs ~7 km −511 m (4,371 m → 3,860 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 3,860m

Continuing the descent through Tengboche and the rhododendron forest back to Namche Bazaar. The trail is well-known by now and the pace is comfortable — a pleasant final day in the mountains.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
4–5 hrs ~11 km −420 m (3,860 m → 3,440 m)
Accommodation
Lodge
Location icon 3,440m

The final trek follows the Dudh Koshi valley to Lukla for an early morning flight to Kathmandu. The farewell dinner in the evening marks the successful conclusion of a demanding and memorable expedition.

 

  Duration     Distance     Elevation  
6–7 hrs trek + 35 min flight Trek: ~18 km, Flight: ~138 km −2,110 m (3,440 m → 2,860 m → 1,330 m)
Accommodation
Hotel
Location icon 1,330m

Private airport transfer for your outbound flight. The Lobuche East Expedition concludes.

Our Difference

Why ACE?

Alpinist Climber Expeditions was built around a principle that has guided every climb we have organized — that the quality of the experience on a mountain is directly tied to the quality and depth of experience of the people leading it. What sets Alpinist Climber Expeditions apart is something that cannot be manufactured or replicated — it comes from decades spent on these mountains, from the culture that formed us, and from a deeply held belief that every climb deserves to be done properly.

 

We are a team of professional Sherpas. Not guides who have visited the Himalaya — guides who grew up here, who know these peaks in every season, and who have spent careers developing the technical skills and mountain judgment required to lead expeditions safely and successfully.

 

Our team holds IFMGA / UIAGM certification — the highest international standard in professional mountain guiding — alongside Advanced Mountaineering, Wilderness First Aid, Helicopter Rescue, and High-Altitude Rescue qualifications. Our lead guide has summited multiple 8,000-metre peaks, including ascents without supplemental oxygen. This is not a credential on paper. It is a lived capability that directly protects every climber who climbs with us.

 

We offer two expedition structures: a standard option with small-group expedition, and a premium option with 1:1 guide-to-client ratio. Both are built on the same standard of safety, preparation, and professionalism.The standard option maintains a minimum 1:3 guide-to-client ratio with a dedicated IFMGA lead guide and Sherpa support on every climb. Our premium 1:1 private option places you on the mountain directly alongside IFMGA Guide Mr. Prakash Sherpa.

 

We do not run high-volume operations as our clients are not bookings. They are climbers who have chosen to trust us with something significant and we take that trust seriously on every single expedition. We do not cut corners on acclimatization, staffing ratios, or safety equipment. We organize expeditions the way they should be organized — with patience, precision, and the kind of local knowledge that only comes from growing up in these mountains and spending a career on them.

 


The Team

Expedition Guides

Every guide on our team has been selected for their technical ability, high-altitude experience, and personal commitment to the safety and success of every climber they lead. All guides carry extensive experience at altitude and hold a proven record of safety, summit success, and strong compatibility with international clients.

The number of guides assigned to each expedition is determined by the size of the climbing team. Our standard guide-to-member ratio is 1:3, ensuring that every climber receives consistent, attentive support throughout the approach, the acclimatization phase, and the technical climb itself.

 

Climbing Sherpa Support

A dedicated team of experienced Climbing Sherpas supports every expedition with load carrying on the mountain, route preparation, and high camp management. On summit day, we maintain a 1:1 Sherpa-to-climber ratio — a commitment that reflects our belief that the summit push is where support matters most.

Our Climbing Sherpas are not simply load carriers. They are experienced high-altitude professionals who understand the mountain, the route, and the demands of summit day. Their presence alongside every climber on the final push is a core part of how we manage safety and success on the upper mountain.

 

What to Expect from Our Team

  • Technically qualified, IFMGA-certified lead guidance on every expedition
  • A standard guide-to-member ratio of 1:3 — adjusted based on team size and peak requirements
  • 1:1 Climbing Sherpa support on summit day for every team member
  • Guides who are experienced, companionable, and genuinely invested in your success
  • Full medical kit, satellite communication, and emergency response capability carried by the team at all times
  • A premium 1:1 private option available — summit alongside Mr. Prakash Sherpa directly

 

 

Essential Information

Trip Notes

Quick facts: 6,119m | Khumbu region, adjoining the Everest Base Camp trail | Best season: spring & autumn | Graded PD+ – moderately technical

 

Overview

 

Lobuche East is one of the most popular peaks in the Khumbu, often paired with the Everest Base Camp trek since the route overlaps almost entirely. It’s frequently used by climbers preparing for bigger objectives like Everest or Ama Dablam, offering a genuine taste of technical climbing without the full commitment of a major expedition.

 

Route & Character

 

After following the classic EBC trail through Namche, Tengboche, and Dingboche, the route branches to Lobuche base camp (around 4,950m) and a high camp near 5,400m. Summit day climbs a steepening snow-and-ice slope reaching 45–50° near the top, protected by fixed ropes, before a narrow final ridge leads to the summit — noticeably more technical than nearby Island Peak.

 

Key Risks & Why They Matter

 

Steep fixed-rope sections near the summit: The final 45–50° ice and snow slope requires confident use of crampons, ice axe, and jumar technique on the fixed line; climbers without this experience can tire quickly or struggle with the exposure, which is why basic rope training is built into the itinerary.

Crevasses and glacier travel: Parts of the approach and summit route cross glaciated terrain where crevasses can be masked by snow, particularly earlier or later in the climbing season — roped travel and following the guide’s exact line are essential precautions.

Altitude sickness: Base and high camp both sit well above 4,900m, and the summit climbs over 6,000m, so the standard risks of headache, fatigue, and more serious altitude illness apply; the itinerary’s acclimatisation days exist specifically to reduce this risk before the technical climbing begins.

Long, physically taxing summit day: The round trip from high camp can take 8–10 hours over difficult terrain, so climbers who haven’t trained adequately for sustained effort at altitude are more likely to struggle on the descent, when fatigue-related mistakes are most common.

 

Note: All ACE expeditions are subject to the unpredictable conditions of the Himalaya. Weather at altitude can change within hours, and your safety always takes priority over the fixed schedule — if trails become unsafe, snow conditions deteriorate, or flights to remote airstrips are delayed by poor visibility or wind, we will adjust the itinerary, reroute, or arrange alternative transport as needed. These changes are made solely to protect you, and our guides will ensure the spirit and quality of your expedition is never compromised. ACE is not liable for costs arising from missed international flights due to such delays, so we strongly recommend comprehensive travel insurance covering trip interruption, flight disruption, and emergency evacuation before you travel.

What To Bring

Equipment List

All personal clothing and technical climbing gear should be sourced, properly fitted, and tested before departure. The 45-degree summit section and technical descent demand well-fitted, well-tested boots and crampons above all else.

 

Headwear

  • Sun hat or lightweight cap

  • Warm fleece or wool hat

  • UV-protective sunglasses (category 4 recommended)

  • Buff or thin balaclava / face mask

 

Handwear

  • Lightweight fleece or wool inner gloves

  • Gore-Tex outer mitten gloves

 

Clothing

  • Gore-Tex waterproof jacket

  • Gore-Tex waterproof trousers

  • Hiking trousers

  • Fleece jacket or warm mid-layer

  • Moisture-wicking base layer top

  • Thermal base layer trousers

  • Down jacket with hood

 

Footwear

  • Well broken-in trekking boots

  • Double-insulated alpine climbing boots

  • Crampons — 12-point, compatible with alpine boots

  • Snow gaiters

  • Trekking socks (4–5 pairs)

  • Camp sandals

 

Technical Climbing Equipment

  • Ice axe

  • Sit harness

  • Locking carabiners and belay device

  • Ascender (jumar)

  • Climbing helmet

 

Camping & Trekking Essentials

  • Sleeping bag rated to at least -20°C

  • 45-litre rucksack with rain cover

  • Large duffel bag with padlock

  • Headlamp with spare batteries

  • 1-litre water bottles (x2)

  • Thermos flask

  • Trekking poles

  • Personal first aid kit

 

Hygiene & Sun Protection

  • Waterproof wash bag

  • Medium towel

  • Toiletries — soap, toothbrush, toothpaste

  • Sunscreen SPF 50+ including lip balm

  • Hand sanitizer and handwash

  • Toilet paper and wet wipes

Upcoming Departure Dates

Background
October 15 - 3 November, 2026
Standard Package
Includes background
What's Covered

Includes & Excludes

Included
  • ✓ Lobuche East climbing royalty fees
  • ✓ Summit route fixing fees
  • ✓ Sagarmatha National Park entry permit
  • ✓ TIMS card
  • ✓ Garbage disposal and environmental fees
  • ✓ All government taxes, VAT, and official service charges
  • ✓ IFMGA-certified lead mountain guide — full wages and insurance
  • ✓ Experienced Climbing Sherpa support — wages, summit bonus, insurance, equipment
  • ✓ Porters at 1:1 member-to-porter ratio
  • ✓ All staff accommodation, wages, equipment, insurance, and medical provisions
  • ✓ 4-star hotel in Kathmandu with daily breakfast, welcome dinner, and farewell dinner (2 nights)
  • ✓ Full-board lodge accommodation throughout the trekking approach and descent
  • ✓ Single private dome tent at Base Camp with hot shower
  • ✓ High-altitude camp food for all members and guides during the climbing phase
  • ✓ Round-trip Kathmandu to Lukla mountain flight
  • ✓ Private vehicle airport transfers in Kathmandu
  • ✓ High Camp tents shared between members and guides
  • ✓ Medical kit and satellite phone throughout the expedition
  • ✓ Alpinist Climber Expeditions branded duffel bag, cap, and T-shirt per member
Not Included
  • × International airfare
  • × Nepal entry visa fees
  • × Lunches and dinners in Kathmandu outside of the included welcome and farewell dinners
  • × Alcoholic and soft beverages
  • × Internet and WiFi access
  • × Personal clothing and climbing equipment
  • × Personal first aid kit
  • × Drone permit fees (if applicable)
  • × Personal travel, medical, and emergency rescue insurance
  • × Gratuities for guides, Climbing Sherpa, and porters
Personalised Guidance

1:1 Experience with Your Lead Guide

Lead Guide

Prakash Sherpa

Founder & IFMGA Mountain Guide

Our lead guide Prakash Sherpa oversees expedition strategy, pacing, and on-mountain decision-making so your climb is supported from preparation through summit push.

You get direct access to experienced guidance, real-time judgement in changing conditions, and a more focused expedition experience built around safety, clarity, and strong leadership.

Certification
IFMGA / UIAGM / IVBV
View Profile ENQUIRE
Choose Your Experience

Package Options

Standard

An expertly guided group expedition offering an affordable, memorable way to attempt stunning peaks alongside fellow adventurers.

Starting From
€ 4,500
per person
  • → Group Expedition
  • → 1:1 Climbing Sherpa Guide
  • → Well-Planned Itinerary
  • → Fixed Group Schedule
  • → Minimum 3 Participants
  • → Professionally Guided
  • → Excellent Value
  • → Best for Budget-conscious Adventurers
Book Standard
Premium

A fully personalized, private expedition with 1:1 IFMGA guiding — designed around your goals, pace, and schedule for an exclusive mountain experience.

Starting From
€ 7,500
per person
  • → Private Expedition
  • → 1:1 Private IFMGA Mountain Guide
  • → Fully Tailored Itinerary
  • → Flexible Scheduling
  • → Premium Value
  • → Heli flight IN / OUT
  • → Premium, Personalized Experience
  • → Best for Adventurers Seeking a Personalized, Exclusive Experience
Book Premium
Common Questions

FAQs

Lobuche East is rated Alpine Grade PD+ — slightly above moderate and a genuine step up in technical demand from Mera Peak or Island Peak. The South Ridge involves sustained steep terrain with a defining 45-degree slope section near the summit that demands confident crampon and ice axe technique on fixed ropes. The summit day runs ten to thirteen hours. Good cardiovascular fitness, prior altitude experience, and commitment to the technical training session at Base Camp are all essential.

Summit
Elevation ∞
N
6000M 7000M 8000M
ACE
Guiding Beyond The Summit
Client Stories

From the Summit

Daniel Puttkemery
Daniel Puttkemery
Kyajo Ri Expedition
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

Prakash and his team are a couple of notches above totally professional! Everyone in the Alpinist Climber Expeditions family goes out of their way to provide the best possible experience. Superb core values and safety principles. I had the good fortune of climbing Kyajo Ri with Alpinist Climber Expeditions and I can not say enough positive things. All gear is first rate, exceptional food and beautiful base camp in particular. I have climbed with a few different outfits in the past, now I need look no further, whenever I’m in the Himalaya. I will only climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions. It sounds cliche but they very much made me feel like family. Top marks to a top outfit!

”
Verified Client Story
Luca Smargiasso
Luca Smargiasso
Ama Dablam 6,812m
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“

I have been climbing for 15 years, over 4 continents. This was my 3rd trip to Nepal. And this was undoubtedly one of the Best-organised expeditions have participated in. Cannot thank Prakash and his Team enough. The attention to detail both in terms of equipment, climbing conditions, and accommodation/food was outstanding. And despite having limited exposure to high altitude alpine style climbing, always felt comfortable in the climbs and approach. I put this down to Prakash and his experience as well as the unique approach to team size. The small team ensures that a more flexible and sensible approach is applied to all technical aspects of the climb-including importantly how you physically feel and acclimatise. I needed to spend 5 days at Namche due to a sinus infection, and never felt that this jeopardised the rest of my climb. The same goes for weather delays. I eventually overran the climbing calendar by 5 days without a single complaint from Prakash and his team. You feel like a climbing partner rather than a paying client. My only regret is that Alpinist Climber Expeditions does not have a more international footprint as would have liked to climb with Prakash and his Team internationally as well as in Nepal.

”
Verified Client Story
Andy Tronsberg
Andy Tronsberg
Kyajo Ri & Island Peak
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“Perfect organised and guided expedition I ever took part! We climbed island peak and kyajo ri alpine style! Safety is always first, all team members are super kind and professional and also laughing comes not to short! Thanks for this unforgettable experience!! Andreas.

”
Verified Client Story
Rogier Keulen
Rogier Keulen
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“With IFMGA guide Prakash we climbed Kyajo Ri and Cholatse. Our expedition couldn't have been any better! We had a lot of fun and summiting stunning Cholatse is the most intense thing I've done. We did it alpine style, so without fixed ropes from bottom to top. Safety was a priority - Prakash summited Everest 3 times and is always in control - and we had a very strong drive to reach the summit - which we did!”
Verified Client Story
Ludwig Beer
Ludwig Beer
Baruntse 7,162m + Mera Peak 6,476m
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“Vielen Dank lieber Pemba für die tolle Zeit. Deine Professionalität und stete Fürsorge waren allgegenwärtig. Die gute Planung, der Ablauf und die gute Stimmung waren großartig. Mit Dir und Deinem Team fühlt man sich wohl am Berg. Dadurch ist der Erfolg gesichert!”
Verified Client Story
Christiaan Jong
Christiaan Jong
Mt. Kyajo Ri & Mt. Cholatse
5/5 Rating
★★★★★
“The Kyajo Ri and Cholatse climbing expedition I did with Alpinist Climber Expeditions was great! Our guide Prakash is a very strong and professional guide.
We share our values regarding alpine-style climbing and succeeded on both summits in a very safe manner.
Apart from the climbing, the whole team was super supportive, helpful, and friendly. Nothing was too much to ask.
For future expeditions or other endeavors in the mountains, I would definitely reach out to Alpinist Climber Expeditions again.”
Verified Client Story
Expedition Journal

Dispatches from the Mountains

All Articles
Cholatse Expedition Report 2022
Expedition Report

Cholatse Expedition Report 2022

  Two high camps, a 250m headwall, and a midnight departure into deep snow and crevasses — Cholatse doesn't give up its summit easily. This report picks up right after our team's successful climb of Kyajo Ri, as we turned toward one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu.   This is the story of our Cholatse expedition (6,440m): a trek through Gokyo and across the Ngozumpa Glacier to reach Dragnak, a two-camp summit push through crevasses and steep snow, and a hard-earned summit that made every bit of the effort worth it.   If you're researching Cholatse before booking your own Cholatse expedition package, this report also covers what most climbers ask us: how technical the route really is, what the two-camp system looks like, and what kind of experience you need before attempting it.   Expedition Overview •     Peak: Cholatse, 6,440 m (21,128 ft) •     Region: Khumbu Region, near Gokyo and Dragnak, Everest Region, Nepal •     Summit Date: 15 May 2022 •     Starting Point: Namche Bazaar, via Gokyo and Dragnak •     Route: Namche Bazaar → Gokyo → Dragnak (via the Ngozumpa Glacier) → Base Camp (4,700 m) → Camp 1 (5,600 m) → Camp 2 (5,850 m) → Summit •     Guiding: Led by an IFMGA-certified mountain guide from Alpinist Climber Expeditions, supported by our climbing Sherpa staff •     Weather: Warm and sunny during the base camp rest days, with a long, demanding summit night through deep snow   Cholatse is widely regarded as one of the most technical 6,000m peaks in the Khumbu, with sustained mixed rock, ice, and snow climbing that's often compared to Ama Dablam in difficulty. It's a serious step up from trekking peaks like Kyajo Ri or Lobuche East, which is exactly why our team climbed it directly after Kyajo Ri, using the acclimatization already built up to take on a harder, more committing objective.   Full Expedition Report   Recovery in Namche Bazaar After the successful summit of Kyajo Ri, we headed back to Namche Bazaar for two days to recover and get ready for Cholatse. It was a chance to rest properly before turning toward a much more technical objective.   Gokyo and the Climb to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) From Namche, we ascended to Gokyo, where we spent two days. Gokyo sits beside a large glacial lake, ringed by 6,000m peaks in every direction. We climbed up to Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) for a panoramic view over the lake and the surrounding mountains which is one of the best viewpoints in the entire region.   Gokyo to Dragnak via the Ngozumpa Glacier Leaving Gokyo, we hiked to Dragnak, the last village before Cholatse base camp. Getting there means crossing a long glacier flowing down from Mount Cho Oyu — the Ngozumpa Glacier. Along the way we passed several glacier lakes in a striking light-blue color, and at the far end of the glacier, Cho Oyu filled the skyline. We reached Dragnak and spent the rest of the day on final preparations for the climb.   Dragnak to Cholatse Base Camp (4,700 m) The walk to base camp took about an hour and a half from Dragnak. Base camp sits at 4,700 m in a flat valley that yaks wander through during the day to graze on the fresh grass. Our staff welcomed us with hot tea and a good meal as soon as we arrived.   Rest at Base Camp We took two rest days at base camp, though we didn't need much extra acclimatization since we were already adjusted from the Kyajo Ri climb. The days were warm and sunny providing the team with good conditions to relax and prepare gear before the summit push.   Base Camp to Camp 1 (5,600 m) After two days of rest, we left base camp and the summit push began. Because the route to the top is long, we planned it around two camps. On the way to Camp 1 we crossed several crevasses before climbing a 250m headwall. Camp 1 turned out to be a comfortable spot, set on a ridge col.   Camp 1 to Camp 2 (5,850 m) The next day we reached Camp 2 — small, exposed, but with a beautiful view in every direction. We rested for a few hours before heading out at midnight for the summit.   Summit Day (15 May 2022) The route from Camp 2 was long, with deep snow and numerous crevasses to negotiate through the night. We reached the summit of Cholatse in the morning, and after taking in the views, descended back to Camp 2 to sleep as the summit day had been long and genuinely tiring.   Return to Base Camp The next day we made it back down to base camp, where we celebrated our Cholatse summit. It had been a hard climb, but the views along the way made us forget about the effort it took to get there.   Challenges •     Multiple crevasse crossings on the way to Camp 1, requiring careful rope work •     A 250m headwall between base camp and Camp 1 •     A small, exposed Camp 2 (5,850 m) with only a few hours of rest before the summit push •     A long midnight summit push through deep snow and numerous crevasses •     A genuinely tiring summit day, requiring a recovery stop at Camp 2 before continuing the descent •     Tackling one of the Khumbu's more technical 6,000m peaks directly after a separate expedition on Kyajo Ri   Highlights •     The panoramic view from Gokyo Ri (5,357 m) over Gokyo Lake and the surrounding 6,000m peaks •     Crossing the Ngozumpa Glacier, with light-blue glacier lakes and Cho Oyu filling the skyline •     Yaks grazing beside base camp during warm, sunny rest days •     A comfortable Camp 1 set on a scenic ridge col •     Reaching the summit of Cholatse after a long, technical night climb •     Celebrating the summit back at base camp with the whole team   Safety Cholatse is not a peak that allows for shortcuts. Multiple crevasse crossings, a 250m headwall, and a long summit night through deep snow all demand careful, deliberate decision-making.   Having already acclimatized on Kyajo Ri gave the team a real advantage heading into Cholatse, reducing the extra rest needed at base camp and letting us focus on the technical demands of the route itself. Splitting the summit push across two camps (5,600 m and 5,850 m) kept the climb manageable, and resting at Camp 2 on the way down after a long summit day was an important call rather than pushing straight through to base camp.   As with every expedition we run, our IFMGA-certified guide and Sherpa climbing staff led the technical sections: the crevasse crossings, the headwall, and the roped travel through deep snow on summit night with safety as the deciding factor at every stage.   Conclusion Climbing Cholatse directly after Kyajo Ri pushed the team in a different way as this wasn't a technical trekking peak, but one of the more serious technical objectives in the Khumbu, with a long two-camp summit push through crevasses and deep snow. It was a hard climb from start to finish.   But the views from Gokyo Ri, across the Ngozumpa Glacier, and finally from the summit itself made the effort worth it. We're grateful for a safe climb, a strong team, and a mountain that earned every bit of our respect.   If a serious technical objective like Cholatse is on your list, we'd be glad to help you plan a safe, well-guided climb with Alpinist Climber Expeditions — explore our upcoming expeditions to see what's next.  

May 15, 2022 Read Article →
Stay Connected

Never Miss a
Summit Moment

Expedition updates, new package launches, travel tips, and dispatches from Nepal's highest peaks — delivered directly to your inbox.

No spam. Unsubscribe anytime.