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            Mera Peak Ski Expedition: A Guided Climb and Ski Descent of Nepal's Highest Trekking Peak
        

Mera Peak Ski Expedition: A Guided Climb and Ski Descent of Nepal's Highest Trekking Peak

In November 2022, two teams from Alpinist Climber Expeditions climbed Mera Peak (6,476m) as part of a ski expedition. One team skied down from the summit using Base Camp only; the other followed the standard route via High Camp. Both teams reached the summit safely.

This report covers the trek in from Sotang, the acclimatization stops along the way, and the two different routes the teams took to the top.

Expedition Overview

• Peak: Mera Peak (6,476m)

• Region: Hinku Valley, Makalu Barun National Park, Solukhumbu District, Nepal

• Summit date: 14 November 2022

• Starting point: Kathmandu, with a 12-hour jeep drive to Sotang

• Route: Sotang → a Sherpa village at 2,000m → high pass acclimatization (~4,500m) → Panch Pokhari → Kholakharka → Khote (3,600m) → Tangnag → Khare (4,900m) → Mera Peak summit, via two different routes

• Guiding: Led by Alpinist Climber Expeditions' team, with an experienced, professional mountain guide

• Style: Two teams — one completed a ski ascent and descent using Base Camp only; the other used the standard High Camp route

• Outcome: Both teams reached the summit safely; the ski team continued on toward Baruntse Base Camp afterward

Full Expedition Report

Day 1: Kathmandu to Sotang

The trip began with a 12-hour jeep drive from Kathmandu to Sotang, starting at 4 a.m. The drive included stops in cultural villages along the way, with views of rural life away from the city.

Day 2: Sotang to a Sherpa Village (2,000m)

From Sotang, the team hiked four hours through a remote jungle trail used mainly by local people, to a Sherpa village at 2,000 metres, where they spent the night.

Day 3: Village Rest and On to the Next Village

The next day included a short tour of the village and a nearby monastery before the team continued toward the next village. The trail passed through rhododendron forest and past waterfalls coming down from the hillside.

Day 4: Acclimatization at the High Pass (4,500m)

As part of the acclimatization plan, the team hiked up to a high pass at around 4,500 metres and then slept lower, at 4,200 metres, a standard technique for adjusting to altitude.

Day 5: Panch Pokhari to Kholakharka

Past the high pass, the trail led through Panch Pokhari, five glacial lakes considered holy in the area. After a short break, the team continued to a lodge in a small valley called Kholakharka.

Day 6: Kholakharka to Khote (3,600m)

From Kholakharka, the route to Khote started with an hour-long ascent, followed by a steep descent through the jungle. Low cloud settled over the valley as the team walked down toward the Inkhu Khola river, which they crossed by bridge before reaching Khote in the afternoon. From Khote, the team had clear views of Mera Peak at night.

Days 7–8: Acclimatizing in Khote

The team spent two nights in Khote to acclimatize and rest before continuing higher.

Day 9: Khote to Tangnag

The walk from Khote to Tangnag followed the river through forest and moraine terrain, gaining about 700 metres in elevation on a gradual trail with no steep sections. The team arrived in Tangnag late in the morning, with more snow-covered peaks coming into view.

Day 10: Tangnag to Khare (4,900m)

After breakfast, the team continued to Khare, the last lodge before the higher camps and the final stop before the Mera Peak ascent. The afternoon was spent checking and preparing ski and climbing equipment for the days ahead.

Days 11–12: Acclimatizing in Khare

The team spent two days in Khare to acclimatize before moving higher.

The Ski Team: Base Camp to Summit

One team continued to Mera Peak Base Camp (5,300m), skipping High Camp: since the plan was a faster ski ascent and descent, Base Camp served as a better staging point. After further acclimatizing and preparing a summit plan at Base Camp, the team had dinner around 6 p.m. and went to sleep early to save energy. They woke at 1 a.m., had porridge and hot tea, and left Base Camp at around 2 a.m. for the summit.|

The climb involved a steady, sustained elevation gain. The team reached the summit of Mera Peak (6,476m) and, after enjoying the view, skied back down to Khare, arriving after a few hours. After resting, they continued on toward Baruntse Base Camp, the next stage of the trip.

The Second Team: High Camp to Summit

A second group left Khare a day later and followed the standard route, spending the night at High Camp (5,800m). Climbing at night, the team saw a bright meteor streak across the sky and managed to photograph it. After a few hours of climbing, the second team also reached the summit of Mera Peak.

Challenges

• The 12-hour jeep drive from Kathmandu to Sotang to begin the trip

• A long acclimatization sequence — a high pass at 4,500m, sleeping lower at 4,200m, and further rest stops at Khote and Khare — before the summit push

• A steady, sustained elevation gain on the final push to the summit, particularly for the ski team's faster Base Camp-only ascent

• Skiing a technical descent from 6,476m after a demanding summit push

• Early, cold starts (1 a.m. wake-ups) for both teams' summit pushes

Highlights

• Cultural stops in rural villages on the drive from Kathmandu to Sotang

• A remote jungle trail to a Sherpa village at 2,000m

• Rhododendron forest and waterfalls on the trail to the next village

• Panch Pokhari's five holy lakes

• Clear night views of Mera Peak from Khote

• A ski descent from the 6,476m summit

• A bright meteor spotted and photographed by the second team during their night climb

• Both teams reaching the summit safely

Safety

The trip's acclimatization plan followed a staged approach: a high pass ascent followed by a lower sleeping altitude, two nights in Khote, and two more days in Khare before the summit push. The two teams also split into different routes suited to their plans — the ski team used Base Camp only for a faster ascent and descent, while the second team took the standard route via High Camp.

Both teams summited and returned safely, with the notes crediting an experienced, professional guide for keeping the climb safe throughout.

Conclusion

This Mera Peak expedition combined a standard guided route with a ski descent, run as two teams with different plans suited to their goals. Both teams reached the 6,476m summit safely, and the ski team's descent, along with the second team's meteor sighting from High Camp, made for two distinct accounts of the same mountain.

Mera Peak's mix of manageable technical difficulty and big-mountain views is why the notes describe it as suitable for both beginners and advanced climbers, provided the climb is guided by an experienced, professional mountain guide. Alpinist Climber Expeditions has been leading guided climbs, and ski expeditions, on Mera Peak since 2021.

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